Edge gluing: Is epoxy right for me?

[George Carion]

I'm having a tough time edge gluing panels with Titebond III. I'm too slow, and by the time I finish applying glue to the last edges the first edges have already dried enough to where the whole process is ruined. Talk about frustrating.

Is there a better, slower drying epoxy I can use? How do you apply the glue to your edges? My finger isn't working very well.

Thanks.

[Jamie Buxton]

I use PVA, spread by finger. Epoxy cures more slowly, and might solve your problem. But if you spread it with your finger, clean-up is a challenge. Urea-formaldehyde cures slowly, and your finger can be cleaned with warm water and soap. (DAP's Plastic Resin Glue is available in small quantities.) The drawback to both epoxy and urea-formaldehyde is that they're two-part adhesives; you must mix them before use.

[Jim Becker]

PVA can be a challenge for large glue-ups, but with planning it's still possible to pull it off. I'm not having a problem with TB III for the most part, even with the dovetailed drawer boxes I recently assembled. I just insure I have everything ready to go, including my clamps set just a bit wider than I need, a glue brush there and so forth. Then, it's a matter of working quickly and without distractions. For a really large glue-up, you may need to do it in stages.

[Howard Acheson]

I'm having a tough time edge gluing panels with Titebond III. I'm too slow, and by the time I finish applying glue to the last edges the first edges have already dried enough to where the whole process is ruined. Talk about frustrating.

Is there a better, slower drying epoxy I can use? How do you apply the glue to your edges? My finger isn't working very well.


There are two things that come to mind. First, go through at least one complete dry fit before glue up. Even mimic the application of the adhesive. The dry fit ensures that everything fits and gives you a chance to be sure the clamps are preset correctly. Second, there is no reason to do the whole glue up at one time. Separate it into two or three sub-assemblies. It will go a lot smoother and take out the angst you seem to be having.

As to adhesives, use either the TB II Extend or the new TB III. Either should give you ten minutes to work with. I was taught and I teach in my classes to use an acid brush to spread the glue. Some times I will use an old credit card. If I have lots of edges to glue, I will use a 4" wide touchup paint roller. NEVER USE YOUR FINGER I was taught and teach. It will just create a mess and cause glue finger prints on the wood. These won't show up until you go to apply a finish.

[Greg Funk]

Put glue on two edges at a time and then put the pieces together. They don't need to be clamped but if they stuck together the glue will not skin over.

Greg

[Bill Ragland]

Put glue on two edges at a time and then put the pieces together. They don't need to be clamped but if they stuck together the glue will not skin over.

Greg

Great idea. That's exactly what I do when gluing up 4 or 5 boards for a door panel. Another way is to glue up 2 or 3 boards, clamp and let set for 30 minutes, unclamp and then glue up 2 or 3 more and after 30 minutes, glue those two panels and clamp together. Increases your time but gets it done.

[Charlie Plesums]

Occasionally I mist the wood with a spray bottle of water so that the wood doesn't suck the water out of the glue so badly. This extends the open time substantially. Incidentally, I prefer the equivalent of Titebond I which is water soluble...I can clean up my mess-ups (not easily, but it can be done), and it's water resistance is ample for indoor furniture.

[Mike Cutler]

I'm having a tough time edge gluing panels with Titebond III. I'm too slow, and by the time I finish applying glue to the last edges the first edges have already dried enough to where the whole process is ruined. Talk about frustrating.

Is there a better, slower drying epoxy I can use? How do you apply the glue to your edges? My finger isn't working very well.

Thanks.

Epoxy can have a very fast, or very slow "pot life". It all depends on the ambient temperature, the specific brand of epoxy, and the hardner selected.
Epoxy is very adaptable. One of my favorites if T-88, a structural epoxy adhesive. Very easy to use, and pretty forgiving on the exact ratio required, 50/50.
Epoxies aren't for everyone. You have to be a little more careful ( neat) during glueups and use blue painters tape on the joint edges. I pretty much use epoxy exclusively.

[Dixon Peer]

I read somewhere recently that one can re-activate PVA glues by heating them, as with an iron. I forget where I saw that, but it was one of these forums I think. So, if you're edgebanding a project and the PVA dries before you're ready to go, you can presumably salvage things by using heat.