OK - time for a splitter

[Dave Bonde]

Last night I had a kickback while cutting a 36"X18" piece of 1/2 “ MDF in half. I currently do not have a splitter but that is about to change. My question is what splitter have you used that you really like. I have a Powermatic PM66 and use the saw often for cutting dados so would want a splitter that can be easily removed. Am I better off with a commercial setup like the Biesemeyer (or other) or should I make one. Thanks for your thoughts. Dave

[Tom Veatch]

...use the saw often for cutting dados so would want a splitter that can be easily removed...

My first thought would be to build a zero clearance insert and incorporate a splitter in that insert. Easily removed since it would come off with the insert - which will have to be swapped out anyway to use the dado head.

[Mark Carlson]

Dave,

I started with one of those little plastic Micro splitters and then bought a Shark Guard which comes with 3 different sized splitters and a blade guard with a dust collection port. I like the Shark Guard a lot and would get that again.

~mark

[Cary Falk]

I put a Biesemeyer Snap-In Spreader on my new "old" Unisaw after never using anything on my contractor saw. I love it and wonder why I didn't do it sooner.

[Steve Kohn]

I also have the PM66. I installed the Shark Guard.

Worked for me, however the knob provided with the Shark Guard would not work with my saw. The Shark Guard was provided with a male knob, my saw required a female. It cost me about $4 to buy the correct knob.

Note, the PM66 Shark Guard will not work if you have to set the blade to anything other than 90 degree cut.

[Dave MacArthur]

I also have a PM66 with no current splitter (besides what came with the saw, which is off). Interested in this thread, and I'd love to see any pictures of what folks consider "the best" setup for a PM66 both for safety and dust collection. I could only find a small cheap snap in splitter at Rockler, and am not satisfied with it.

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a Merlin splitter and an Excalibur overarm guard.......Rod.

[Kevin Groenke]

I presume the kickback didn't result in injury since you didn't give the gory details, consider yourself fortunate.

I don't know if they're available for the 66, but the pop-up Beismeyers that we had on our unisaws worked pretty well, the downside was that they usually got pushed down and didn't come back up. Kickback was a way too common occurrence.

Since we've gotten saws with well designed, integrated riving knives, kickback has all but seized to exist (still happens occasionally w/really light material like foam). The beauty of the riving knife it that it is almost never in the way, it just sits there and does what it's supposed to do. Of course a riving knife isn't easily retrofitted.

Were you ripping or crosscutting that 18"x36" piece of stock? If you were x-cutting, I can picture how this happened. It may be time to make that crosscutting sled you've been thinking about as well.

-kg

[Dave Bonde]

Yes Kevin I was crosscutting - have done it 1000's of times over the years. To be honest I'm not sure what happened, I was through the cut and moving around the saw I don't know if I pushed the part back into the blade with the other part or what but wack it flew back at an angle and hit me in the forearm just above the wrist. I thought it broke my arm at the time and still have pain from the fingers to the elbow but could have been worse, I had a sweatshirt on that had to have helped cousion the blow - I keep thinking "what if it had hit me in the face"

[Jim Becker]

When I had my Jet cabinet saw, I used the Biesemeyer snap-in splitter and it was great. Highly recommended.

[Michael Lutz]

I have a biesmeyer splitter on my PM66. I actually use it a fair amount of the time. It snaps in easily, but it requires you to take off the insert and pull a knob to release the splitter.

I am still figureing out what to use for a guard with dust collection.

Mike

[Larry Fox]

When I had my Jet cabinet saw, I used the Biesemeyer snap-in splitter and it was great. Highly recommended.


Ditto here (only on a Uni).

[frank shic]

i'll add another vote for the sharkguard and the splitters. lee styrone does a magnificent job even though it takes about two months to receive it.

[Norman Hitt]

PM-66 with a Biesemeyer Splitter. Takes less than 5 seconds to pop out the insert, pull the knob and pull out the splitter. It can be used at all Blade angles, (If you remember to make a slot in the insert for the splitter to tilt).:D

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Just curious:
How'd ya get a kick back on MDF~? The stuff doesn't close up on the cut it is very dead material.

Only guess I can hazard is a bit of binding a'tween the rip and the blade.

