Please Critique my Firewood!

[Steve Schlumpf]

This is a piece of cherry that for whatever reason continually develops radial cracks while turning. I had hoped to make a nice looking hollow form out of it … but it makes for some really nice looking firewood! This is my second attempt at this form (had radial cracks in the first one also - both from same log) and in the hopes that I (we) can learn - I ask for critiques on the form.

74010

It's 7" from the foot to the lip, 4" at the mid-section and the foot and the lip are matched at 2 1/2".

Thanks in advance for your input!

[TYLER WOOD]

I love the form, as for the cracking?????? Sorry no help here. I personally love the classical/ancient amphora shape to things

[Neal Addy]

Very nice! That's an ambitious form to try!

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g73/addylo/Smileys/thumb.gif

[Jeff Bower]

Steve, if you can't get the HF to work out, maybe a small lamp?:p

[Randy Privett]

Steve,

I really like the form, but cherry is a burger at times. I have sprayed cherry off and on with water while turning it to keep it moist. It just doesn't like any heat. I'd say go ahead and finish it and let it go where it wants to. It would be good practice and you will always learn something.

Randy

[Paul Andrews]

Steve,

You did a great job with the form. Not sure how bad the cracks are from the photo, but why not work with what you are presented with. Incorporate the cracks into the piece by filing with a contrasting color embossing powder or inlay material. I have used black on cracks in cherry and it looks sharp.

[Glenn Clabo]

Steve,

I really like the form, but cherry is a burger at times.
Randy

I like mine with onions and cheese.:D
Sorry...it's been a loooonnnng day.

[Brodie Brickey]

Steve,

Great form. I'm not sure from looking at it. Was this end grain turned?

Your shape was very well done, especially the curve off the 'shoulders'.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Thanks Brodie! This is an endgrain piece and that probably has a lot to do with the cracks.

[Jim Kountz]

Steve, really a great job there, I wish I was that advanced with my turning but its coming slowly. Since you asked specifically about the form heres my two cents for what its worth. I would lop that sucker off at the line Ive drawn on the picture there. I really love the upper shape but that base Im not sure about. Again just my thoughts, and also again really a great job. You're a braver man than I am!!

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Jim. Steve if it were me I would cut that bottom piece off. That would be one sharp piece when finished. Fill the cracks with epoxy and coffee grounds. It is a dark color so would enhance it. I think if you did that you could save it. I really like the upper part of your form. Well done.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jim & Bernie - the line you have drawn is where the bottom is supposed to be - the rest is just an extension of the tenon. As mentioned I was turning it to form when I heard the ping and found the crack. I removed it from the lathe as I had no desire to go thru the CA routine again as I had with the first version. Still... I may put it back on the lathe and give it a shot and hopefully it doesn't blow up on me.

[Jim Kountz]

I can relate, was turning some purple heart this evening when I heard a loud noise and the next thing I knew a piece about the size of my thumb went flying across the shop. Kinda makes one a little nervous eh!

[Allen Neighbors]

Steve, if you were turning it and heard the wood crack, I think the crack is more than likely from heat checking. If you were sanding hard or fast, or really hogging wood, it would cause enough heat to crack. It is possible even for the metallic wheels on some steady-rests to cause enough heat to crack. Cherry wood is like a young lamb... just looking for a reason to die. It's beautiful, but difficult wood to turn.
I love the form and grain on this piece! You really did a bang-up job on it. Firewood it ain't.
I'd follow Paul's suggestion if it were mine. On cracks, I use Maryland Club (cheapest coffee) that I've run through a Vita-Mix (fancy blender) forward and backwards, to make it almost like talcum powder. One coat rubbed on, of 25%Lacquer/75%Thinner will keep the CA from staining the surrounding wood. Little CA in the cracks, quick wipe off the excess with a paper towel, and rub the coffee across the crack. Repeat as necessary 'til the crack is level or above level full. Finish off with another coat of CA and a wipe. Sand and finish.
Just my .02 :)

[Mike A. Smith]

Steve, I think the form is absolutely dead-on! LOVE the curves! Hang in there and even if you don't get the cherry to work out I'd like to see you finish one of these out even if you have to change species.

(I'm saving this picture anyway for a form to try when I'm good enough)

[Joe DeFazio]

Hi Steve,


I like the form - so sorry that it's cracking....

Looking at the way a near-continuous band of grain (the space demarcated by one annular ring) wraps around the form's largest point, I got to wondering if the form includes the pith. It kind of looks like it might from the way the annular rings are cut through at the smaller diameters also.

If the form contains the pith, that's likely a major cause of your radial cracking (not necessarily the only cause). Maybe I'm reading the grain wrong, but that's my guess. Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know.

Now I'll go even further out on a limb (sorry - unintentional pun), and say that if the turning does indeed contain the pith and you want to save it, you might try immersing it in or brushing on several heavy coats of PEG.

Good luck,

Joe

[Steve Schlumpf]

Took everyone's advice and finished the vase and was surprised that it did not crack again.

Had a guy in our turning club turn a large vase out of Northfork Pine and he had left the pith in it. It did crack but only on the bottom as the rest of the pith had been removed during the hollowing process. I had hoped to do the same and figured that if it cracked on the bottom center - fill with coffee grounds and CA.

Here's the result of running the lathe at a very slow speed to help keep the heat down. Comments/critiques are always wecome.

74068

Only finish at this time is a single coat of Watco Natural.

Thanks for looking.

[Bob Hallowell]

Steve that really turned out nice!

[Randy Privett]

Steve,

That came out great. sometimes you have to keep on keeping on. Nice work.

Randy

[Cyril Griesbach]

Wow! That did turn out nice. Well done!

[Ed Scolforo]

Steve, I'm happy that you followed through on this one. It's really a very pleasing form. Good work!
Ed

[Mike A. Smith]

That's a beauty!

[Dennis Peacock]

I like mine with onions and cheese.:D
Sorry...it's been a loooonnnng day.

THANKS Glenn...!!!! Now I'm "really" hungry!!!!!! :rolleyes: :D

[Dennis Peacock]

Very nice one there Steve!!!!!!!!

Most excellent there sir!!!!! :cool: :cool:

[Pete Jordan]

Excellent Steve!

I like everything about it!

[Barbara Gill]

The only crack I can see is the one on the side. It is along a growth ring, not across as a radial crack would be. Cherry often gets ring shake for a variety of reasons. Here is Eastern VA shake in Cherry is a real problem. It can be caused by an isolated incident during a year(drought, fire, etc.) or it can affect the whole log rendering the wood unfit and dangerous to use.

[Skip Spaulding]

Looks great to me, I think I'd give Allen's advice a try, it wouldn't be going into my stove just yet!

[Allen Neighbors]

I should have added to my post, that putting the lacquer wash on it will not keep you from using an oil finish if you want to. The lacquer wash just seals on the surface enough to keep the CA from staining near the crack. Then when you finish sanding, the wash has no affect on the oil absorption into the wood.

[Bob Hallowell]

Allen love the lacquer trick I will be using that on, I use the coffee grounds but normally on small cracks I like black ca. I use it all the time

Bob

[Steve Schlumpf]

Allen - thanks for the lacquer tip - never heard of that one before and will have to give it a try!