Frozen set screws

[John Keane]

I went to change the blades on my Delta 12 1/2" planer only to find that several of the set screws are frozen. The wrench that comes with the planer started to strip the screw heads so I stopped. I have sprayed them with WD 40 and will let them sit for awhile. I would like not to have to drill then out, so I am looking for advice from more experienced folks than I.

[Jamie Buxton]

On my planer, the set screws are down in threaded holes. Very fine sawdust gets in there and coats the threads. If I don't clean out the holes before I try to back out the set screws, they come out a turn or two and then jam. I've learned to suck out the dust with a soda straw hooked to my shop vac, and they come out normally.

[harry strasil]

try gently tapping on the screw heads.

[Chris Barnett]

Don't know if WD40 has the penetrating action of real penetrating oil. Although I have several cans of WD 40, I use Liquid Wrench which is a penetrating oil and also a solvent, for problem threaded fasteners, with good success.

[Keith Starosta]

I recently had the exact same problem with my Delta 6" jointer...

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=66307

I spent the $6 on a can of PB Blaster, and it worked really well on all but two of the set screws. Those were stuck beyond anything. I ended up taking the advice of the guys that talked about using a Dremel and a cutting wheel. I sliced through about 90% of the shaft, and was able to carefully back the screw the rest of the way out. I'm going to replace all 12 of the set screws, and do careful maintenance moving forward. :rolleyes:

Good luck!!!

- Keith

[Ed Peters]

tapping on the set screws with a steel hammer and a blunt ended steel punch. The suggestion to clean the threads first is also sound. Another thing to remember in this situation is to turn towards tighten first before you attempt to back out.

I am not familiar with this machine so what are the set screws doing anyhow? My craftsman 13" has socket head cap screws holding the blade gib over the blade and my 15" Grizz has jack screws to jam the blade in place.

Ed

[John Keane]

M5 X 35MM socket head screws. Steel hammer and cold chisel tried that. It is hard to clean the threads when the screw is tightly in them.

I squirted them with liquid wrench, and will try tomorrow. All the comments are appreciated.

[Bob Wingard]

One other trick is to heat the area and apply a candle until it melts in .. . then continue heating for a bit longer. The candle wax will seep into the threads and lubricate them so the screw will come out quite easily.

[Don Hein]

I have the best luck with Kroil on frozen/stuck. Carried in autoparts stores.

[Bill Brehme]

PB Blaster is better than Liquid Wrench. ;) It kinda fizzes its way down into the threads. Oh yea, throw away the wrench that came w/ the jointer... get a quality allen wrench with a crisp new edge and go slowly to make sure you are getting a good bite and slightly nudge it. Put a dab of silver Antiseize on the grub screws (the new ones) when you put it back together.:)

[Dennis Lindhorst]

I had a similar problem- finally used a cold chisel and tapped the offending screws out- set the chisel against the outer edge of the screw and gently tapped them until they turned. I found replacements at a local hardware.
I also cut the end off the Delta provided wrench, just to make sure I have nice crisp edges. I've had this plane for many years, and have only had one problem- but it was with several screws.

[Chet Kagel]

When I have frozen or rusted screws I apply brake fluid where it can soak in around the threads. Then I tap the head of the screw, bolt, etc., give it about 5 minutes for the fluid to soak in, and then remove the screw. I got this tip from a forklift mechanic and have used it several times.

[David Epperson]

All sound advice. Only things left out would be have a screw extractor tip ground off to just fit the hex and if that fails and you do end up having to drill them, use a left handed drill bit - as soon as the bit drills enough to loosen the screw it will unscrew the set screw the rest of the way out.

[Bob Fraser]

This may sound like an odd approach - but I have also had luck with what the electronics industry calls "Chill Spray" in freeing frozen screws and nuts.

Since metals contract at different rates, sometimes a shot of freeze spray after the penetrating oil, will do it.

Just don't wop it when it is frozen, if it is cast iron.

for what its worth,
Bob

[Gary Keedwell]

All sound advice. Only things left out would be have a screw extractor tip ground off to just fit the hex and if that fails and you do end up having to drill them, use a left handed drill bit - as soon as the bit drills enough to loosen the screw it will unscrew the set screw the rest of the way out.
Yea, I just used a left-handed drill bit the other day. Recommend using a center drill to get it started. I broke my drill bit and now have only one left-handed bit left. Time to re-order a few things..
Oh boy!!:eek: Now where's that catolog...fun time....:p
Gary

[Roland Chung]

I don't know if they have a small enough bit for what you are doing, but here is a link for a screw extractor. I got something like this from Sears and I have been seeing a nice set available at the woodworking shows. It probably works like the left handed bits that the guys are talking about.

http://www.ronhazelton.com/tips/Grabit_Screw_Removal_System.htm

[Chris Parks]

First heat it very hot, a large soldering iron or small propane torch will do then freeze it with a chilling spray. This breaks the bond every time though a lubricant will help in the final unscrewing.

[Irvin Cooper]

John,

I have had the same exact problem on the same exact planer.

Take a punch or cold chisel and tap it on the right side of the bolt head. Should pop it loose.

Best of luck.

Irv

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Wintergreen oil is the penetrator of preference for a lot of old school air craft mechanics. I think you can get it at a pharmacy.