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View Full Version : What can you put on a new TS to prevent water rings?



Bill Wyko
10-02-2007, 3:47 PM
Is there anything you can put on the surface of a table saw to prevent water damage such as setting a glass on your saw?:cool:

Gary Keedwell
10-02-2007, 3:53 PM
I just put some wax on every once in awhile. I have learned over the years to keep my beverages on the side of my shop where I assemble and watch TV.
Gee, your a woodworker aren't ya? Make some darn coasters:eek: :rolleyes: :D

Gary K.

Bill Huber
10-02-2007, 3:56 PM
Just good old Johnson's paste wax.

Now a good way to loose a hand in my shot is to set a glass of anything on my saw...:D

Eric Gustafson
10-02-2007, 3:59 PM
It is not what you put on your saw to prevent rings... it is what you do not put! :rolleyes:

Mitchell Andrus
10-02-2007, 4:02 PM
A picture of a Colt .45

Chuck Lenz
10-02-2007, 4:03 PM
You guys are too funny, great replies.

Bill Wyko
10-02-2007, 4:16 PM
It is not what you put on your saw to prevent rings... it is what you do not put! :rolleyes:
Eric some of them were from you too.:D

Chuck Lenz
10-02-2007, 4:18 PM
Eric some of them were from you too.:D
Ut OH ! :eek:

Bill Wyko
10-02-2007, 5:08 PM
My BIL Eric and I like to sit and have a drink and a cigar at days end and talk about, what else, woodworking. We sit next to the tablesaw and chat so we're both guilty of this crime. So rather than solve the crime, I'd like to solve the Problem. Because i wouldn't have it any other way. I enjoy my drink and cigar too much to make any changes to that.:D I'll try the wax.;)

Mike Goetzke
10-02-2007, 5:20 PM
Not only water:

I T9 and wax my CI table regularly but I had some damp cedar I was working with and placed some chair slats on my TS. As I removed a few of them I could see faint brown/yellowish marks on the CI. Couldn't believe how fast/sensitive CI will rust. I was lucky - a quick pass with some paste wax took the marks away.

Mike

keith ouellette
10-02-2007, 5:29 PM
small scrap plywood makes a good coster.

Greg Sznajdruk
10-02-2007, 5:38 PM
Anyone set a glass or bottle on any cast steel surface in my shop would be sining soprano at the church choir.

I'm so paranoid that even scrap wood is not left on the tools.

Greg

Bill Wyko
10-02-2007, 6:05 PM
We really try not to let this happen but sometimes we have 2 drinks and get a little forgetful.:eek: :cool: :)

glenn bradley
10-02-2007, 8:31 PM
Yeah, I think you've caught the drift here . . . coasters. I've got a PC cork coaster but it never gets near my iron. I do use paste wax to protect my cast iron but I do not put condensation prone containers or coffee cups for that matter, on them. I did have a 1970's C-man that had a water ring when I bought it used. After a foolish amount of work I realized it was never coming out without going in DEEP. Bummer.

Jim Becker
10-02-2007, 11:32 PM
Um...the best solution is obvious...put the drink on the bandsaw table. That relocates the potential for rings from the table saw as you desire. :)

Seriously, most coatings will protect fine if you "catch" the problem right away, but I don't think that anything is completely protective if the drink sits and sweats for awhile.

Bob Feeser
10-03-2007, 12:16 AM
Bill,
Don't mind if I have a little fun with this. You have to understand, there are many of us who consider the cast iron top of their table saw as the holy grail. I know I reprimanded a friend for pressing his oily, and sweaty, and salty hand on it. I immediately give it a wipe with WD-40 and a paper towel. So with all due respect, I think it would be fun if we had a "Asking me how to put a drink glass on my tablesaw is like...???"
Let me launch.
Asking me how to put a drink glass on my table saw is like asking me how to protect my television when I place a target on it, during target practice with my 22.
Or how to protect my 100 dollar bill when I throw it in the fireplace.
Or how to protect a wedding gown when you fall asleep with a cigarette. :eek:
Or how to place an open cup of used motor oil on the fine sanded and ready for finish cherry armoire that you spent 6 months building.

Did you see the recent tv commercial where the drink spills into the electronic control panel of the power plant, and it shuts down a whole city.
I couldn't see a drink sitting on top of the saw, doing the same thing, getting into the motor, and trunion, with the possiblity of starting any rust, even if just on the cabinet.

