New to the Site

[Donnie Raines]

I more or less wanted to say hello! Though I have browsed here before, I did not follow through with becoming a member...that all changed last evening. I have been woodworking only 6-7 years and have found myself in love with the Shaker style......figured lumber even more so. I have put together a pretty complete shop...Unisaw(a recent purchase) drum sander, spindles sander and lots of LN hand planes........and lots of other "needed" items.

I have spent the majority of my "online Woodworking" at Woodonline. In fact, and I don't know if Jim Becker will vouch for me, but I signed on as a Woodonline forum host last year. Jim has been a big help with me on that site. I look forward to interacting with you all here, too....both to enhance my woodworking skills and maybe even share a few ideas with you guys/gals along the way. Thanks for reading!

Donnie Raines

[Aaron Koehl]

Well.. glad you wisened up! Err, I mean..

Welcome to Sawmill Creek!

_Aaron_

[Dennis Peacock]

Donnie....

<font size=+3><B>Welcome to SMC!!!!!</B></FONT>

Grab a seat, take yer shoes off and wade on in the water. Enjoy this site, learn what you can and share what you know. We are a "community" here and much like a "family". Thanks for visiting and post often and share you projects.

[Mark Singer]

Welcome!!! Great people here!

[Glenn Clabo]

I don't know if Jim Becker will vouch for me
Donnie Raines

Donnie...I don't know if that would be a good or bad thing. :D

Welcome to SMC...you'll be a great addition to the crew.

[Martin Shupe]

Always great to have another Shaker enthusiast at the Creek!

Do a seach on Jason Tuinstra, and take a look at his clock!

[Donnie Raines]

Always great to have another Shaker enthusiast at the Creek!

Do a seach on Jason Tuinstra, and take a look at his clock!

Will Do!! In fact, i just finished selecting the lumber for a tall clock I am going to dive into this weekend.

DonnieR

[Tyler Howell]

Sorry Donnie, We don't permit LESS saying hello. It is either more or none! :mad:
I'm not always this grouchy! It's just that Dennis and I just had a misunderstanding. :( I’ve hurt his feelings and it wasn’t my intention. I'm a little out of sorts. :o
Butchering a lot of boards this weekend so I'll get that out of my system;)
Welcome Donnie, Great bunch of people here and they put up with me.:D
Glad to have you in the Creek. Every time I wade in I always come out with something great.:cool:

[Donnie Raines]

Sorry Donnie, We don't permit LESS saying hello. It is either more or none! :mad:
I'm not always this grouchy! It's just that Dennis and I just had a misunderstanding. :( I’ve hurt his feelings and it wasn’t my intention. I'm a little out of sorts. :o
Butchering a lot of boards this weekend so I'll get that out of my system;)
Welcome Donnie, Great bunch of people here and they put up with me.:D
Glad to have you in the Creek. Every time I wade in I always come out with something great.:cool:



I hope you dont mind me saying......but the look on your face(in the photo) just screams "I'm guilty!!!!"......... :D

DonnieR

[Tyler Howell]

I hope you dont mind me saying......but the look on your face(in the photo) just screams "I'm guilty!!!!"......... :D

DonnieR

Donnie don't tell anybody....They'll never know. ;)

[David Blangger]

Welcome Donnie,

Love that Shaker...great pictures on your site....but clean up your URL...tough getting to it;)

Your right about Tyler:D He does look like he was caught with his hands in the cookie jar:p and always asking for some more:D:D

[Todd Burch]

Welcome Donnie!

[Dennis Peacock]

Tyler - I'm not always this grouchy! It's just that Dennis and I just had a misunderstanding. I’ve hurt his feelings and it wasn’t my intention. I'm a little out of sorts.


LOL!!!!! I guess I'm as good an excuse to be grouchy as any hugh Tyler? :D Just keep it up and I will wish spetic problems on you.!! Naw, I wouldn't wish that on anybody....!!!!

Can you get back in "sorts" now? (chuckle)....you're so funny.

[Terry Hatfield]

DR!!!!!!

Welcome!!! Glad to see you over here. This is really home for me even though I do spent quite a bit of time surfing around including at Woodonline.

Jump right in, we won't hold knowing Becker against you. :D

Terry

[Jim Becker]

Geepers, I "recruit" somebody who does amazing things with figured maple and I'm still of "questionable character"... :rolleyes: Oh, well...you'll all just have to live with it. I do every day... :D

And, Donnie...welcome to a very kewel place to hang out. A great community of folks; all great.

[John Miliunas]

Welcome to the Creek, Donnie! Gee, glad you didn't introduce yourself saying you just picked up this gigantic MiniMax this or that! :D We get enough of that from Jim B.! At any rate, great place to hang. Stop often, stay long and don't forget the pics! We *like* pics.... :cool:

[Bob Lasley]

Hey Donnie,

Welcome to the Creek. Looking forward to seeing pics of some of your Shaker projects.