[Gary Keedwell]

I have been kind of lax myself with getting a splitter. I know I'll get spanked for saying this but alot of times I use wood wedges I have hanging around and manually put them in the kerf when my stock gets past the blade.:rolleyes: I can see everybodies eyes roll :rolleyes: I know it is not a good method but I do have my Board Buddies now and I can stop feeding my stock without the danger of kickback because the rollers on my Board Buddies only spin in one direction.
OK....You can attack me now..........:o
Gary

[Brian Ross]

Splitters are a bit over rated in my world. Kick back can be caused by a number of reasons and in my case it was not having the rip fence adjusted properly. I have a Unifence and I was having to adjust it every couple of months as it would always move with far end angling towards the blade. I put lock tite on the screw threads and have not had to adjust it for a couple of years. I have suffered the effects of Kick back but in each case I was rushing and not paying attention to what I was doing. I think the best safety feature we have is to pay attention to what you are doing and use your Brain.
Brian

[Gary Keedwell]

Actually, now that I'm more awake, I put the wedge in so that the kerf stays open so I get a better finish on my stock rather then worrying too much about kickback. I hate the finish marks you get when the wood rubs against the blade.:)
Gary

[David Weaver]

I use the little MJ splitter. You can use anything that you can put in your insert that is about the width of the kerf.

The MJ is set up so you can move the splitter farther from the cut line, or closer, by a few thousandths - depending on how much pressure you want the splitter to exert in the direction of the fence.

I also use the grip-tite system if I'm going to be making a bunch of similar (especially if narrow) cuts.

I, too, didn't get into any splitters until I had a kickback event - and that was also off a 5hp PM66 - plenty of power to launch anything into orbit (or into my waistline).

[Keith Starosta]

Guys, I have a Powermatic 64A contractors saw. Would the Biesemeyer snap-in splitter work with this unit? Yesterday, I actually had a pretty serious kick-back incident with a 30" long piece of 2x4 I was trying to rip in half. Luckily, the only damage that was done was the dent in the drywall behind me....about 18 feet away!! :eek:

Thanks.

- Keith

[Dave Bonde]

Keith in my search I have seen them listed for the 64 but it states (not 64A) I don't know what the difference is. They might have one I just have not noticed one listed. Dave

[Dave Bonde]

Keith from Mikestools web site. "Powermatic 64A does not have a splitter available from Biesemeyer":mad: Dave

[glenn bradley]

I make shop-made ZCI's and use MJ Splitters (http://www.ttrackusa.com/mjsplitter.htm). Cheap (prices vary widely by source) , easy in and out. I have never broken one but I see they now offer a steel core version for heavy-handers.

From my experience, buy a stock set for your blade kerf (standard or thin). This gives you two splitters with varying offsets and the little jig for drilling the holes. Then if required, buy pairs of splitters for a few bucks apiece if required. I have yet to order any additional pieces.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=69206&d=1186000086

[Jim Eller]

Another vote for Lee's Shark Guard with pawls. It's on my 66.

Love it, because I use it.

Jim

[Tim Morton]

I use a delta removable splitter. it seems to be very similar to the Beis, but it sells for about a third of the cost.

[John Pohja]

Yes Kevin I was crosscutting - have done it 1000's of times over the years. To be honest I'm not sure what happened, I was through the cut and moving around the saw I don't know if I pushed the part back into the blade with the other part or what but wack it flew back at an angle and hit me in the forearm just above the wrist. I thought it broke my arm at the time and still have pain from the fingers to the elbow but could have been worse, I had a sweatshirt on that had to have helped cousion the blow - I keep thinking "what if it had hit me in the face"
Although a splitter is a good idea in general (I use the newer microjig model with the steel skeleton), I don't see how a splitter would have helped you in this instance. John

[Larry Marley]

Keith from Mikestools web site. "Powermatic 64A does not have a splitter available from Biesemeyer":mad: Dave

the shark guard has a version for the 64A

don't know anything about this product, but I noticed your saw was on the list.

[Keith Starosta]

Keith from Mikestools web site. "Powermatic 64A does not have a splitter available from Biesemeyer":mad: Dave


Thanks to all of you guys who answered my question. I guess I'll look into an MJ Splitter...

