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View Full Version : Transfers and Bumper Stickers - Letter Xfer to car window



Gary Gilbert
09-24-2007, 4:30 PM
I would like to make my own transferred letters for an ad on my car.
I know the vinyl cutting people basically cut out the lettering on an adhesive material, you take it to the window (or surface) and carefully apply it.

Now - what material can I use to make a transferred letter on my laser machine? I would like an adhesive that I can transfer to my car and apply it, but not cut through the material so I have it on the transfer.

I would like to use white material for my back window.
I would like to use a lighter color (white, gold, silver) for the back
or side of my car.

I didn't see any technical libraries on this, and the LaserFoil products would be just fine - but I need to be able to transfer that to the car.

Let's just say I want to say "Gary's Lasers" in letters as a vector cut, then keep that whole alignment, transfer to my window, and apply it.

Any tricks, traps, or guides that have already been posted?

Thanks,

Gary

Joe Pelonio
09-24-2007, 4:44 PM
Laser foils, sign vinyl and even laserlights can be "kiss cut" on the laser so that it goes through the material but not the backing, but it's not easy. The setting has to be perfect and the material perfectly flat.Then you still need to weed and apply transfer tape to apply to the car.

You can get around this by cutting through the whole ting, then weed, put the letters back where they were inside the weeded background backing, then apply the transfer tape.

The problem with other than sign vinyl is that it may not be outdoor durable
for very long.

Sign vinyl (cast) will go 7-8 years on a car window. Laser foil is meant for awards and may not last long outside, and I don't know about laserlite's outdoor durability either.

mike klein
09-24-2007, 4:46 PM
I've tried some of the laser thins from Rowmark b4 I got the vinyl machines but it didn't hold up very well outdoors. In about a year is started fading real bad, and not only that, its a bear to get off the vehicle compared to using reagular vinyl.

Mike

Kevin Huffman
09-24-2007, 5:01 PM
The main thing you want to watch out for when cutting vinyl is make sure you are cutting PVC based vinyls. You want to use the Polyester based vinyls. Engraving/Cutting PVC is harmful not only to you but also your machine. It rusts all the stainless steel in the machine.

Other than that, I have a lot of customers who are doing this application.
Tips are going to be usually 100% speed and a mid to higher power (depending on wattage of your machine). The trick is getting it not to burn to much (especially the white). You just have to do a couple of tests before you find the right setting.

Tracey Bakewell
12-07-2007, 1:01 AM
Kevin, who is a good vendor to purchase the polyester based sign vinyl from? I have a customer who wants to create interior art like signs. She will be painting the wood, and I will be cutting out the letters to place on the wood so there is no issue with outdoor fading. I don't think any of the foils would be good for her projects, just regular vinyl colors.

Thanks!

Mike Null
12-07-2007, 8:35 AM
I'm sure the warnings about cutting vinyl are well founded but at the last place I worked we had 2 Epilog 100w machines and we engraved our vinyl glass masking all the time. Where we could, we applied the vinyl to the glass and engraved then did the sandblasting. If, because of a compound shape we couldn't do that we would use spray adhesive on some scrap metal, put the vinyl on that and kiss cut it.

This was done on thousands of awards and the was no apparent harm to the machines. They're 12 years old and still in use.

Still, I think all mfrs. advise against engraving it so you have to be the judge.

Joe Pelonio
12-07-2007, 9:09 AM
I did a lot of research on it including talking to vinyl manufacturers.

I found that vinyl films do not contain a lot of PVC, premium 2 mil if used on an occasional basis is probably not going to cause problems. I would not do it 8 hours every day though.

Kevin Huffman
12-07-2007, 9:50 AM
Hey Joe,
It doesn't matter if it has a small amount or large amount, the effect will be the same. I can always tell when a customer has engraved/cut PVC or Teflon. Their machine's stainless steel parts have started to rust. I know what your thinking, stainless steel doesn't rust......... But it does if it is exposed to burnt PVC or Teflon it does. The chlorine gas turns liquid and starts eating away. It takes a while but you will have to eventually replace parts due to the rust completely eating through them.

Tracey Bakewell
12-07-2007, 10:47 AM
It doesn't appear that Johnson Plastics carry any type of material to use for sign vinyl. Is there a good vendor anyone is using for this purpose? I searched google last night but came up with nothing but sign makers.

Scott Shepherd
12-07-2007, 10:58 AM
Tracey, a good source for vinyl is www.fellers.com . You'll have to look for a polyester product. They are limited, but you can buy things by the foot or yard or something like that. You'll get killed on shipping for a small amount.

Having a vinyl plotter and a laser, I can honestly say I wouldn't consider doing any vinyl work on the laser. The plotter is just so fast, it's not worth the trouble. There are a ton of people (a lot more than laser owners) who run plotters out of their homes. Find a local guy and work up a partnership and you may come out ahead.