Bob

[Jeff Skory]

Welcome aboard Donnie,

This place has a great set of people to visit and share with. One or two of them even have a sense of humor :D (ok, maybe more like 20 or 30 :rolleyes: )

Since Jim says you do great things with figured maple I'm anxious to see some of your work. Unfortunately clicking on your website didn't work. Can you post the URL?

[Donnie Raines]

Gents, thanks for the warm welcome!! I have had a pretty easy time aclimating to the site's layout.......now I am only wondering if I should have used the Jim card on my first day :D ......thanks again!

DonnieR

[Donnie Raines]

Welcome aboard Donnie,

This place has a great set of people to visit and share with. One or two of them even have a sense of humor :D (ok, maybe more like 20 or 30 :rolleyes: )

Since Jim says you do great things with figured maple I'm anxious to see some of your work. Unfortunately clicking on your website didn't work. Can you post the URL?

Thanks Jeff.....try the URL below....I am having a hard time figureing out how to edit my profile screen....I will be updating my homepage soon. i have a made an number of projects since these ....including a curly cherry Shaker wall clock(like the one Jim B posted a few weeks back.

http://hometown.aol.com/__121b_3B7JgoSJ/4vAITt5OP5zPg2CFxWjH4LK7cmTIKN+tXc=

DonnieR

[Jeff Skory]

Very cool projects!! I myself am quite new to woodworking. Just got my shop built and bought a bunch of equipment and I am jumping in with both feet.

I bought a piece of curly maple to build a small table with. Planed it up earlier this evening. Fun looking grain. Pretty light colored wood though. I put some paste wax on the thin scrap pieces I got after ripping the boards on the TS. Didn't bring out the grain as much as I thought it might.

What do you typically use for finishing curly maple?

[Tom Stovell]

Donnie,
I have found this site to be both informative and friendly....glad to have another Buckeye on board. I am up by Dayton and have an interest in Shaker furniture as well. If you haven't gone to visit the Shaker furniture examples near us, you should go sometime. Pleasant Hill in Harrodsburg, Warren County Historical, Golden Lamb Inn all have some real nice examples.

Tom

[Donnie Raines]

Very cool projects!! I myself am quite new to woodworking. Just got my shop built and bought a bunch of equipment and I am jumping in with both feet.

I bought a piece of curly maple to build a small table with. Planed it up earlier this evening. Fun looking grain. Pretty light colored wood though. I put some paste wax on the thin scrap pieces I got after ripping the boards on the TS. Didn't bring out the grain as much as I thought it might.

What do you typically use for finishing curly maple?
Jeff, on the spice box I used a very thinned out water base dye(shaker maple is the color) I use dyes alomost all the time when working with figure maple. the neat thing about dyes is that you can mix per the instrcutions to get the labled color -or- you can add more, or less, water to adjust the color. I normally mix three diffrent shades of the same "labeled" color. In addition, i use water base dyes because they do not evaporate as quick as other solevent base dyes.....which is very important when working with dye. Once I have applied the dye(which is a lot of work, but is well worth the effort) i apply a very heavy coat of bolied linseed oil.....I then use some 320 sandpaper to build up a slurry with the dust and linseed oil...this pushed the oil deeper into the figure(actually the surrounding area). Wipe off all excess....and then allow to dry at least one week. If the oil still has a strong smell in a week, allow more drying time. Once the oil has dried, i choose a film finish of my choice. the spice box I sprayed lacquer...the Shaker chest with door I padded on shellac. I would encourage you to pick up a book by Bob Flexner.....he is great with the step by step process of useing dyes...it gets a bit detailed...but once you get used to it, you will try to do every project. Thanks for the comments on my projects!

DonnieR

[Jeff Skory]

Donnie, thanks for the info.

[John Miliunas]

What do you typically use for finishing curly maple?

Not to butt in on Donnie's territory, but FWIW, I like to keep my woods as close to "natural" as I can. ie, I avoid stains/dye's in favor of clear finishes. I have found "Velvit Oil" to be one of the premier methods to "pop" the grain and leave a beautiful finish. If you work it wet with 400 or higher grit wet/dry paper, you also create a slurry, which helps fill voids. You can't hardly believe the finish it leaves behind! I just invites you to touch it and look oh-so-deep! Try it...You might like it! :cool:

[Jason Tuinstra]

Donnie, I was wondering how you got my name. I don't know how I missed this thread. :confused: Sorry 'bout that. So here's my official welcome!!!

The email you sent me is at home, so I didn't know how I was going to respond to you today so I'm glad I found this thread. Your website is great. What a catalogue of furniture you have there! Your love for figured wood and Shaker lines is a welcome addition here at SMC. I look forward to the updates and more pictures. Welcome again.


