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View Full Version : Different way of doing the North Bridge



Scott Perry
10-14-2007, 9:38 PM
Ok, even though my photo skills have not improved....this engraving I think is better than my mirror....whadya think?

I painted a piece of glass with white paint....let her dry...
engraved photo (after photograved)...spray painted black and wha-la.

Also no banding in this one. My rep. said it is caused by a cold tube. I needed to warm it up by rastering a box out of focus (optional, this way I do not waste materials) for about 15 minutes. I did an it worked. But it could be because I ran this at 53 speed/100 power. The mirror I did earlier I ran at 23 speed/100 power twice. I am not totally convinced. I will try it again later.

Frank Corker
10-14-2007, 10:38 PM
Now that, is good!

Mike Null
10-15-2007, 6:32 AM
Very good! How does it look to you - up close and personal? Your picture looks like you may have found a marketable process.

Do you think using other colors like beige and sepia would produce an antique look?

Jim Good
10-15-2007, 7:22 AM
Scott,

I reiterate what Mike said! Your North Bridge would look really nice framed up, too! I'm going to ask a silly question but I'm assuming you painted the back of the glass white, reverse engraved, and then painted the back black. Right!?! Just wanted to verify what may be the obvious for others! :o

Thanks!

Jim

Niklas Bjornestal
10-15-2007, 7:54 AM
Do you just engrave through the paint? or do you also engrave the glass?

Darren Null
10-15-2007, 9:04 AM
That is excellent.

Scott Perry
10-15-2007, 10:35 AM
Thanks everyone. I did paint the back white--engraved through the white paint--painted it black. I think it will look good in a variety of colors. I plan to try different colors.

Now has anyone been able to prove what my rep said--warming up laser?

Barb Macdonald
10-15-2007, 10:49 AM
Is due to alignment issues. Have you tried bottom-up engraving, it really helped me with larger letters. Since we had the tube replaced, we've had no issues with slow to start burns.
good luck
Barb
epilog legend ext 60w

Scott Perry
10-15-2007, 11:03 AM
Is due to alignment issues. Have you tried bottom-up engraving, it really helped me with larger letters. Since we had the tube replaced, we've had no issues with slow to start burns.
good luck
Barb
epilog legend ext 60w

Both were done bottom up. I have not has any issues with any other material. I am still not convinced it has to warm up. It could just be my settings. I did this one at 53/100/250 and the mirror at 23/100/250.

James & Zelma Litzmann
10-15-2007, 12:54 PM
Scott,

The photo is absolutely beautiful. You did great! Congratulations!

Tom Bull
10-15-2007, 9:59 PM
What did you paint the glass with? It is really hard to get "normal" paint to bond to the surface of glass long term. Tends to flake off with expansion of glass. We have had reasonably good success by using etched glass to paint. It is available from most glass shops, though rather pricey compared to regular glass. Ask for satin etch. Have not tried engraving paint over satin etch. Will give it a go first chance.

Scott Perry
10-15-2007, 10:14 PM
I used Krylon. I plan to seal it with something to avoid the flaking. Not sure what yet.

Darren Null
10-16-2007, 10:01 AM
How about using that technique in perspex, using different colours to vary the burn depth slightly- might give an awesome 3D-ish effect.

Incidentally, my banding problems were probably due to alignment problems. When I replaced the laser after repairing it, the beam was massively misaligned (to the extent that the beam missed the exit hole on the head....luckily I noticed).

Scott Perry
10-16-2007, 10:29 AM
How about using that technique in perspex, using different colours to vary the burn depth slightly- might give an awesome 3D-ish effect.

Incidentally, my banding problems were probably due to alignment problems. When I replaced the laser after repairing it, the beam was massively misaligned (to the extent that the beam missed the exit hole on the head....luckily I noticed).

Darren, I am not sure how that would work on varying the depth because I can't get any depth in glass unless I sandcarve it.

Darren Null
10-16-2007, 11:11 AM
Same technique. Acrylic material.

Scott Perry
10-16-2007, 11:35 AM
Now thats an idea-maybe using the 3-D print driver.

Darren Null
10-16-2007, 11:55 AM
3d print driver wouldn't work if you're photograving it....it's all black or white BUT if you clipped round areas in photoshop; changed the colours to your 16 (or whatever) different power settings in manual mode (or just use 2 or 3 for foreground, mid and background), you'd get a 3d-ish effect.

For example:
Black (background, S 100, P 100)
Red (mid, S 80, P 100)
Green (fore, S 50, P 100)

...sort of thing. So foreground objects would appear closer because they would be...burned deeper into the acrylic. Just a variation on your excellent technique, which I fully intend to have a go at.

