Router Table: With or without mitre channel? (Pro's & Cons?)

[Jim Kaczmark]

Dear experts: Question... do you prefer a router table with or without a mitre channel? What do you feel the pro's & con's are?

I'll be mostly using my router table for cabinetry, but may use it for a door or two if I don't decide to get a shaper instead for that heavier task.

[Jimmy Seckel]

I think a mitre channel makes the table weaker and more likely to sag, you can use something like this for featherboards without cutting up your table:

http://jointech.com/Graphics/images/optaccess_fb-27_a.JPG

Not sure if there is anything else you would use the slot for other than featherboards?

[William Nimmo]

Use it all the time for the coping jig.

[Jim Kaczmark]

Sagging could be an issue. My router table will be on the right hand end of my Sawstop, and thus will be 30" wide. May need to consider beefing it up from underneath with angle iron either with or without the mitre channels. Angle iron could also be the basis for a router housing that I could quickly disconnect for access to the Sawstop's innards.

[Jimmy Seckel]

Good point, didn't think about the coping jig. Without a mitre channel you would need a coping jig that rides on the fence. I know Jointech makes one, probably incra as well but if your going with a conventional table you will probably want the mitre slot.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I have had a router table with and without a "mitre channel". An earlier table sagged noticeably at the channel. Bummer! I now use a sled that rides on the Incra fence, and find no need for a channel.

[Dick Bringhurst]

My table also is in the right wing of my table saw and I have a mitre slot in it. If it is done corectly sagging will not be a problem for any type of table. I have an Incra fence but still use the slot for coping. Dick b.

[Jim Kaczmark]

What about setting up feather boards for any "heavy routing" that I may do in the future? If so, a feather board attached to the Incra fence could hold the wood down to the table, while a feather board attached to the mitre slot could hold the wood against the fence... come to think, if routing any wider / heavier boards such as a door rail or style, (albeit without a shaper), I may even want to move the mitre back from the center of the router bit quite a bit further than the "standard" 6-1/4". Anyone agree, or am I missing another way to hold stock firmly to the router? (Granted I'd eat away at a heavy cut & not make the cut all at once.)

[Roland Chung]

How about that Benchdog cast iron router table that I almost bought on Sunday. Has a miter slot, can't sag and would allow the new magnetic featherboards and jigs to be used anywhere on the cast iron surface.

Also, I think that the more conventional benchdog router tables, made of MDF and phenolic skins, have an added on aluminum piece that has the miter slot. It might have other problems that I am not aware of, but this design does not compromise the table strength by cutting a slot through it.

RC

[Jim Kaczmark]

I'll be attaching my router table to a Sawstop on the right side. Thus the BenchDog cast iron table wouldn't lead to the "cleanest" fit between the table saw rails. They look fabulous though!
Jim

[Bob Feeser]

Dear experts: Question... do you prefer a router table with or without a mitre channel? What do you feel the pro's & con's are?


http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/5228/2635753640100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

[Jason Beam]

No way ... for a coping operation, I use a SQUARE scrap block with a handle added to it that runs against the fence (a la the Rosendahls). Works better than any coping sled I've used. Grant you, I haven't used THAT many. But then for me, it ain't broke :)