Festool Sander...which one?

[Scott Rollins]

My Ridgid sander has died. After many years of use (and yes a lifetime warranty) I am ready for a sander which does not leave me numb. I want to stick to one size sander either the 125 or the 150 (for consumable standardization). So the question is...
Which Festool Sander first? The RO150 or the ETS 150/5 or 150/3. I am leaning toward the RO125 or ETS125 because the sanders and consumables are cheaper. Any advise is appreciated. BTW I will be using a dust vac..just not the festool yet.

[Jim Becker]

My go-to sander is the 150/3...it's hooked up to the CT 95% of the time and close at hand. I do agree with the idea of standardization for consumable efficiency. For me, that was the 150/3 and the original Rotex, both 6" machines. If you want to stay with 5", than you can do the same thing. But the ETS125 isn't quite the sander that the 150s are...IMHO. Others may disagree.

[Gary Keedwell]

My Ridgid sander has died. After many years of use (and yes a lifetime warranty) I am ready for a sander which does not leave me numb. I want to stick to one size sander either the 125 or the 150 (for consumable standardization). So the question is...
Which Festool Sander first? The RO150 or the ETS 150/5 or 150/3. I am leaning toward the RO125 or ETS125 because the sanders and consumables are cheaper. Any advise is appreciated. BTW I will be using a dust vac..just not the festool yet.
I wrestled with that dillemna for a long time. I was afraid that the 6" was going to be too big, because I always had a 5" ( sander, that is) :)
I finally ordered the 150/3 and haven't looked back since. As Jim has said...it is a smooth sander.
Gary K.

[James Phillips]

I like the Rotex 125. To me the smaller sander is more comfortable to use.

[Bob Michaels]

Like Jim said, my go-to sander is also the 150/3. A bit of caution though, let the machine do the work. Putting pressure on the sander creates heat which, in turn, fries the hook and loops. Replacing the pads cost 34.50 per pop.

[Cary Swoveland]

My go-to sander is the 150/3...it's hooked up to the CT 95% of the time and close at hand. I do agree with the idea of standardization for consumable efficiency. For me, that was the 150/3 and the original Rotex, both 6" machines. If you want to stay with 5", than you can do the same thing. But the ETS125 isn't quite the sander that the 150s are...IMHO. Others may disagree.

I would agree with Jim's advice, though I would push a little more strongly for the 6". Keep in mind that you have more than 40% more surface area with a 6 over a 5. If you have any concerns that the 150s (being heavier and more powerful than the 125) may be tiring to use or hard to control, forget it--they are a delight (well, as much as any sander could be).

Since Jim also has the Rotex, it makes sense that he got the 150/3, rather than the 150/5 (and I understand the /3 outsells the /5 by quite a margin [is that right, Mr. Marino?]). However, if you don't plan to get a Rotex, consider the /5. I have the /5 (no Rotex) and am extremely happy with it. Though I've never used a /3, I like the fact that, presumably, it is a little more aggressive than the /3 at lower grits. The /5 leaves a beautiful finish at 180, which is generally the finest grit I use on bare wood. I usually finish up with a couple strokes with a sanding block anyway.

Cary

[Scott Rollins]

Wow. Alot of quick responses from respected members. I am surprised that the 150/3 is the go-to sander. Although was leaning towards this as the finish sander is the most important. I was also wondering...is it true? Can one really use this sander as a finish surface? Will I still need to sand by hand with the grain to get rid of the "squiggles" I stain many surfaces very dark and an imperfect surface shows the sanding marks very clearly. I always must spend several hours on finish sanding to fully erase previous ROS sanding from my now deceased ridgid sander.

[Gary Keedwell]

You will get noticeable less squiggly marks with the Festool 150/3 or/5 then with most sanders, but I don't like to take a chance on ruining expensive wood, so I always finish with a sanding block of the same last grit of the sander. But that is just me.:rolleyes:
Gary K.

[Tim Sproul]

Can one really use this sander as a finish surface? Will I still need to sand by hand with the grain to get rid of the "squiggles"

Your "squiggles" come from a variety of causes:

1. Corning - Ineffective dust collection combined with inappropriate abrasive type, too high a speed and too much vacuum suction. For raw wood, the Rubin papers are highly recommended since they corn the least. An adjustable vacuum - shopmade gates and such are effective too - will help with an overly powerful vacuum. I can have problems with corning and most times it is because of the combination of too much suction and using Brilliant paper rather than Rubin.

2. Moving the sander too quickly across the surface. Slow it down. Sand the surface with just 2 slow passes rather than 10 faster paced passes.

Most times I don't need to hand sand if I take care during my power sanding with the Festool sanders.

[Gary Keedwell]

I think the sqiugglies are still there..you just don't see them with the naked eye.
Gary K.

[Bob Marino]

...and I understand the /3 outsells the /5 by quite a margin (is that right, Mr. Marino?). CaryYes, correct!

Bob

[jason lambert]

I have both the 150/5 and the 150/3 for all around the 150/3 I think the 5" is cute and might be berrte in some cases but the 6" is just more useful and cuts my sanding time. If you want one though why not a rotex unless you are just using it for finishing sanding.

[Greg Funk]

I have both the 150/5 and the 150/3 for all around the 150/3 I think the 5" is cute and might be berrte in some cases but the 6" is just more useful and cuts my sanding time. If you want one though why not a rotex unless you are just using it for finishing sanding.
Jason,

How does the rotex (in ROS mode) compare with the 150/3 sander?

Greg

[Steven Wilson]

Greg, I have both, as well as a couple of other Festool sanders, and the Rotex is heavier, a bit harder to control, and doesn't sand as fine as the 150/3. It's more like the 150/5 in terms of surface quality but the ergonomics aren't as good. I really like the 150/3 as a finish sander (say from 100 grit on) and the Rotex for surface shaping and other tasks (buffing the boat, polishing sinks, sanding drywall, etc).

[Scott Rollins]

I see more utility in the Rotex 150. Also think that the surface would probably be smoother with the 150/3. My choices are narrowed down to these. I am heading down to woodcraft tomorrow to try them both out. I will be coming home with one or the other (both would be ideal:D ). Thanks again for all of your input. It has helped me to move toward the 6" to try to save time sanding. BTW I used a scraper and a sanding block to get rid of my "squiggles". Scraping out the Red Oak was quick and left an amazingly smooth surface. I hated to rub it down with 150 and 180 to unify the flat shelf surfaces with the edges and match other previously stained and finished parts.

[Jim Becker]

How does the rotex (in ROS mode) compare with the 150/3 sander?

The Rotex in ROS mode is pretty much the equivalent of the 150/5, albeit with a different handle and different "handling". (I cannot one-hand my Rotex comfortably like I can the 150/3, although I have the older version and the current one is a little better designed from a handle perspective)