Band Saw Cut - How Smooth?

[Scott Welliver]

I'm not sure if there is any good way to answer this question via text, but here goes: How smooth should a band saw cut be?

Note -- All the blades mentioned below are Timberwolf and all are brand new...

I've had my MiniMax MM6 for a few weeks now. I was running a 1" 4tpi blade and thought the cut quality was pretty decent. Not table saw smooth, but pretty darn smooth. Same with the 1/2 14tpi blade. No complaints.

Today I tried the 1/8" 14tpi blade and was very disappointed. It left a very rough, or "ridged" cut. I tried tensioning loose via timberwolf's "flutter" procedure, and I tried bringing the tension up much higher. No difference. I've tried cutting faster and cutting slower. No difference.

Thinking maybe it was a bad blade, or perhaps that I setup the Carter stablizer wrong, I put on the 1/4" 14tpi blade and Euro guides. Same problem, a very rough cut with "ridges" no matter what I did.

The blades cut straight -- no problem with blade lead -- but leave a very "ridged" surface.

I'm new to this so I don't really know what to expect. Are ridges in the cut just normal for a 1/8" or 1/4" blade? How smooth a cut should I expect from this size blade?

Thanks,

...Scott

[Yuchol Kim]

So many suspects to give definitive answer. Combinations of wood thickness, feedrate, blade type and geometry, power, tension all play parts. One must feed the stock differently for 1" and 1/8" blades. Every blade is different. My main guess is that you have fed the stock too fast with the 1/8" and 1/4" blade you have. 14 TPI is a lot of teeth and depending on how fast you were feeding, might not be clearing chips fast enough. When chips aren't removed fast enough, blades wonder, heat up and create rough cuts. Also, you will never get close to the TS smoothness with a BS. I personally don't believe in "flutter", pitch tuning and all that. I increase the tension, make cuts and compensate up/down from what I see. Every saw, every blade, every wood, every thickness, every operator WILL affect how the cuts come out.

[Lance Norris]

I have a Grizzly 14" steel frame saw and I use an 1/8 and 1/4, both 14 tooth blades, and both cut smoothly. I have a Carter Bandsaw Stabilizer on my saw as well. Really helps me. You should have clean cuts that require little sanding. Take your blades to a local saw sharpening shop that makes bandsaw blades and have them cut and shortened a 1/2 inch or so. I had a problem with fluttering cuts and the blade was too large and I couldnt get proper tension. Shortening the blade fixed the problem. Now when I order blades from my local shop, I order them just slightly short and they are much better. Dont assume your blades are the correct length, even if they are a reputable brand.