To take your question a little more seriously, I have an experience that relates to your question. I have ductwork in the basement where my shop is located, and during the summer, I leave a fan in the window, to keep the air flowing to prevent moisture mildew problems. Then when I turn on the central air, the humid air would condense on the ductwork, and then it would rain down on whatever was below it; which included my PM 8" jointer, and my old sears cast iron top table saw. If it got near my PM66 I would have ripped out the ductwork. (Just kidding) Anyhow, a simple cover made from a construction grade trash bag from home depot, with thick plastic, protected the tools, and it is handy. I finally realized that if I close the windows, and shut off the fan when I run the central air, and leave a couple of vents partially open to dry out the air, I no longer need to put the trash bags on the 2 pieces of affected equipment. No humid air, no condensation and drip, problem solved.
So anyhow if you must place a drink on your saw, use a heavy duty 32 gallon trash bag from home depot, so even if it spills, it will not wind up in your saw. I still think it is odd, what about the outfeed table, or the long arm of your fence guide, and more. Best thing is break out a couple of horses, and place a waste board on it, or something like that. Any reason why it has to happen on top of the saw?

Norman Hitt
10-03-2007, 4:37 AM
Is there anything you can put on the surface of a table saw to prevent water damage such as setting a glass on your saw?:cool:

Well Bill, if you're going to use the saw for a picnic/refreshment table, just get you a red & white checkered Oilcloth tablecloth and throw it over the saw when the wood cutting is done, and you can even set your ash trays on there too. You might even want to get one of those old wine bottles and put a candle in it, (nothing like having the right atmosphere at refreshment time, eh)?:D

Russ Filtz
10-03-2007, 8:00 AM
I store my cross-cut sled on my TS. Serves as a sacrificial surface!

Jeff Raymond
10-03-2007, 8:44 AM
Don't let a fat girl who sweats a lot sit on your TS.

Now that's a problem.

Randy Denby
10-03-2007, 9:00 AM
Good looking girl.....no problem :)

Mark Gordon
10-03-2007, 9:02 AM
I have kids and a wife, and they go through the garage (MY GARAGE!) and everything gets put on top of tools. I also live in Florida and actually had rust form from the humidity in the air almost every day. Trashbags actually made it worse.

Tried wax, other coatings, ect. Then I got T9 and i've never had a problem.. you can see where this is heading: Picture this:

Morning, man entering shop, yawns and then eyes fly open: zoom in on wet umbrella on the uncovered unisaw overnight, slowmotion as man flings coffee down and lunges towards the saw... (slow motion. it's early) then he swipes the offending thing away and stares at the damage.... ..... then starts to smile Nothing. (Nothing at all) wrong, no rust no stain.

Fade out... all is well.

Would make a great commercial. but it's true. Now I T9 everything every 6 months, and never worry. YMMV.

Then again, cork coasters work well to.

Gary Keedwell
10-03-2007, 9:03 AM
Don't let a fat girl who sweats a lot sit on your TS.

Now that's a problem.

Wow Jeff....now that is what I call a Multi-purpose table.:eek: :)
Gary K.

Bart Leetch
10-03-2007, 9:50 AM
It's whats between your ears that will prevent water rings on you cast iron tool tops.

Gary Keedwell
10-03-2007, 9:53 AM
It's whats between your ears that will prevent water rings on you cast iron tool tops.
Bart...Do you mean were supposed to put our drinks on our heads?:confused: :p
Gary

Richard Magbanua
10-03-2007, 10:03 AM
:eek: If all this "drinking" is leading to wild and crazy activities like putting your glasses on your tablesaw, one has to wonder what it is you're drinking? The woodshop may not be a very safe place to be during this time! The next thing you know you're leaving the glue bottles open, leaving the laser lights on or, heaven forbid, forgetting to take the tension off of your bandsaw blade!

Anyway, how about using insulated mugs from the gas station? I use them for SOFT drinks, but they'll cut down on the condensation.;)

Lee Schierer
10-03-2007, 12:25 PM
I was recently in one of the borgs and in the shelving area, they had some rubber mats for lining drawers. I picked one up to use as a sanding pad. It is 24 X 36. If I were of a mind to set wet things on my table saw, I would ceratinly protect it with either the oil cloth suggested above or the ruber sanding pad.

At my previous job, we were quite successful using T9 to protect cast iron surfaces. It helped against condensation and hand prints, but did not stop rust from dripping water that was left ont he surface overnight. The T9 was about 10 times better in rust prevention than paste wax alone.

