How to join these bed rails....

[Jared Cuneo]

Anyone have any ideas how they constructed this bed:

THANKS!

JC

[James Phillips]

Buy bed hardware from Rockler

[Mark Singer]

It is probably the standard bed hardware. My son, Ran and I made a bed that is posted on SMC using it.

[Mark Singer]

It is probably the standard bed hardware. My son, Ran and I made a bed that is posted on SMC using it.

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15099&highlight=ryans+bed

[Jared Cuneo]

Are the clips strong enough for a California king of this size?

Also, any ideas on the headboard construction?

JC

[Jason Tuinstra]

Jared,

Having used standard bed hardware before, I prefer using bed bolts - or their hardware store equivalent. I found them easy to install and very, very sturdy.

Here is a link to a bed I recently finished using bed bolts: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=65010

[Jared Cuneo]

Thanks Jason, would I need 2 per joint, since these appear to be "paneled" bed rails?

JC

[Jason Tuinstra]

Jared,

No, one bed bolt is all you need per joint at the footboard and headboard. Here's another link if you want to seem some more detailed pics: http://www.timothyclark.com/b_assembly.htm

[Charles Wiggins]

Jared,

The manufacturer of the beds you pictured probably used standard bed hooks on the rails that hook over metal pins inside slots in the HB & FB like these from Rockler. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5289 All-in-all, I'd go with something like Jason is proposing, maybe combining a mortise & tenon system with a bed bolt - but I tend to overbuild everything.
(http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5289)

[Jason Tuinstra]

Jared,

The manufacturer of the beds you pictured probably used standard bed hooks on the rails that hook over metal pins inside slots in the HB & FB like these from Rockler. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5289 All-in-all, I'd go with something like Jason is proposing, maybe combining a mortise & tenon system with a bed bolt - but I tend to overbuild everything.
(http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5289)

Charles, you're right about the combined mortise and tenon and bed bolt. I ended up using dowels as it's quick and easy, but you can go with a more traditional mortise and tenon. I wouldn't recommend just bed bolts.

[Chris Foley]

Under the specifications Tab of the Rockler part, you will see the following....



We suggest these hooks be used for replacement only, not used on new construction.

[Jared Cuneo]

I may have to make a trip to PB since the 'panel' portion of these rails do not appear to have the thickness to support a bed bolt in the center....?

JC

[Jeremy Chisholm]

Put it in the end of the bottom part of the rail- the "frame" of the rail should be of at least 6/4 material, especially for an extra-long Cali King. Then put a 3/4 dowel in end of the top part of the "frame" to maintain vertical orientation/keep it from twisting under load. If your rails are good'n square the joint should be plenty tight with just one bolt at each corner.

[Jake Helmboldt]

I may have to make a trip to PB since the 'panel' portion of these rails do not appear to have the thickness to support a bed bolt in the center....?

JC

Jared, the bed bolt doesn't go in the paneled foot/headboard. They run through the leg, into the bed rail, pulling the foot/head board tight to the rails (and mortise/tennon or dowels align and add strength to the joint.

The legs are attached to the paneled head/footboard typically with traditional joinery (mortise and tennon). There is a Taunton book on making beds that shows things in detail; buy a copy or check one out at the library.

[Jared Cuneo]

I have that book Jake, and yes, M&T for the head and footboard, but my main issue centers around the way the side rails are constructed and attached.

Take a gander at the pic, there looks like two 8/4 rails with a panel sitting in dados. Is the panel glued in there? If it is 2 rail beams per side, then would I not need 4 bolts? if that panel is ply (probably for seasonal stability) it would seem to need 4 bolts or at least the 3/4 dowel on the alternate (upper or lower) rail....

[Jason Tuinstra]

I have that book Jake, and yes, M&T for the head and footboard, but my main issue centers around the way the side rails are constructed and attached.

Take a gander at the pic, there looks like two 8/4 rails with a panel sitting in dados. Is the panel glued in there? If it is 2 rail beams per side, then would I not need 4 bolts? if that panel is ply (probably for seasonal stability) it would seem to need 4 bolts or at least the 3/4 dowel on the alternate (upper or lower) rail....

Jared, I know the question isn't directed to me, but I get what you're asking now - I didn't take a close look at the rail, just the footboard. I see now that the "rail" has a panel in it as well - my bad. My question would be, do you really want that look? I'd stick to a simple 8/4 rail - bob's your uncle. If not, then I'd build a frame in which I would encase the piece of plywood, put a mortise on the end and still run one bed bolt or you could use the other joining option. I have to admit though, I haven't thought it through that well so if you go that route, give some more thought. I don't know how much strength you'd have with a panel rail. Anyway, just my .02.

[Charles Wiggins]

Anyone have any ideas how they constructed this bed:

THANKS!

JC

Jared,

You might want to consider one of these:

http://www.vandykes.com/product/02284211/[/URL]

http://www.vandykes.com/product/02007080/ (http://www.vandykes.com/product/02010515/)

[URL]http://www.vandykes.com/product/02005992/

http://www.vandykes.com/product/02010516/

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10230

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10

They'd be a whole lot easier to align than contemporary bed hooks like the ones I posted the other day.

[Jared Cuneo]

Thanks for the responses thus far....very helpful.

I do kind of like the paneled rail look, but just not sure about the construction. I may have to actually go to Pottery Barn and inspect one....maybe that center panel is thick enough.....

JC

[Jake Helmboldt]

I'll reiterate Jason's comment - "my bad". I didn't catch the rail design.

But I think Jason also hit on something else; strength of a paneled rail. My guess is that the rail is much thicker and isn't an actual panel. You could replicate it with an applied trim made from the same stock. Glueline would be virtually invisible.

Maybe someone else will come up with something. As for looking at the bed in person, remember that a lot of the furniture in the "high end" catalogs is low-end furniture that might not be replicable in your shop w/ real wood.