Jason

[Donnie Raines]

Not to butt in on Donnie's territory, but FWIW, I like to keep my woods as close to "natural" as I can. ie, I avoid stains/dye's in favor of clear finishes. I have found "Velvit Oil" to be one of the premier methods to "pop" the grain and leave a beautiful finish. If you work it wet with 400 or higher grit wet/dry paper, you also create a slurry, which helps fill voids. You can't hardly believe the finish it leaves behind! I just invites you to touch it and look oh-so-deep! Try it...You might like it! :cool:
Your right, beauty is in the eye of the beholder......I like both dyed and natural figured wood.....maple is simply more proned to be dyed in my shop then left natural. Curly cherry, walnut anf the like are always left natural, for me.

John, have you ever tried thinning out Pratt and Lambert #38???...if not give it a go. Mix it 75% varnish to 25% mineral spirits....

DonnieR

[John Miliunas]

John, have you ever tried thinning out Pratt and Lambert #38???...if not give it a go. Mix it 75% varnish to 25% mineral spirits....

DonnieR

No, haven't tried that particular mix, though I do know I like various sorts of "witch's brew". Will need to give that one a go, as well! Thanks for the tip. Also, due to some "requirements" that LOML has given me, I too may have to try my hand at some of the dye's! :cool:

[Donnie Raines]

No, haven't tried that particular mix, though I do know I like various sorts of "witch's brew". Will need to give that one a go, as well! Thanks for the tip. Also, due to some "requirements" that LOML has given me, I too may have to try my hand at some of the dye's! :cool:
BTW, with regard to the Pratt and Lambert product. It is pretty pricey...about 20 bucks for a small can....plus it's shelf life is far shorter then the "norm".....about three months, I dont know why this is...but it is.....worth trying however. It evaporates quickly and, if mixed properly, will not blotch/drip/bubble........blah, blah....anf build to a hi-sheen..like shellac(..almost).

DonnieR

[John Miliunas]

BTW, with regard to the Pratt and Lambert product. It is pretty pricey...about 20 bucks for a small can....plus it's shelf life is far shorter then the "norm".....about three months, I dont know why this is...but it is.....worth trying however. It evaporates quickly and, if mixed properly, will not blotch/drip/bubble........blah, blah....anf build to a hi-sheen..like shellac(..almost).

DonnieR

Eeeeek! Twenty bucks for a small can? Short shelf life? Hmmm...Me thinks I'd better have *several* little projects ready to go if I try this stuff out! Any place in particular one purchases said "liquid gold"? :cool:

[Donnie Raines]

Eeeeek! Twenty bucks for a small can? Short shelf life? Hmmm...Me thinks I'd better have *several* little projects ready to go if I try this stuff out! Any place in particular one purchases said "liquid gold"? :cool:
anyplace that sells Pratt & Lambert paint......here in Cincinnati it would be one of three places(no big box stores).

Don

[Jeff Skory]

Not to butt in on Donnie's territory, but FWIW, I like to keep my woods as close to "natural" as I can. ie, I avoid stains/dye's in favor of clear finishes. I have found "Velvit Oil" to be one of the premier methods to "pop" the grain and leave a beautiful finish. If you work it wet with 400 or higher grit wet/dry paper, you also create a slurry, which helps fill voids. You can't hardly believe the finish it leaves behind! I just invites you to touch it and look oh-so-deep! Try it...You might like it! :cool:

Hi John,

Thanks for the tip on Velvit Oil. I love natural finishes too, but as I mentioned the paste wax really didn't do a thing. Haven't tried anything else yet. Where do you purchase this "Velvit Oil"? Are there other oils that I could buy locally that might also work?

Thanks,

Jeff

[Donnie Raines]

Hi John,

Thanks for the tip on Velvit Oil. I love natural finishes too, but as I mentioned the paste wax really didn't do a thing. Haven't tried anything else yet. Where do you purchase this "Velvit Oil"? Are there other oils that I could buy locally that might also work?

Thanks,

Jeff
Jeff, I too , do not mean to step in over John, but there are some products better then others. But as a general rule of thumb, any oil base finish will help to draw out the figure in any lumber....Danish oil may be an exception...and the only reason I state that(..and this may be in "my view:) the Dansih oil is flat, and does not add depth. Sure you could top coat that with a film finish but why add a second or third step. I would encouarge you to try Arm R Seal by General finish, semi gloss is good. Just rag it on and wipe it smooth, It will take a number of coats to build a nice smooth surface that will look a mile deep. The Velvit oil is really nice and is easy to work with. you could , also, use boiled inseed oil top coated with a varnish or lacquer film finish,,,thats kinda my trend here as of late,

DonnieR

[John Miliunas]

Hi John,

Thanks for the tip on Velvit Oil. I love natural finishes too, but as I mentioned the paste wax really didn't do a thing. Haven't tried anything else yet. Where do you purchase this "Velvit Oil"? Are there other oils that I could buy locally that might also work?