Bill Wyko
10-03-2007, 12:59 PM
I think I have a solution.....cup holders off the side and down low:D Actually this all started when the sheet rocker was doing the Sheetrock in the shop when I was building it. His crew set all their drinks on my new table saw which had been covered in plastic when I went to work and had put several rings on it when I wasn't there. Why the plastic had been moved still remains a mystery. I had made a post about that months ago about my frustration. Now that the saw has been replaced there will be no more cups on the saw, or any other cast surface for that matter. I think I will create some sort of creative cup holders to go in various places in the shop. Remember it gets very hot here in AZ so you must drink plenty of fluids. I don't like any kind of glass bottles around so plastic cups are the vessel of choice. At least with cup holders you have a go to place for your beverages. Fortunately my main choice of beverage is just Ice water for most of the year and coffee in the winter. I do enjoy a good cup o' Joe when I'm contemplating the next task. Plus now that I have a saw that's untouched by even wood at this point I can keep it pristine. The only other person that will be doing work in my shop is the electrician and I'll make it very clear that if he puts a ring on my saw....It will become his saw upon replacement of it. My BIL an I actually use insulated glasses that are not supposed to sweat and do seem to work very well. Again cup holders will be created for this issue. In my mobile elecronics business We've actually built custom cup holders that were 200 bucks so the customer wouldn't spill on his custom console. At least I've got practice. I'll post pics once there done.:)

Eric Gustafson
10-03-2007, 1:37 PM
Actually this all started when the sheet rocker was doing the Sheetrock in the shop when I was building it. My BIL an I actually use insulated glasses that are not supposed to sweat and do seem to work very well.

...and you were blaming me! :o

Bill Wyko
10-03-2007, 2:12 PM
Eric we both added to the ones that the drywallers had done but we get a new start now. Fear not, I'll put a cup holder on your side too.:D

James Carmichael
10-03-2007, 3:00 PM
Coasters:confused:

James Carmichael
10-03-2007, 3:07 PM
Don't let a fat girl who sweats a lot sit on your TS.

Now that's a problem.

What about old guys who sweat a lot?

It takes me about 10 minutes on a hot summer day to be dripping on my cast iron machines. Paste wax pretty well does the trick, but I may try the T9.

Bart Leetch
10-03-2007, 3:09 PM
I was recently in one of the borgs and in the shelving area, they had some rubber mats for lining drawers. I picked one up to use as a sanding pad. It is 24 X 36. If I were of a mind to set wet things on my table saw, I would certainly protect it with either the oil cloth suggested above or the rubber sanding pad.

The made for routing or sanding pads will flow water through from top to bottom. I purchased 1 to do sharpening on top of & if I'm not careful I find water underneath on the bench top.

Cliff Rohrabacher
10-03-2007, 3:15 PM
I try to drink the beers After running the equipment~!!

Bart Leetch
10-03-2007, 3:44 PM
Bart...Do you mean were supposed to put our drinks on our heads?:confused: :p
Gary

Well Gary if the drink fits wear it.:eek: :)

David Epperson
10-03-2007, 3:52 PM
I try to drink the beers After running the equipment~!!
I would suspect that everyone else does too...which is why we're not discussing the prevention of bloodstains. :D
Watch you fingers...it makes them easier to find later!.

Al Willits
10-03-2007, 4:07 PM
Well..considering only a lightweight would ever set his/her/it's drink down in the first place, I think ya just got to become more serious about your drinking, then ya won't have that problem......

Made the mistake of mentioning I needed top cleaner just before X-mas, so now I'm working my way though several different jars/bottles/tubes of top cleaner/saver/protectant/dehumidicant/lubercant/waxes, and a tube of cosmoline.

Rust don't scare me none...least for another 587 oz's of stuff....:D

Al

Gary Keedwell
10-03-2007, 4:12 PM
Well..considering only a lightweight would ever set his/her/it's drink down in the first place, I think ya just got to become more serious about your drinking, then ya won't have that problem......

Made the mistake of mentioning I needed top cleaner just before X-mas, so now I'm working my way though several different jars/bottles/tubes of top cleaner/saver/protectant/dehumidicant/lubercant/waxes, and a tube of cosmoline.

Rust don't scare me none...least for another 587 oz's of stuff....:D

Al
Hey, Christmas is around the corner....time to make some more "mistakes"(tools....tools....tools....tools)
Gary

Bill Wyko
10-03-2007, 4:22 PM
I try to drink the beers After running the equipment~!!
The only time I'll have a drink is when I'm done working. I'm real proud of all my fingers and would hate to leave any of them out, if you know what I mean.:eek: :D

Al Willits
10-03-2007, 4:22 PM
""""""""
Hey, Christmas is around the corner....time to make some more "mistakes"(tools....tools....tools....tools)
Gary
"""""""""""


Ya, not asking for anything that isn't either sharp or have a power cord coming out of it, short on paper towels, but ain't mentioning that....:)

btw wd-40 and sotchbrite works great for rust you find under a pile of sawdust that you left sit on the saw while you spent 5 days fishing.