If you have something in mind, or want something that I have the color for, shoot me a PM and I'll be more than happy to cut it and send it to you for free. It's just too simply to cut it on the plotter and be done with it.

Mike Null
12-07-2007, 11:18 AM
Kevin

I think it's more likely that a high carbon content in the stainless is responsible for the rusting rather than gas. I did the maintenance on the machines I described and there was no rust.

Also interesting to me was that when I was there the tubes were 10 years old, using a water chiller, and in a commercial environment and still going strong.

Scott Shepherd
12-07-2007, 11:57 AM
I haven't cut any PVC on my laser, but I do have some slight rust on the vector grid. When I cut clear acrylic a few times, I wet the paper on the back side of it. Noticed the next week that my table had some minor rusting down in the honeycomb.

Mike Null
12-07-2007, 12:11 PM
I was under the impression all the grids were made out of aluminum.

Yours is steel?

Scott Shepherd
12-07-2007, 12:15 PM
Appears to be stainless. It's non-magnetic.

Marc Myer
12-07-2007, 12:48 PM
Have you considered simply using acrylic? Lots of colors available, and they look much better because they're 3-d. Mirrored isn't bad either.
I make automotive emblems and then chrome them, and it works great. You can find some really effective doublesided tapes to attach them with. It only takes a couple of tiny pieces to hold a big item on your car. I've been doing this for years.

Mark Winlund
12-07-2007, 2:32 PM
I'm sure the warnings about cutting vinyl are well founded but at the last place I worked we had 2 Epilog 100w machines and we engraved our vinyl glass masking all the time. Where we could, we applied the vinyl to the glass and engraved then did the sandblasting. If, because of a compound shape we couldn't do that we would use spray adhesive on some scrap metal, put the vinyl on that and kiss cut it.

This was done on thousands of awards and the was no apparent harm to the machines. They're 12 years old and still in use.

Still, I think all mfrs. advise against engraving it so you have to be the judge.



My experience has been the same. I would not use a laser machine for exclusivly cutting vinyl, but the hysteria surrounding this issue is way overblown. I have used the laser for vinyl many times (when appropriate). We also have a vinyl cutter for big vinyl jobs. A glass stencil now and then will have no effect.

Mark

Mark Winlund
12-07-2007, 2:35 PM
Have you considered simply using acrylic? Lots of colors available, and they look much better because they're 3-d. Mirrored isn't bad either.
I make automotive emblems and then chrome them, and it works great. You can find some really effective doublesided tapes to attach them with. It only takes a couple of tiny pieces to hold a big item on your car. I've been doing this for years.



Do you mind telling us the procedure that you use to chrome them?

Mark

Tracey Bakewell
12-07-2007, 3:34 PM
K! So, I just setup an account with Fellers, just waiting on the pricing grid to show up under my login account, fingers crossed!

Marc Myer
12-07-2007, 6:59 PM
I have a chroming system called Cosmichrome. It applies like paint: base resin coat, a dual gun applied waterbased chrome coat, then a topcoat. It's a catalytic process; hard to get perfect, but it looks great.

Larry Bratton
12-07-2007, 7:03 PM
It doesn't appear that Johnson Plastics carry any type of material to use for sign vinyl. Is there a good vendor anyone is using for this purpose? I searched google last night but came up with nothing but sign makers.
Tracy:
I do a trick with my laser and my large format ink jet printer. I buy polyester based backlit film and print it. This is a front print material and we use a heat activated decal material and apply it with a hot laminator. Then we put it on a piece of clear acrylic. The way it's applied, your looking through the acrylic at the graphic. Put a light source behind it and it's very cool. We sold the last ones we made for personlized window signs for a RV club. This particular material can be used for other things too, makes dandy stencils etc and it's water proof.
http://www.lexjet.com/lexjet/product_disp.asp?dept_id=12072&pf_id=OB
Lexjet sells all kinds of stuff for printing and laminating. Amanda Mathewson there is a great sales person and will help you, if you find you can use any of their stuff.
Good luck!

Tracey Bakewell
12-07-2007, 7:28 PM
OK everyone, backup the bus!!! I am with her now and aparently what she really was talking about was actual stencils..

She's handed me something purchased from Michaels with fancy writing A-Z 1-0.

She just wants to be able to use specific fonts, I engrave out the stencil on similar material after manipulating the font in Corel draw so that it can remain in stencil form.

What's the best material for this? It's got a slightly rough surface but very flexible. And I'm thinking I'll just have to convert text to curves in corel and create little attachments to make it appear like a stencil?

Maybe I need to start a new thread now?

Anyone following this? Thanks!

Mike Null
12-07-2007, 8:22 PM
Tracey

I've used this oilboard stencil materail with very good results. Also there are several thicknesses of mylar which is laser engravable.

http://www.customcutstencilco.com/machine.htm