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff, I buy it here: http://www.workbenchtool.com/velvit_oil.htm
although for me, that IS local, as they are located in Madison, WI. I tried doing a SMC forum search, but couldn't come up with a 4-word search for it. Reason being, I seem to recall a member of the Creek is also a vendor for Velvit Oil. Just can't seem to remember who it is!

I've also had pretty good luck with a BLO/naphta brew (50/50) to pop the grain. With either product though, the usual care must be taken to properly dispose of the applicators used, due to the possibility of spontaneous combustion! :cool:

[John Miliunas]

[QUOTE=John Miliunas] Reason being, I seem to recall a member of the Creek is also a vendor for Velvit Oil. Just can't seem to remember who it is!

QUOTE]

Hah! I remembered who it is: Barbara Gill! Go to the members list, find her and click on her WWW. :cool:

[Donnie Raines]

photo attempt....

[Terry Hatfield]

DR,

Hmmm.....it's a bit small. Is the little bitty font over on Wood rubbing off on your pics???? :D Sorry, I couldn't resist. :D

Looks like you got it, you just need to resize the pics.

t

[Jeff Skory]

Jeff, I buy it here: http://www.workbenchtool.com/velvit_oil.htm
although for me, that IS local, as they are located in Madison, WI. I tried doing a SMC forum search, but couldn't come up with a 4-word search for it. Reason being, I seem to recall a member of the Creek is also a vendor for Velvit Oil. Just can't seem to remember who it is!

I've also had pretty good luck with a BLO/naphta brew (50/50) to pop the grain. With either product though, the usual care must be taken to properly dispose of the applicators used, due to the possibility of spontaneous combustion! :cool:

Thanks for the link John. Would I use the Natural or Maple color in order to get the most out of the grain?

[Jeff Skory]

Jeff, I too , do not mean to step in over John, but there are some products better then others. But as a general rule of thumb, any oil base finish will help to draw out the figure in any lumber....Danish oil may be an exception...and the only reason I state that(..and this may be in "my view:) the Dansih oil is flat, and does not add depth. Sure you could top coat that with a film finish but why add a second or third step. I would encouarge you to try Arm R Seal by General finish, semi gloss is good. Just rag it on and wipe it smooth, It will take a number of coats to build a nice smooth surface that will look a mile deep. The Velvit oil is really nice and is easy to work with. you could , also, use boiled inseed oil top coated with a varnish or lacquer film finish,,,thats kinda my trend here as of late,

DonnieR

Donnie,

I'll look into the Arm R Seal as well. With regard to the boiled linseed oil. I have come across this a lot in my reading. Do you buy it as "boiled linseed oil" or do you actually have to boil it yourself before applying? May sound like a silly question but I can see either answer being true. :D

[Donnie Raines]

Donnie,

I'll look into the Arm R Seal as well. With regard to the boiled linseed oil. I have come across this a lot in my reading. Do you buy it as "boiled linseed oil" or do you actually have to boil it yourself before applying? May sound like a silly question but I can see either answer being true. :D
Buy it labled "Boiled Linseed Oil"...NOT Double Boiled Linseed oil or Raw Linseed oil. the later are used as lubricants and will never dry.

DonnieR

[Donnie Raines]

DR,

Hmmm.....it's a bit small. Is the little bitty font over on Wood rubbing off on your pics???? :D Sorry, I couldn't resist. :D

Looks like you got it, you just need to resize the pics.

t
Oddly enough, when i posted these photos on another site they came up full size.....they also showed up small over at WOOD....oh well.

So whats yoru thoughts on the new Wood site?

DonnieR

[Jeff Skory]

Buy it labled "Boiled Linseed Oil"...NOT Double Boiled Linseed oil or Raw Linseed oil. the later are used as lubricants and will never dry.

DonnieR

Thanks. Another question along these lines. You mentioned that you then topcoat it with varnish or lacquer. Would shellac also work? I have some that I purchased and what I like so far about it is that it has very little fumes. My basement is not well ventilated (yet). That may be a project I will take on this summer.

[Terry Hatfield]

So whats yoru thoughts on the new Wood site?

DonnieR

DR,

Not sure I can say that here. :D

I don't like it, but I'll get used to it I guess.

Need a search feature. Need bigger font. Need to be able to reply to a reply. All the standard complaints that I have read over there already.

It's not a huge deal to me really. I can adapt.

t

[John Miliunas]

Thanks for the link John. Would I use the Natural or Maple color in order to get the most out of the grain?

Jeff, I have only used the Natural on my stuff. However, I hear you can also add dyes meant for oils. I myself need to get on the "dye thing", as I've seen loads of great results with dyes. I do plan on trying the dyes with the Velvit Oil, as well as water-based dyes. :cool: