Transitional plane advice

[James Davis]

I picked up a complete transitional plane this weekend but over half of the wood sole is dry rotted. Would any of you out there try to save the top 3/4" or so or would you just replace the whole thing? The best I can tell the original bottom was 1 3/8" thick. The only name I can find on it is "Lakeside" in cursive letters on the blade. The frog screws and the front knob screws are wood screws just passing through the metal casting on top. This may or may not be typical, this is after all the first time I have been up close and personal with a transitional plane. All of the metal is in good shape, just needs cleaning and rust proofing.

Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
James Davis

[Ryan Cathey]

I'd just replace the whole thing. Lakeside was an "off-brand" anyways. Probably use cherry or even beech if you can get it. What is its Stanley equivilent?

[Mark Stutz]

In general, I would agree with Ryan. The only advantage I can see to using what you can of the original, would be getting the placement and angles of the mouth opening correct, especially if you've never done one. Although these don't have a good reputation due to Blood and Gore, there are many who find them quite good when rehabbed. Have a nice Stanley #27, but havemisplaced my round tuit.

Bob Smalser has a nice writeup on replacing the sole on a wooden smoother...should be the same for the transitional. Good luck with your Rehab.

Mark

[harry strasil]

Lakeside = Montgomery Ward made by one of the other tool companies with MW name on it.

[James Davis]

The plane is 15" long so it would be like a #5. I think I will just replace the whole piece of wood since it has no special shape to it, just a rectangle with a mouth opening. Not expecting much, but just want the experience.

James