Another variation- have you thought of using blue paint instead of white and marketing them as bathroom tiles? You could spread 1 image across as many tiles as you like if it's vector.

Scott Perry
10-16-2007, 2:34 PM
I will have to play with the color part. As for the blue paint. Already thought of doing it that way plus a few other colors, gonna try sepia. Bathroom tiles....yep that sounds good as a mural.

Bill Cunningham
10-16-2007, 9:53 PM
Home depot has some 3x6" clear glass wall tiles about a quarter inch thick, with blue, smoke, or white backing. I picked up a couple out of curiosity ($1.29 ea, probably about 75 cents in the U.S. were 'still' getting ripped off here). I have not tried it yet, just too busy.. but it looked interesting.. It would be nice if they sold them in at least 6x6

drew winners
10-18-2007, 4:12 PM
I tried the same thing today, I found a really nice ansel adams that I tried the same trick... it didn't come out quite as nice as yours, well not even close to be honest. You must have had the power set way down, and the speed set way up... I'll try again tomorrow.

Any tips?

Scott Perry
10-18-2007, 4:53 PM
I ran the photo thru Photograve. Engraved it at speed 53, power 100 dpi 250 just like PG suggested for my laser. I could do it this fast because I painted the glass just enough to cover it. ( light coat). I used the light cherry setting in PG.

drew winners
10-18-2007, 6:24 PM
Did you invert the image?

Bill Cunningham
10-18-2007, 9:48 PM
You would flip it front to back, because your engraving on the back side, but there is no need to invert it (make it a negative image) I have been spraying glass black, and engraving photos for a while.. Never thought of using white first.. I usually just slipped something white behind it in the frame..
This is one I posted last year..
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=486624&postcount=11

(http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=52948&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1166561618)

Scott Perry
10-18-2007, 10:07 PM
Did you invert the image?

Just flip it left/right (mirror).

Bill Cunningham
10-18-2007, 10:34 PM
Just flip it left/right (mirror).
Thats what I was trying to say:D

drew winners
10-19-2007, 6:13 AM
to paint the glass white first. I'll have to try the black first today.

Alan Young
10-19-2007, 4:03 PM
Try painting the glass black and engraving, then get other piece of glass the same size and paint it white. Then put the to together paint to paint. this way the glass protects the paint and it will not flake off. Then of course just frame.

Alan

Scott Perry
10-19-2007, 4:37 PM
Try painting the glass black and engraving, then get other piece of glass the same size and paint it white. Then put the to together paint to paint. this way the glass protects the paint and it will not flake off. Then of course just frame.

Alan
This is a good way to create a 3D effect.

Bill Cunningham
10-20-2007, 11:57 AM
Remember, If your engraving into 'black' first, you have to engrave as a negative, then the white behind it will make it positive... I tried your white first method on a scrap of glass, very nice effect..

Scott Perry
10-21-2007, 11:28 AM
I love old timey photographs. Bill, does the original photo look like the etched one?

Bill Cunningham
10-23-2007, 7:32 PM
I love old timey photographs. Bill, does the original photo look like the etched one?

Well, its actually not a timely old photograph.(it is now I guess:rolleyes: ). It's a picture of a old manure spreader located on my Daughter and Son-in-Law's farm.. I thought it would make a nice picture, so out came the digital camera and 'crick' (it's Japanese :D )
This is the original Picture taken last fall..

Mike Null
10-23-2007, 8:56 PM
Bill

Do I detect a Cunningham logo on that manure speader.

Bill Cunningham
10-23-2007, 10:23 PM
Nope! Not this time.. But there have been days when I have had the 'reverse' midas touch. Thats where everything you touch turns to ...Well you get the idea.. Perhaps this whole thing is what some folks would call a 'Null' point :D

Mike Null
10-23-2007, 10:47 PM
Bill
Forgive me, I couldn't pass up the opportunity.

Bill Cunningham
10-25-2007, 7:18 PM
It's OK Mike!
Neither could I :D

drew winners
10-25-2007, 8:24 PM
I'd like to see the original of that picture.



Ok, even though my photo skills have not improved....this engraving I think is better than my mirror....whadya think?

I painted a piece of glass with white paint....let her dry...
engraved photo (after photograved)...spray painted black and wha-la.

Also no banding in this one. My rep. said it is caused by a cold tube. I needed to warm it up by rastering a box out of focus (optional, this way I do not waste materials) for about 15 minutes. I did an it worked. But it could be because I ran this at 53 speed/100 power. The mirror I did earlier I ran at 23 speed/100 power twice. I am not totally convinced. I will try it again later.

Scott Perry
10-26-2007, 8:06 PM
I'd like to see the original of that picture.


Ok, here ya go. This is the orginal that I took in 2004.