Cutting lid from box on TS

[Jared Cuneo]

Most of the box making books I have recommend cutting the lid of a larger box off at the TS. The recommend cutting it shy and finishing with a utility knife.

My question is, is this a safe procedure? There is basically no way that I can see to be clear of a kicked back box due to having both hands on it, not to mention the fact that if the box disappears, you are essentially pushing your hands right into the moving, unguarded blade.

I have two boxes waiting to be freed from their lids and they will not fit under the bandsaw.....I'm a little uneasy about this cut.....

JC

[Lance Norris]

I always cut completely through 3 sides and then tape shims in the kerf of the 3 cut sides and cut the last side all the way through. I never liked the utility knife method.

[richard poitras]

I always cut completely through 3 sides and then tape shims in the kerf of the 3 cut sides and cut the last side all the way through. I never liked the utility knife method.

In regards to Lances method it works but you have to make sure the wedges don’t slip out when cutting, One way to do it is about the same but instead of taping it you hot melt it together and cut the last leg of the box, then just snap the lid off very safe.

[glenn bradley]

I prefer to attach scrap on the inside along the cut line before closing up the box. The upside is that you can cut all the way through your box material (but not through the scrap). The downside is that you have to attach the scrap somehow and if that screw hole, brad hole, whatever will be visible this is undesirable.

If your box is already assembled or the previous method will leave visible scars; Lance's method works well if the shims are attached somehow. "Somehow" can be tape for all you care as the already cut side will not be riding on the table. What you don't want is for them to fall out and leave you in danger of kickback or a ruined piece.

[Randy Denby]

I learn something almost everytime I log in here !....I really like that idea of using hot melt glue .

[Bill Huber]

I just cut shy and then finish it with a knife, its easy and fast and I have never had a problem with kickback.

[Randy Denby]

I just cut shy and then finish it with a knife, its easy and fast and I have never had a problem with kickback.

Thats the way I've always done it too....besides it gives me a reason to use my hizoot Lie Nielson block plane. I love that tool!!!

[Lee Schierer]

I prefer to attach scrap on the inside along the cut line before closing up the box. The upside is that you can cut all the way through your box material (but not through the scrap). The downside is that you have to attach the scrap somehow and if that screw hole, brad hole, whatever will be visible this is undesirable.

If your box is already assembled or the previous method will leave visible scars; Lance's method works well if the shims are attached somehow. "Somehow" can be tape for all you care as the already cut side will not be riding on the table. What you don't want is for them to fall out and leave you in danger of kickback or a ruined piece.

Attach your scrap with double sided tape. You only need it on the long sides of the box. The short sides get cut first and don't need the support.

[Mike Goetzke]

I know this isn't productive, but, havn't you seen the post on re-sawing with a shaper (should work for a box top too):D ?

[Jim Heffner]

Most of the box making books I have recommend cutting the lid of a larger box off at the TS. The recommend cutting it shy and finishing with a utility knife.

My question is, is this a safe procedure? There is basically no way that I can see to be clear of a kicked back box due to having both hands on it, not to mention the fact that if the box disappears, you are essentially pushing your hands right into the moving, unguarded blade.

I have two boxes waiting to be freed from their lids and they will not fit under the bandsaw.....I'm a little uneasy about this cut.....

JC
I second Lance's idea...for a shim to hold open the kerf I would pre cut to size a couple paint stir stick s and use them. They are about the same thickness as the average saw blade, also free from paint store and are throwaways when you are thru working.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I must have missed all of those books as I have always made my tops separate ( but I've never "read" anything on box making). Sounds like a good idea though. Now, of course, I have to try it.