Lumber rack

[Wayne Watling]

Was out in the shop bright and early this morning with the goal to build a lumber rack and get some of my lumber off the garage floor so the wife can get the car garaged come the cold weather. It was a little unfair of me to take the equivilent of 2 garage places for my shop and then kick her out of the remaining 3rd space for my wood storage so I thought it wise to do something about it http://www.phoenixwood.ca/forum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

Going with the small shop maximum flexibility theme I found a rack design (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=18503)(by Kent Parker) that fit the criteria. This design allows me to assemble and dis-assemble the rack to suit the work I'm currently doing and the amount of wood currently being stored for projects. Initially I purchased 2 lengths of 1 5/16" OD black pipe from the borg and had them cut it into 2' lengths. I cut 9 x 8' lengths of 4"x4" and drill a bunch of holes using a 1 3/8" spade bit. This is the most critical part because you have to get all the holes perfectly aligned so the wood will sit on all the pipes and at the same time drill the hole at 5 deg angle (it will be 3 degrees when mounted because of the 1/16" slop in the hole)

The big table came in handy and the drill press has angular movement with 1 degree calibrations so it was all quite straightforward. The beams are secured using 4 x 3/8" x 8" lags, and are placed at 16" OC

Best,
Wayne

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/Lumber%20Rack/DrillingHoles.jpg

The dust collection was good, got all the shavings out of the hole quickly.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/Lumber%20Rack/Drillcloseup.jpg


The other night I painted the wall in preparation for the rack with 2 coats of CIT off white oil based.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/Lumber%20Rack/Before.jpg



Put on some lumber, everthing held up and we are good to go. Just need to get a some more pipe.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/Lumber%20Rack/RackFronton.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/Lumber%20Rack/RackRightSide.jpg



http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l227/woodworkingpics/Lumber%20Rack/RackLeftSide.jpg

[Peter Stahl]

Nice job Wayne. Don't think that's gonna fall off the wall. Looks like you got a really nice shop there.

[Bill Huber]

Man that looks like it should hold a whole tree or two.

Really nice looking rack, just wish I had room to put up something like that.

[Jim Becker]

Really nice, Wayne...and both stout and flexible!

[Jamie Smith]

Very nice. Much nicer than my setup (which isn't done yet).

What type of wood did you use for the 4x4s? Is that cedar?

[Bruce Benjamin]

Wayne, I like the way the rack came out but I have a couple of questions. What made you decide on that diameter of pipe? Do you think you could've used smaller diameter and still had plenty of strength? I am considering the same type of rack and smaller diameter pipe equals fewer $$$. It seems like pipe half that diameter would be stiff enough for a relatively short length. I'm planning on only having the pipe stick out from the wall maybe a foot. The smaller diameter would mean a smaller hole to drill, (obviously) and I might be able to get away with using a 2x4 instead of a 4x4 for the upright. I was planning on slipping some PVC over the pipe to keep it from possibly staining the wood.

The other question was about accurately drilling the holes. That's a lot of holes to drill and I can see that even with very accurate marking of the wood there would be some room for error in the actual drilling. After you attached the uprights to the wall did you check all of the holes with a level or straight edge to see if they are all exactly at the same height? I ask this because if a hole is too high or too low that could introduce some bow into the wood that was stored on the bars. Did you have any specific method or technique to ensure every hole was precisely spaced? I have a drill press that is set up similar to yours. Thanks for the info and the pictures.

Bruce

[Dave MacArthur]

didn't foresee ever saying this but, "nice rack Wayne!".

Bruce, I built one of these, not as successfully as Wayne, and maybe my mistake in your question area would help you. My first attempt was with 1" black pipe from HD. I used a hand drill to place the holes... big mistake, they were all cock-eyed and I had to toss the first standard. Then I made a wee jig of 3 chunks of 2x4 screwed together, to place over the vertical, and use as a "drill guide"--I had a hole drilled in it to guide the hand drill. This actually worked acceptably. The holes might be very slightly off from each other, but it was plenty accurate enough in actual use.

I ended up using 3/4" EMT for most of the holds, following your logic also, and found it was plenty strong...1/2" would likely work as well and give more strength to the verticals.

I have to say, Wayne's version is much better looking than mine! Nice job!

p.s.-- I actually used this project and the very slightly off center holes as my excuse to go out and buy a new drill press... if you don't do too much more research before starting, this might work for you also!

[Bruce Benjamin]

didn't foresee ever saying this but, "nice rack Wayne!".

