Almost worked...

[Todd Fulton]

I decided to try and vector cut a piece of mirror today. (waiting for the "Oh Nos")

12" X 12" piece of mirror tile from Lowes.

I made my vector file, put the speed on 10% and power 100%. I tried cutting it on the coated side. Made a nice cut. Tried it 3 more tries. It looked like it would take about 10 passes to actually cut through. I slowed the speed down to 1%.

WOW!!!

It cut for about 1/4" and shattered the mirror. Thank God for safety glass.

Oh well. I tried. Maybe try again later.

[Tom Cullen]

You're a brave man Todd! not something I would have tried , would rather wait until someone else gave it a shot LOL!

Tom

[Joe Pelonio]

I do stained glass and wondered if it would score the glass as I normally do by hand with a glass cutter. I tried it within a few days of getting the laser set up.

Yes, it will make a mark on it that looks the same as the glass cutter but no, it will not snap after that. The laser score is apparently not deep or sharp enough to do the same job as the wheel.
What's more, after laser scoring I could not run the wheel over it because it's roughed up from the laser and would ruin the wheel.

[Mitchell Andrus]

10 bonus points for trying - I've run a lot of odd stuff through my machine but I never even thought of cutting glass.

[Eric Allen]

I did this as an experiment one day. I'm not sure if you are using a "runner" or not to break the glass (looks like pliers with one concave and one convex edge in the jaw for those that know what I knew 4 months ago:) ) but the laser did make a score, it was only good for about 3 inches though. If I tried to break it any farther, it veered off. My next test that I haven't gotten around to yet would be to cover the area to score with wet paper and make the score. That should allow the use of higher power with less surrounding fracturing. From my first test I'm thinking it would be easer to use the laser to cut a pattern and follow that with your regular glass cuttern.

[Joe Pelonio]

I did this as an experiment one day. I'm not sure if you are using a "runner" or not to break the glass (looks like pliers with one concave and one convex edge in the jaw for those that know what I knew 4 months ago:) ) but the laser did make a score, it was only good for about 3 inches though. If I tried to break it any farther, it veered off. My next test that I haven't gotten around to yet would be to cover the area to score with wet paper and make the score. That should allow the use of higher power with less surrounding fracturing. From my first test I'm thinking it would be easer to use the laser to cut a pattern and follow that with your regular glass cuttern.
I tried it using both my groziers and the ball on the self-oiling cutter with no luck. I've never used running pliers because I can usually snap the glass by hand easily, which didn't work with the laser score.

Cutting a pattern on the laser means that the rough score, when followed, would quickly dull the glass cutter blade, and is more work than a white paint pen or black sharpie.

If the laser would cut clean through the glass it would be a big help, short of that it's probably not useful except for etching a signature on my work
and for cutting a vector file on card stock for the pattern. I used to do that with the plotter on paper but card stock is a lot easier to trace onto the glass.