- Keith

[Dave MacArthur]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=74008
PM66 Bies splitter, wasn't available for months, now avail

[Frank Stolten]

Glad you didn't get seriously injured with your kickback. There are after-market splitters available from Delta and Biesemeyer that just snap in place and are easily removed in a few seconds. I have the Biesemeyer and use it all the time. I wish I would've bought it a long time ago. As a less costly alternative, you could easily make your own at very little cost. Here are a couple of articles that describe how to do it.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=37761
http://webpages.charter.net/harkerho.../splitter.html

You also could do a web search and probably come up with other splitter designs. I've made my own in the past and, when I sold my contractor's saw, made sure the new owner understood the splitter's function and why it was important to keep it installed as much as possible.

I think a lot of times we get so focused on woodworking technique that we don't think enough about the most important part....how to do it safely.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I have never had MDF close on the blade. The stuff is as dead a lead.

[Brian Fulkerson]

If I am not mistaken, the kick-back that everyone is describing is binding between the blade and fence. Not a splitter issue. A splitter prevents the piece from pinching around the blade and shooting/lifting upward, not straight back. The issue here should be resolved with proper fence/blade alignment and clearing the blade after rip.

A splitter should not serve much of a function with MDF as deflection is very minimal if any. Can anyone chime in with agreement? Or, am I missing something here?

Brian

[Lee Hingle]

Another satisfied bies snap in splitter user on a PM66
Lee

[M. A. Espinoza]

Yes Kevin I was crosscutting - have done it 1000's of times over the years. To be honest I'm not sure what happened, I was through the cut and moving around the saw I don't know if I pushed the part back into the blade with the other part I keep thinking "what if it had hit me in the face"

Glad you got out with a bruise.

At first I was thinking like others "how do you get a bind with MDF?" But then I read your later post.

Sounds like what happened is that the piece either vibrated back or was inadvertently pushed into the back of the blade and ZING!

This is another reason that splitters or riving knives are valuable, they offer a little protection from falloff or operator moving the workpiece into the back of the blade.

Its easy to move the piece too soon when doing a cutout, and a splitter has always been a good way to ensure you don't start moving the workpiece until you are definitely "clear".

Another nice thing about a splitter is that it improves cut quality if adjusted so that it applies a little pressure to keep the work against the fence. My cuts are always much cleaner when done with a splitter.

I've given up advocating them at work, most shop guys don't like see to like them in my experience. But they are definitely used in my personal shop.

[Scott Haddix]

I recently purchased a used 5HP PM66 saw as an upgrade to my Rigid contractor table saw. On the Rigid, I never used the guard/splitter. But as I learn more and realize that this additional power could result in a substantial kickback accident, I am planning on using a guard/splitter whenever possible.

I had just intended to use the stock splitter/guard that came with the saw. However, I see a lot of people who's opinions I've come to value all recommending after-market models.

Is there a reason why the stock models are insufficient? I look at everything in terms of opportunity cost, so I'm trying to understand what I'm getting for the money over what I already have to warrant spending my limited funds on this over other tools.

[Chris Rosenberger]

Scott,
I use an after market splitter & guard because they are easy for me to remove & reinstall. I have a Beisemeyer overarm guard & splitter. If the stock guard works well for you then use it & save the money.

[Craig D Peltier]

Amazon has complaints about the bies splitter not working with thin kerf blades.

[Heather Thompson]

Amazon has complaints about the bies splitter not working with thin kerf blades.

Craig,

I just ordered a Biesmeyer splitter to use on my PM66 from Mike's Tools, it clearly states that the unit is not intended for use with thin kerf blades, minimun saw blade thickness is 1/8".

Heather

[Jim Solomon]

Does anyone know if the PM2000's riving knife could be retrofitted to a PM66? I assume not, as they are not offered on the 66. But, maybe no one has asked?
Jim

[Mike Hoyt]

Not to hijack, but you guys with the delta removeable splitter does it work with TK blades, I read somewhere that the Bies version does not.
Thanks, Mike

[Jim Becker]

Not to hijack, but you guys with the delta removeable splitter does it work with TK blades, I read somewhere that the Bies version does not.

The Biesemeyer snap-in splitter is for full kerf blades only. My understanding is that the Delta removable splitter will work with thin kerf blades if I'm recalling clearly.

[Steven Wilson]

Dave, I had the Beis splitter on my PM66 and it was very workable. A friend of mine likes the factory unit once he removed the guard and anti-kickback pawls from the splitter.