Jim C Bradley
10-15-2007, 7:21 PM
Hi all,
The "BS" in the title refers to Band Saw, not the other stuff.
A few weeks ago I was following a thread about loosening band saw blades. I made some kind of comment about the cheap, fast, easy way I do it. Two or more people on the thread asked for photos of what I have.
I am slow to respond because I cannot find out which thread it was. I am just learning how to post photos on SMC. I am still learning how to crop photos, etc. Or to put it another way---any excuse is better than none.
The three enclosed photos are: 1) the lever on the BS, 2) a close-up of the ballbearing between the BS frame and the threaded rod, and 3) a photo showing the drilled dimple in the end of the rod and the ballbearing that sits there.
In my quiries someone asked how I kept the ball in place. Even with all of the tension removed from the saw blade---in fact with tension reduced to where the blade could be removed easily---there is still the weight of the threaded rod itself sitting on the ball, keeping it in the dimple.
Someone else asked me if the blade tension would not drop off all by itself since I have made it so easy to increase or decrease tension. Oh yes, I can tension a 1/2" blade using only one finger on the lever. My response was that I have not used the system for prolonged periods of time. If the tension were to reduce, even slightly, I would notice that the lever had changed position even if I didn't notice it in the action of the blade when cutting. Also, the lever gives me tremendous leverage compared to a typical knob leverage and much more tremendous (is that English?) leverage compared to what bandsaw vibration could achieve.
I back off 10 turns to release tension and tighten 10 turns to put me back to the original tension. I don't have to look at or trust tension gauges. During my search for the original thread, on other forums, I noticed several people just back off 5 turns. Five turns may well be enough. I have not actually checked under 10 turns.
Since the tension releases so easily and rapidly, I have no reason not to release. It probably takes all of 15 seconds for me to release the tension and drop the blade guide to the table (so I will know the tension has been released). It takes about the same time to reverse the process.
My bandsaw is an old Delta. It was inhereted from my father. It is in very good condition and runs like a dream. I don't seem to be bothered by the blade drift I keep reading about. This could be that the saw is really lined up, the new Carter guides, the new tires, or the fact that I have not cut any squirrly wood. Could even be because I follow directions.
I did put on a switch I operate with my knee for off and a finger for on. Total cost about $5.oo. Oops. Sorry. I got to wandering---I am very good at that.
Enjoy,
Jim
The "BS" in the title refers to Band Saw, not the other stuff.
A few weeks ago I was following a thread about loosening band saw blades. I made some kind of comment about the cheap, fast, easy way I do it. Two or more people on the thread asked for photos of what I have.
I am slow to respond because I cannot find out which thread it was. I am just learning how to post photos on SMC. I am still learning how to crop photos, etc. Or to put it another way---any excuse is better than none.
The three enclosed photos are: 1) the lever on the BS, 2) a close-up of the ballbearing between the BS frame and the threaded rod, and 3) a photo showing the drilled dimple in the end of the rod and the ballbearing that sits there.
In my quiries someone asked how I kept the ball in place. Even with all of the tension removed from the saw blade---in fact with tension reduced to where the blade could be removed easily---there is still the weight of the threaded rod itself sitting on the ball, keeping it in the dimple.
Someone else asked me if the blade tension would not drop off all by itself since I have made it so easy to increase or decrease tension. Oh yes, I can tension a 1/2" blade using only one finger on the lever. My response was that I have not used the system for prolonged periods of time. If the tension were to reduce, even slightly, I would notice that the lever had changed position even if I didn't notice it in the action of the blade when cutting. Also, the lever gives me tremendous leverage compared to a typical knob leverage and much more tremendous (is that English?) leverage compared to what bandsaw vibration could achieve.
I back off 10 turns to release tension and tighten 10 turns to put me back to the original tension. I don't have to look at or trust tension gauges. During my search for the original thread, on other forums, I noticed several people just back off 5 turns. Five turns may well be enough. I have not actually checked under 10 turns.
Since the tension releases so easily and rapidly, I have no reason not to release. It probably takes all of 15 seconds for me to release the tension and drop the blade guide to the table (so I will know the tension has been released). It takes about the same time to reverse the process.
My bandsaw is an old Delta. It was inhereted from my father. It is in very good condition and runs like a dream. I don't seem to be bothered by the blade drift I keep reading about. This could be that the saw is really lined up, the new Carter guides, the new tires, or the fact that I have not cut any squirrly wood. Could even be because I follow directions.
I did put on a switch I operate with my knee for off and a finger for on. Total cost about $5.oo. Oops. Sorry. I got to wandering---I am very good at that.
Enjoy,
Jim