Al...who nows removes sawdust from cast iron...duh..shoulda known:)

Bob Feeser
10-04-2007, 11:46 PM
Seems like most people prefer wax. I tried wax, although only one coat, I must admit, but I wound up with a little rust. All I had to do was put a hand on the surface, and the next day rust was starting.
I use WD40 and it works for me. Just a paper towel, a light misting over the clean surface, then I wipe it in. Even if the saw sits for awhile, it doesn't rust. It get's a hazy film on it, but no rust.
I have the table saw cleaner kit, with a scotch brite pad, and some solution that I used when I got a few rust spots starting, but now that I have started using WD40 I have never had to do that again.
When I wipe it down, with a dry one when I am done, it leaves a thin coat on, but not enough to affect the wood that slides over it.
Like WD40 says, "It frees stricky parts" It doesn't hurt the blade or the components either, and it makes the top look shiny, deep, and well treated. I noticed the wax didn't look so good.
I love wax, I just didn't have much luck with it on my cast iron surfaces. I know it is an industry standard, so I am probably swimming upstream on this one.

Bart Leetch
10-05-2007, 12:45 AM
Seems like most people prefer wax. I tried wax, although only one coat, I must admit, but I wound up with a little rust. All I had to do was put a hand on the surface, and the next day rust was starting.
I use WD40 and it works for me. Just a paper towel, a light misting over the clean surface, then I wipe it in. Even if the saw sits for awhile, it doesn't rust. It get's a hazy film on it, but no rust.
I have the table saw cleaner kit, with a scotch brite pad, and some solution that I used when I got a few rust spots starting, but now that I have started using WD40 I have never had to do that again.
When I wipe it down, with a dry one when I am done, it leaves a thin coat on, but not enough to affect the wood that slides over it.
Like WD40 says, "It frees stricky parts" It doesn't hurt the blade or the components either, and it makes the top look shiny, deep, and well treated. I noticed the wax didn't look so good.
I love wax, I just didn't have much luck with it on my cast iron surfaces. I know it is an industry standard, so I am probably swimming upstream on this one.


Bob I don't quite know whats going on here accept you should have started out with at least 3 coats of wax.

I have my Dads 1955 Craftsman contractors saw that he used daily in his cabinet shop & was kept up with wax in a uninsulated shop with cedar siding over brown paper on bare studs & heated with a wood stove never any rust. I have a 1940 Unisaw that is waxed & doesn't have rust.

I treat the Unisaw 2 bandsaws 2 planers & 2 drill-presses & 2 shapers with wax & no rust. The shapers & big planer were my Dad's so you already know how they were treated before I had them.

Besides that the wax will make your table top slicker to slide the material across.

Bob Feeser
10-11-2007, 1:06 AM
Bart,
You and 10 thousand other people prefer wax, so you are not alone. I am sure it works properly, especially when you start off with 3 coats. Everyone who loves using wax, at least some of them mention the 3 coat rule.
As much as it shouldn't matter, I have a PM66 with a top that came polished like glass. I love the look. It is not as perfect as it first arrived, but it still has a real nice surface on it. I know this sounds silly, but the WD40 brings back that glossy surface. I can let my cast iron tops sit in the basement shop, and it does get damp in the summer, (I just noticed my Tru-clamps rusting) and it gets zero rust.
The other thing I like about WD40 is that it takes all of 30 seconds to put on, and I do not need to put it on very often.
This may be a vanity thing, but I tried the wax, it dulled the surface, took a while to put on and rub off, even for a single coat, and with a single coat it gave me a fine coat of rust the next day from a sweaty hand print. I don't get that with WD40.
I'm sure wax is a great way to go. Even my Dad's old 1950 Sears tablesaw looks good with the WD40 on it. It works for me.

Bart Leetch
10-11-2007, 1:18 AM
[QUOTE=Bob Feeser;673421]Bart,
You and 10 thousand other people prefer wax, so you are not alone. I am sure it works properly, especially when you start off with 3 coats. Everyone who loves using wax, at least some of them mention the 3 coat rule.


Live & learn!!!

I have a buffer!!!

WD 40 doesn't make the top slick for the wood to slide easier!!!

BUT HAVE IT YOUR WAY!!!

It isn't the saw or the waxes fault!!! I & lot of people already know this!!

Have fun make chips.......