Need help on Wenge!

[Gene Collison]

I am in the process of making a jewelry box for loml. The top I am planning to make like a door with a rail and stile frame. I would like to make the panel with a panel raising bit from Wenge after I resaw on a BS. I have never worked with Wenge, is it going to be a big problem to raise a panel from it? What are its characteristics? Thanks for any help.

Gene

[John Piwaron]

I've heard that it's bit tough to cut. And that the splinters, if you get any, are painful and difficult to remove.

David Marks on Woodworks has built a circular mirror with 4 wedges for accents around the perimeter. when he cut the tapers onto them with his TS, it looked like the grain was bit splintery. Other than that, it looked normal, he glued the wedges in place with yellow glue.

[Mark Singer]

I have worked with Wenge very often. I like it ...but it is a little different. It splinters and they are sharp! It sands great! It planes great on a planer or jointer. On the raised panel try a scrap first. Back it ...to eliminate tearout at the edge of the board. It glues with Tightbond or West systems. The finish should be an oil finish like Daly's or Tried and True. Final coat should be wetsanded w oil and wet and dry 400 grit. Watch the splinters..

[Gene Collison]

I have worked with Wenge very often. I like it ...but it is a little different. It splinters and they are sharp! It sands great! It planes great on a planer or jointer. On the raised panel try a scrap first. Back it ...to eliminate tearout at the edge of the board. It glues with Tightbond or West systems. The finish should be an oil finish like Daly's or Tried and True. Final coat should be wetsanded w oil and wet and dry 400 grit. Watch the splinters..

Hi Mark,

I was hoping you would chime in, I remember your wenge table, the big one! You have pretty much answered what I needed to know about workability, thanks.... But one more question, this is the second time you have mentioned Daly's oil that I know of. Where are you getting Daly's locally? Thanks...

Gene

[Mark Singer]

Gene,
I send up to Seattle and get a gallon at a time. It is a wood that seems to be better worked with machines then hand planes. Sawing and sanding are fine...use a pair on gloves in the rough stages.

[Mike Johnson - Chicago]

I'll echo M.Singer's comments. Sharp power tools until the finishing stages. Then sandpaper. And watch out for the splinters! If you don't get it all out it will be irritated red and pussie(sp?) for weeks!

I also agree with an oil finish, but one thing you should be aware of is how the open grain will seep it back out! Make sure that where ever you are doing the finishing it is just as dry as a house with gas forced air :) Otherwise, you will be in for a sticky surprise!

Lastly, I probably take it farther than required, but it sands so nicely (that on a piece that will be touched) I sand all the way up to 800 or 1200grit...all wet with the oil(watco in my case). This results in a babies bottom feel!

The following pics are of a jewelry box I made my wife for X-mas a few years back. Due to the finger tab, I did sand this piece up 1200grit.

Regards,
M.J.

P.S. The other wood is Ribbon-stripe African Mahogany. This was my first time to see or use the combination...and was pleased with the outcome. I'll definately use the combo again.

[Tyler Howell]

Way Kool MJ.
Babies bottom Huh!

[Chris Padilla]

Mike,

That there is a sure purty box! I almost had my wife talked into a chunk o' Wenge for our mantle on the fireplace but then she saw some sample finish on some Walnut and that took over first place.... :)

[Mike Johnson - Chicago]

Tyler: Sorry man, with a 16month old at home...it's hard not to think in babby-terms!

Chris: I would lean toward walnut for a hearth as well, nice and warm...unless of course, I had a "crisp" house like Mark :)

Thanks for the compliments,
M.J.

[Ryan Singer]

THE THING ABOUT THE SPLINTERING...:eek: in your final piece, it happens alot.. and mostly on corners and edges. if you get one, you can usually glue back into place and work on another section while it dries.

...and Yeah! they do hurt like everyone has mentioned.. good luck!;)