HelpAdjusting Powermatic 63 TS

[Skyp Nelson]

I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I can't seem to get the truion(sp) to move to the left.
Background.
Made dial indicator jig.
Checked blade alignment and found it .035 off.
Finally installed PALS.
Still .035 off.
Tried to adjust, and the truion will only go right, increasing the error. When I tighten the right adjust screw on the PALS, it moves the truion about .002, then "walks" off the truion.
I've tried loosening the front truions, but that only throws the front of the blade off, reset the DI, and still can't get better than .035.
I can push on the motor, and it will move, but I believe I'm only working the slack in the angle adjust, and again, it throws the front of the blade off.
HELP! http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowcry.gif
If I didn't give enough info, please ask me questions.
I love my saw, and I hate to think I can't make her right.
TIA

[Jeff Booth]

I got my PM63 off a craigslist type BB for $50. It literally came in several boxes of hundreds of pieces. Original owner was not mechanically inclined and one bad experience with the pulley on the blade shaft got him to dissassemble everything down to the last bolt, nut and washer.

After a few hours of puzzle assembly I had the basics put together. To get my trunnion to run true parallel to the table slots I created a jig to hold a dial indicator (against the blade) that could be slid up and down one of the table slots and show the distance to the blade. Once I had that ready and the blade correctly positioned 'the first time' it took me over an hour to get the damn trunnion tightened without it moving. There are 4 bolts in the 4 corners and I had to get them all pretty tight and gently tap the trunnion with a hammer each time I cranked a little harder on one of them. It was a real neck straining experience. Eventually I got it done within 0.001" .....

Reading your post, I think I would take the belt off and worry about the motor after getting the trunnion set and tight. You can always adjust the motor position, there are about 4 bolts with 1cm of slop in 2 directions for the motor to motor holder. Adjusting the motor is not fun either, but decoupling the problem makes it easier to attack. That is how I did mine and I can imagine that it would have been impossible with the belt tension pulling on the pulley as well, like I said - with nothing pulling on it I still spent an hour getting it tightened because each crank on one of the four bolts would move it.

Only later did I learn that cabinet saws have the trunnion and table both independently mounted to the base so that the table is removed for maintenance and then one needs only true table to trunnion rather than the other way around. Much easier that laying on the concrete floor with a socket and long extension and reaching in with a mallet to tap......

Best of Luck to you.

J

[Skyp Nelson]

I had the belt off the whole time. Where excatly did you tap it with the hammer. Also, everytime I crank the 45*, and then back, if's off again.

[Ken Seiler]

I am a PM63 and the same problems.

I was unable to get enough movement in the trunion to get the blade parallel. I was finally able to get it aligned by loosening the bolts on the 'link bolt'(rods that the motor bracket hangs on).

I have the same problem with a 45 degree cut. Make one and I need to realign.

I wasn't sure what PALS was but did find some info. Since I can't move the trunion enough, not sure if this would work for me.

Ken

[Skyp Nelson]

Which picture is what you're talking about?

[Ken Seiler]

It's the picture on the left, items labeled 'B'. Take a few turns on the nuts on each bar and you should be able to move the trunion enough.

Not sure if that was the right way to do it but it was the only way to be able to move thr trunion enough to get the blade realigned.

Still can't understand why it gets out of whack when making a 45 degree cut.
Ken

[Norman Hitt]

Skyp, Ken, Jeff, (and any others) that are having trouble aligning your Contractor OR Cabinet saw, the best HOW TO article I have ever seen published, (complete with step by step instructions, Pictures and a full explanation of all the how' & why's), was in American Woodworker issue #124, October 2006, on pgs 71 through 75, by Richard Tendick. It even tells you how to shim the front or rear Trunion Bracket to correct the alignment problem when blade is tilted, as you have mentioned in your posts.

I'm not familiar with your particular saws, although I have aligned and tuned a number of different Contractor and Cabinet saws, and one thing that must be done is to first loosen the two rear, Trunion bracket bolts, and then both of the front trunion bolts, but leave one of the FRONT trunion bolts fairly snug. Next, to help the process considerably, is to use a small "C" clamp and clamp the trunion to the trunion bracket at both the front and back brackets. This keeps the trunion aligned with both of it's brackets during the alignment process, and eliminates any slop between the trunion and it's brackets that can allow errors later.

The process for shimming the brackets to correct the alignment when tilted is too long to describe here, and I don't have a scanner, but if you can't find a copy of the article I mentioned, you can PM me and I could make you a copy and send it to you by Snail mail.

I don't know if this might apply to your saw that won't adjust far enough one way or not, but I have had a couple of saws that I had to take a round file and elongate the bolt holes slightly in the rear trunion bracket so it would adjust far enough in that direction to be in proper alignment, but first, you should try moving the front trunion bracket the opposite direction from the way you are trying to move the rear one, and this may swing the blade around far enough to make everything work.

It sure is easier aligning my PM 66 than my Contractor Saws have been.

Hope this helps.

[Ken Seiler]

Norman

I just PM'ed you. At your convenience, copy and send me the article you mentioned. I have a scanner and can email a copy to others.

Thanks

Ken

[Skyp Nelson]

I was able to get the back copy. It's availible at thier website, and the cost was $6.00

[Ken Seiler]

Just received and scanned a copy of the article mentioned by Norman. If anyone wants it, just PM me with your email id. It is approximately a 1 meg file.

Ken