Cutting Board Question

[Trent Flemming]

Hello Creekers,

I would like to make a cutting board like the Wood Whisper's. However, I don't have any 8/4 purple heart. Would it be acceptable to glue up two layers of 4/4 and then proceed?

Thank you

Trent

[Jess Wetherhold]

You are going to have some funky glue joints. I would not consider it.

[Dan Forman]

I thought I've seen that done with other woods, don't know if purple heart has particularly "iffy" glue joints though. I don't see why it would be any worse that the joints holding the rest of the board together.

Dan

[Jess Wetherhold]

Let me clarify "funky joint." When you make your cuts to expose the endgrain you will be exposing that glue joint all over the face of your board as well as on the sides. IMHO I do not believe that you will pleased visually since it will not be a mirror image of the contrasting maple. If this does not bother you then by all means...glue away:) I make these for a living so I am a tad finicky.

[Steve Milito]

Let me clarify "funky joint." When you make your cuts to expose the endgrain you will be exposing that glue joint all over the face of your board as well as on the sides. IMHO I do not believe that you will pleased visually since it will not be a mirror image of the contrasting maple. If this does not bother you then by all means...glue away:) I make these for a living so I am a tad finicky.

I'm going to tackle a board in the near future. Are there any woods to avoid?

[Benjamin Dahl]

Steve, avoid softwoods. You will see many different ones out there but maple, walnut and cherry are some good domestics to go with. If you want to go with exotics I would stay away from oily ones that are difficult to glue-up. I am sure there are many other opinions out there and wait to see what else is said.
Ben

[Bill Huber]

I have made 6 of them now and I had the same problem, so I went to Ebay and found it. I watched the bids and got some really cheap, and it is good looking purpleheart.
I also got my maple the same way, if you just watch Ebay you can find it and can get it at a good price if you watch the bidding.
At this point I have orders for 4 more with a lighter look, more maple and less purpleheart.

An end grain cutting board is really great and it has a different feel to it then long grain. The first one I made is in my kitchen and the wife just loves it, they are great cutting boards.

Here are my last 3 that I made, if you note on the one I changed the pattern and some people like it better.

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[Jim King]

Anyone who has wood and glue can make a cutting board, Good simple glue and good clamps and you are there. I just made 2500 and have not seen a problem. You people up there worry about the strangest things it is hard to understand.

[Gary Keedwell]

:eek: Did you say 2500? And that was before lunch time?:rolleyes: :D

Gary

[Dan Forman]

Let me clarify "funky joint." When you make your cuts to expose the endgrain you will be exposing that glue joint all over the face of your board as well as on the sides. IMHO I do not believe that you will pleased visually since it will not be a mirror image of the contrasting maple. If this does not bother you then by all means...glue away:) I make these for a living so I am a tad finicky.

Gotcha now! Maybe the ones that I had seen were all glued up from 4/4 stock. I seem to remember the effect was bookmatched endgrain, that was quite attractive. I hadn't considered the inconsistency of the grain if only one variety was glued up in such a way.

Dan

[Jess Wetherhold]

Jim- Sorry, I have a bit of OCD. I didn't know I was "up there" but I am strange and I worry.:rolleyes:

Dan- my bad for not elaborating in the first post but I am glad that you understood my response. I am positively horrible at explaining my practices.

Trent - I would be happy to ship you the required stock at cost to me + shipping but I am not sure what shipping would be or if would even be worth your while.

Steve- avoid most exotics. There are several charts on the net and I am sure that you can find a few on this forum as well that will explain the levels of wood toxicity.

2,499 to go! I'm a slacker...

[Bill Huber]

Trent, one more thing, I would cut a groove around the top, it really helps. The first two I did I didn't cut the groove and then went back an cut it. It really makes it much nicer when cutting things like tomatoes so the juice does not run all over the counter.

You really have to watch it that you don't burn the wood, it really burns very easy. I have a plywood template that I double back tape to the top of the board and then use a guide on the router to cut mine. I make shallow cuts and keep moving and never slow down.

I am sure you know this but when I stated I was trying to go all the way around without taking the router out of the groove. Well then a light went off and I start at the far right corner and then make a pass to the near left corner and then lift the router out as I am moving. Turn the board 180 degrees and to it again, that was the only way I could cut the groove without a burn mark somewhere.

Good luck and we want to see one when you get it done.

[Trent Flemming]

Thank you for the great tips and help. The members of Sawmill Creek are excellent. Jess I may take you up on your offer. I will know more later this week. I am going to pickup a new/used planer this afternoon and the seller may have some purple heart. My brother is also checking a hardwood supplier he pass by while working the oil fields.

Bill those cutting boards are really sharp.

Thanks again,

Trent

[Chuck Saunders]

Jess, I think when you are in Peru like Jim, most everyone is "up there"

[Jim King]

But never again, this was a serious job. AND BORING. Not to mention you cannot move in my little model shop. What you can see are only bout 200 so you can imagine what the rest of the place looks like.

[Bill Huber]

But never again, this was a serious job. AND BORING. Not to mention you cannot move in my little model shop. What you can see are only bout 200 so you can imagine what the rest of the place looks like.


So what are you goint to do after lunch?

[Eric Gustafson]

But never again, this was a serious job. AND BORING. Not to mention you cannot move in my little model shop. What you can see are only bout 200 so you can imagine what the rest of the place looks like.

OMG! :eek: I hope you profited from that work! How long did it take?

[Matt P]

But never again, this was a serious job. AND BORING. Not to mention you cannot move in my little model shop. What you can see are only bout 200 so you can imagine what the rest of the place looks like.

That's a heck of a lot of cutting boards! Did you have orders for them, or are you just sure of the demand for them?

[Jim King]

Matt:
Yes it was an order and they would like more.

[Trent Flemming]

Hello All,

I managed to get my hands on some 8/4 Purple Heart, but they didn't have any 8/4 Hard Maple, will 8/4 soft maple work on an end grain cutting board?

Thanks
Trent

[Basil Rathbone]

Bill, any chance you could post a pic of your template and router guide setup for making the groove? I am not smart enough to re-invent the wheel and wouldn't want to screw up what would be my first cutting board. Thanks.

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Wow! I am amazed. What was this for? You have me curious about the job, the type of woods you used, how you did them, and the entire story. Please describe the whole thing!

[Bill Huber]

Bill, any chance you could post a pic of your template and router guide setup for making the groove? I am not smart enough to re-invent the wheel and wouldn't want to screw up what would be my first cutting board. Thanks.

They are not much at all.

I use a Bosch Colt router with a 1/2 inch bushing and a 1/4 inch core box bit.

I cut a piece of 1/2 plywood 1 1/2 inches less then the width and 1 1/2 inches less then the length of the cutting board. Round the corners, I us a 1 inch radius on the corners. This give a very round corner that is easy to go around with the router. Center it on the cutting board and double tape it to the board.

You really have to watch it that you don't burn the wood, it really burns very easy. I make shallow cuts on slow speed and keep moving and never slow down.

Start at the far right corner and then make a pass to the near left corner and then lift the router out as I am moving. Turn the board 180 degrees and do it again, that was the only way I could cut the groove without a burn mark somewhere.

The other template I use is the one to cut the hand cutouts on each end, just a rectangle with stop blocks glued to the under side to go against the end of the board and then a use the same router and bushing and a straight bit to route out the hand cutouts.

Hope this helps.

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