My glue questions

[Carl Crout]

1. In some of my table tops I see the glue line. It is about 1/8" wide. Is that caused by using Titibond? It wasn't there when I stained the panel.
2. So what kind of glue am I suppose to use on projects that might need repaired in 100 years? Epoxy? Isn't that a mess to clean up? How do you get the excess off of the wood, so that it won't mess up the finish?
Or do I use old fashioned hide glue?

[Dan Barr]

i dont know if "Titibond" would be any good. lolol :D :D :D however Titebond is great. I would check your pieces when you get them off of the jointer. if you mate up two freshly jointed pieces and there is a gap in the middle, your getting concave cut pieces. (dip in the middle) that means one or both of the tables on the jointer are low on the ends. conversely, if youre getting pieces with a gap on the ends, your jointer tables are high on the ends thus producing convex pieces.

clamping can take care of a small gap in a glue up but the difference you make up for on one side will show up in the other side.

cheers,

dan

[Dan Forman]

I think what may be happening is that you are wiping your glue (squeeze out) off when it's still wet, and the glue is filling the pores, preventing the finish from penetrating the wood. That would give you a lighter color along your glue line. The glue line (the space between the two pieces of wood) itself couldn't possibly be that wide.

Even if you use a damp rag to clean up fresh glue, it will fill the pores. The best thing is to wait until the squeze out is solidified but not yet hard, and then remove it with a scaper or single edge razor blade. That should take care of your glue line problem.

Dan

[Dan Forman]

I think what may be happening is that you are wiping your Titebond (squeeze out) off when it's still wet, and the glue is filling the pores, preventing the finish from penetrating the wood. That would give you a lighter color along your glue line. The glue line (the space between the two pieces of wood) itself couldn't possibly be that wide.

Even if you use a damp rag to clean up fresh glue, it will fill the pores. The best thing is to wait until the squeze out is solidified but not yet hard, and then remove it with a scaper or single edge razor blade. That should take care of your glue line problem.

Hide glue will clean up with water without problems, so that is another option for surpaces that you don't expect to be damp in use.

A once over with a handplane would also take off the offending pore filled material after the Titebond has been wiped off well and dried, though you would want the grain aligned in the same direction on your panel in order to prevent tearout.

Dan