Old craftsman table saw insert info needed.

[Wayne Ilfrey]

I have a very old Craftsman bench table saw. It still cuts true and there is nothing really wrong with it. That said; Yesterday I had an accident and a piece of wood kicked back on me. No damage done to me fortunantely (I learned my lesson a long time ago about standing directly behind the cut!)
But the insert on this old machine kicked out with the wood. It was strange but it happend and the metal insert is now twisted and bent all to he11. It is a contactors saw and the insert is about 2 mil. (3/16") thick metal. I of course cannot find a replacement.
So, does anyone have an idea what I can use that will work as a replacement insert? Being so thin, it dosent seem that plexiglass or any wood product would work, and all the insert blanks out there are for the thicker type of insert.
Any thoughts would help, thx.

Wayniac

[Lee Schierer]

Before I had a new aluminum zero clearance insert made for my craftsman saw I used 1/4" luan plywood with a 3/4 x 3/4 rib of scrap wood glued to the underside for stiffness. The luan ply was the perfect thickness. Just make sure the rib won't hit the blade washers and nut when the blade is raised to full height.

[scott spencer]

A model number would help narrow down the field.

[Scott Loven]

You can buy aftermarket inserts for a older sears table saw.
Scott

[Shane Sura]

Wayne,
I probably have the same model. What I did was take a piece of 3/4 birch plywood and routed out the lips around the edges. It made it a little thin in the back but there is not down force there. So far it has worked very well as a ZCI.

Shane

[glenn bradley]

If it is a vintage C-man and your part number (for the saw) starts with 113. then it is probably an Emerson. This plate is 3/32" and here is one source: http://www.ptreeusa.com/zero_clearance.htm

I recommend a shop made insert but with the lip that thin you'll want to use tempered 1/4" (at least) hardboard or some BB ply and cut a rabbet around the edge. Someone makes a phenolic or fiberglass impregnated one. . . let me see . . . sorry, I was thinking of Woodpeckers but they are discontinuing them.

Maybe item 9342 here but you need your saw's model number: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/saw_accessories1.html

[Wayne Ilfrey]

Thank you for all your help.
The Mod.# is 1157167.
Unfortunately I cannot find one that fits. Even the sites that claim "Vintage Craftsman" isn't the right one.
The plate is 12.5" X 3" and 3/16" thick.

[Bruce Page]

Wayne, this is an insert that I drew up and machined for someone a few years ago that had an old Craftsman TS. It’s a zero type insert with a replaceable hardwood insert. I don’t know if it is the same size as yours but if so, the pic might help your search.

[Pat Germain]

FYI, the only place I could find a zero clearance insert for my Craftsman saw was at Woodcraft.

[Bill Huber]

Take a look at this saw, is like yours?

This is an old one from 1953?

I can send you a zero clearance template that I have made.

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/75345848

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/83061777

[Wayne Ilfrey]

Bill,
That is close, althought not exact. I would appreciate it if you would send me a template if you think it will work for me.
Here are some photos of my saw and the insert...

http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_1.jpg
http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_2.jpg
http://http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_3.jpg (http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_3.jpg)

This one has a rule on it but the measurement is deceiving. It seems to be pretty much 3" actually.
http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_4.jpg
http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_5.jpg
http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_6.jpg

This pict shows how the insert does not screw in but was held down by small clips on the bottom (very flimsy)
http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_7.jpg
http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_9.jpg

BTW, nice saw, if i ever get this insert thing sussed out I am going to get a new fence myself.
Thanks,
Wayne

[Wayne Ilfrey]

I hammered out the old insert last night. While it will never be level again, i may have got it to the point that I can use it as a template.
So my next question is... if i get some of those phenolic plates, are they strong enouph for me to router out the edges so it will fit the 3/16" depth?
If anyone has experience with this let me know. Otherwise I can try Shane's suggestion to use Birch ply.

Thanks for all your help, your a great bunch of guys.

[Pat Germain]

Wayne, your insert is just like mine. Thus, the insert I bought at Woodcraft should fit your saw. Of course, it's more fun to make your own, but if you want to get one off the shelf, Woodcraft should be able to hook you up.

[Gary McKown]

The phenolic plates are plenty stiff and machinable, but I have made quite serviceable inserts for a not-quite-so-vintage Craftsman by cutting a piece of 1/8" tempered hardboard to fit the lip, for strength epoxied on the underside another piece that fits down in the opening, and used screw inserts for leveling. You probably will need to use a smaller blade to start the kerf or mill out the underside part way through.

Make 2+ while you are at it - one ZCI and one with a wider slot allowing blade tilt. If you use a dado stack, make 3+.

[Wayne Ilfrey]

I just went to the Rockler store and bought a couple of planks of purpleheart wood. I am going to try and use this to make my own inserts and see how it works.
Wish me luck. :rolleyes:

Cheers,
Wayne

[Wayne Ilfrey]

Well guys, I did it.
I managed to create an insert plate that works great.
I made this one out of MDF first to make sure it was going to work and it does the job quite well.
Here are some picts...

http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_10.jpg
http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_11.jpg
http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_12.jpg
http://www.freedomdesignonline.com/clients/Wayne/wood/TS_13.jpg

I made the height a bit proud of the table and then sanded it down even with the table, which worked great. It will of course probably take a bit longer to sand the purpleheart when I make the final ones.

Thanks again for all your help out there.

Cheers,
Wayniac.