Paste Wax Recommendations

[Mac Cambra]

I am looking for recommendations on paste wax.

I am looking for wax for use on my wood projects not for rust protection.

[Lance Norris]

Briwax is a good one.

[glenn bradley]

I keep a couple cans of Johnson's with 'TOOLS' felt penned on one and "WOOD" felt penned on the other. For tools, I just wipe it on with whatever is handy. For wood I make a stack of about 4" square pieces of material like so;

1 layer of old t-shirt or other lint free cotton cloth.
2 or 3 layers of cheese cloth.

I put a blob of wax in the middle and bring the corners together (t-shirt is the outer layer). The cheese cloth allows a good even flow of wax to be squeezed out into the t-shirt material that, in turn, conveys it to the surface. When it starts to get used up just open it like a flower and drop another blob into the middle of the cheese cloth and pull the corners together again.

[Mark Singer]

I like Briwax and have used it often on bare wood with excellent results

[Anchor Sarslow]

I guess I am in on this question too. Any thoughts on Minwax pastewax?

[Glenn Madsen]

There's three colors, including clear, of Briwax on the shelf.

There's a can of Butcher's.

One of Liberon's.

And one of something else, maybe Trewax or Johnson's, that came in a box of old tools from my grandfather's place, after he passed on, before I started working wood.

Some's harder, some softer. The Briwax stinks the most, but looks pretty good, and cleans up old crud better because of the toluene in it. My California shop vents pretty well, particularly with the garage door open.

The stuff is cheap, and there's several decades supply out there right now. Experiment some.

[John Bush]

I just rubbed in my first coat of Seafin Teak Oil(Daly's) on a Morris chair made of purple heart that is reddish/brown, not purple, with 400 wet/dry. I plan on 5 or 6 applications ending with 600 w/d. Previous projects done the same way resulted in a nice patina that seems to last a long time, but this thread has me wondering if a final wax and buffing would be of any advantage. Thanks, John.

[Mac Cambra]

That brings up another question regarding application, how many use steel wool versus some other non abrasive applicator?

I have been using Briwax, my first can was clear and the second can was dark brown/amber, didn't see any indication on the can?

I guess the primary point of my question was is there any advantage using the more expensive waxes over the cheaper Johnson's or Minwax products?

[Bill Wyko]

I've had great luck with Minwax IMHO:)

[David Weaver]

I've been using minwax on my tools because it was available at the borg, but just picked up briwax because I understand it dries much faster. I hate waiting for the minwax to haze.

[Jared Cuneo]

Liberon or Renaissance (the most pricey).....

JC

[Rick Thom]

Ckeck out FWW-#191 (June '07). A good article on wax and the different types and brands available.

[Howard Acheson]

Let me make one point about Briwax. The "Original" uses toluene as its solvent/thinner. Toluene can damage oil based finishes less than a year old and it will almost immediately damage waterborne finishes. It is primarily a restoration wax and the toluene is an excellent cleaner for old wood and finishes.

They also make a Briwax 2000 which, like most other waxes, uses mineral spirits as it's solvent/thinner. It will not damage any finishes nor is it a significant health hazard.

Finally, and in general, most furniture paste waxes are very similar. Some are softer (more thinner is added), some are mixtures of waxes but all work pretty much the same. The differences are in the marketing not in the performance. I have used Simonize, Trewax, Minwax, Butchers and currently use Johnson Wax. I have not really noticed any difference either for furniture or for tool tabletops.

[Warren Clemans]

Renaissance. Costs a little bit up front, but I'm still on my first tin after 5 or 6 years. Works out to about a buck a year. Less? Spoil yourself!