Folding Adjustable height table

[Nissim Avrahami]

Good day

I made this table for different purpose but, I will not tell you which one because you will laugh at me...

But, while working on it in the garage, I thought that I can use it also as an adjustable height table for the Drill press, table saw, router table and alike to support long boards.

The base is two frames, M&T (made with the "rolling tenon jig" on the table saw), connected with bolts as an X...the top can be any plywood, melamine or whatever.

If I would make it for the shop, I would make it from more "massive" wood, say 2" x 4", wider footprint and maybe pipe clamp for height adjustment so, I can use it also as a low (or high) assembly table

I did not have intention to post it but then, I thought, maybe it will give somebody some ideas so, here it is.

Regards
niki


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Folding%20table/001.jpg


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[Nissim Avrahami]

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Folding%20table/011.jpg


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[keith ouellette]

Looks good. I can't say how well it will work but it was a great presentation.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Thank you Keith

Well, you know how your President is elected...presentation...:)

And how they sell cheap stuff like it's Mercedes....presentation...:)

And I will not comment about woman.... :)

So, length wise the stability is very good but, width wise, not so good but the base width is only 14".
That's why, I recommended to make it from 2"x4"s and wider, say, 24" base width.

Regards
niki

[Dave MacArthur]

Nice!
You are a gifted inventor, who happens to work in wood ;)

[joe greiner]

Superb idea, Niki. Especially the fine adjustment and the removable top detail.

The more robust 2x4 construction might be more suitable for heavier loads, but I think you could also increase its transverse stiffness by adding some "X" braces. A total of four X's on the outboard side of each frame. Upper braces from the top crosspiece to the hinge, and the lower braces from the hinge to the lower crosspiece. If you put them on the outboard faces (i.e. not flush), I think it would still fold up without their interfering with the main frames. For each frame, its cross braces would be on opposite sides of the frame, because the "outboard" face changes sides at the hinge. It could also be stiffened a little bit more by using a full-length threaded rod for the hinge, with double nuts on each side of each frame. The 2x4's might be stiff enough without any of the cross bracing, though.

Thanks for sharing your amazing imagination.

Joe

[Nissim Avrahami]

Thank you so much Dave and Joe

The original intention of this table was.....when I'm cleaning the tops in the bathroom, toilets, kitchen, cabinets and shelves...(yes, I'm doing part of the cleaning in the house), I like to remove from the tops all the "art collections" so it's easy to clean in one shot all the top.

Instead of bending to put the things on the floor or, move them to another place, I just put all of them on this table, clean and return them.
Like this, I'm rolling the table from room to room so the cleaning is easy and fast.

On the pics below you can see the latest version

Joe
As I mentioned, this table is for cleaning and it's stable enough also as an Infeed or Outfeed table (I just remove the wheels), for heavy duty, I'm going to make one out of 2 x 4 and maybe use the Ponny pipe clamp to adjust the height.

Regards
niki


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/TR01.jpg

Note; When I want to use it as an Outfeed adjustable table, I remove the two L hooks and screw them on the other side to hold one leg firmly
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/TR02.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/TR03.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/TR04.jpg

[Tim Lynch]

Niki, thank you for your posts. They are always great and very helpful.

I'm wondering if the bottom brace/fine adjustment mechanism could have been integrated into the table top instead. Fine adjustment could be made from a standing position by reaching just under the table top. Or would that introduce flex in the lower part of the legs?

[Nissim Avrahami]

Thank you Tim

Yes, I think that it can be done, I just did not think of it before but, it will be more complicated that the stick with the dowels because you shall need some means to hold the mechanism up-side down.

If the upper, horizontal part of the frame was wider, it could be done with a threaded rod that goes through an elongated holes and knob but, my intention was that the table will be fast "open-fold".

If you have intentions to leave it "open" all the time, you can do it.

Regards
niki

[Tim Lynch]

Possibly a series of dowels across the underside of the table for the rough positioning of legs, and a fine tuner at the edge of the underside of the table for final adjustment?

[Tim Lynch]

Or likewise the legs could have dowels pointing up that insert into any of a series of holes along the underside of the table.

In fact, if the fine adjustment side was affixed to the legs and also used dowels which poke up into holes the underside of the table, the table top itself could simply be a piece of pegboard of any size. It's not the sturdiest material, true, but the legs would then be "universal" and could be used with any scrap of pegboard.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Thank you Tim

Well, I think that you are saying "there are many ways to strip a cat"...

Your idea with the dowels protruding from the table and the other one with the peg board are very good.

When I'll build the "heavy duty" one I will try some ways including your ideas

Regards
niki