Bruce, I built one of these, not as successfully as Wayne, and maybe my mistake in your question area would help you. My first attempt was with 1" black pipe from HD. I used a hand drill to place the holes... big mistake, they were all cock-eyed and I had to toss the first standard. Then I made a wee jig of 3 chunks of 2x4 screwed together, to place over the vertical, and use as a "drill guide"--I had a hole drilled in it to guide the hand drill. This actually worked acceptably. The holes might be very slightly off from each other, but it was plenty accurate enough in actual use.

I ended up using 3/4" EMT for most of the holds, following your logic also, and found it was plenty strong...1/2" would likely work as well and give more strength to the verticals.

I have to say, Wayne's version is much better looking than mine! Nice job!

p.s.-- I actually used this project and the very slightly off center holes as my excuse to go out and buy a new drill press... if you don't do too much more research before starting, this might work for you also!

That sounds good Dave. Thanks for the info. I will be using my drill press with a nice table and fence that I made for it. The alignment issue to which I was referring wasn't in centering the holes left and right but vertically. Meaning once the verticals are in place will the holes and pipes for each, "Shelf" all be at the same level? This is the same issue as trying to freehand shelf pin holes in a bookshelf. It can be done but it's much easier with a jig of some sort. I've drilled precise holes and made precise cuts many times over the years but the potential problem I see with this is that I'll be working with relatively long and heavy pieces of wood and a lot of holes in separate pieces. Not only is there the issue of drilling the holes but then mounting the verticals to the wall evenly. Not impossible at all. But plenty of room for error. Fortunately, 2x4's aren't too expensive so if I screw a couple up some how it won't be that hard to remedy.:cool:

Bruce

[Josiah Bartlett]

My wife hates it when I say this, but Nice Rack! I think I might copy your design.

[Wayne Watling]

That sounds good Dave. Thanks for the info. I will be using my drill press with a nice table and fence that I made for it. The alignment issue to which I was referring wasn't in centering the holes left and right but vertically. Meaning once the verticals are in place will the holes and pipes for each, "Shelf" all be at the same level? This is the same issue as trying to freehand shelf pin holes in a bookshelf. It can be done but it's much easier with a jig of some sort. I've drilled precise holes and made precise cuts many times over the years but the potential problem I see with this is that I'll be working with relatively long and heavy pieces of wood and a lot of holes in separate pieces. Not only is there the issue of drilling the holes but then mounting the verticals to the wall evenly. Not impossible at all. But plenty of room for error. Fortunately, 2x4's aren't too expensive so if I screw a couple up some how it won't be that hard to remedy.:cool:
Bruce

Hi Bruce,

Its not as difficult as it might seem, you just need to employ a few methods to ensure you get everything lined up at each stage of contruction. No jigs were necessary.

Marking the holes -
Line up all the posts next to each other ensuring that the tops are in alignment. From the top of each outside post measure down and mark the place for each tier of the rack (16" for mine). When you finished get a straight edge and draw a line across all the posts at each tier.

Drilling holes for pipes.
Set the angle of the table at approx 4-5 degrees.
Make sure the drill press table is solid. Re clamp the post to the table for each hole and make sure the clamps are tight, clamp on both side if possible. Its critical that the point of the bit be placed right on the vertical pencil line you drew across the post so take your time getting the point right on.

Fixing posts to wall.
Mark a string line on the wall from one end of the proposed rack to the other. You will use this at the hight line to place the two outermost posts.
Drill all the holes for the lag bolts through the posts. Take one of the posts, centre it on the left outer stud and to the height line and hit one of the lag bolts into the top hole using a hammer to make a mark for predrilling into the wall, drill the hole and attach the post using the single lag bolt (dont tighten it right up at this stage). Straighten the post using a level and mark the remained of the holes using the same method, swing the post off to the side while you predrill the remaining holes then screw the lags. Do the same for the outer most right hand post.

Attach a string line (as tight as possible) across the two outer posts at the centre of the top most pipe hole using a nail at each end, this will serve as the main level which you need to align all the other posts too.
-----


THat was a little convoluted but the devil is in the detail and that is how you will get it smack on accurate. There are probably 100 other ways it could be done but this worked for me.

Pipe thickness is important, dont underdo yourself here. Personally I wouldn't bother with anything under 3/4" unless you know for sure your storage needs are going to be minimal. With a length of 2' I had to use 1" because of the quantity of lumber that will get stored there, with a length of 1' you could possibly get away with less then 3/4 but for the minimal $ savings why would you bother. I'm not at all sure 2x4 would be adequate for the posts, if you have the budget I'd stick with 4" x 4" which is actually 3.5" x 3.5" that way you know you have enough depth to support the pipes under load.

Best,
Wayne

[Wayne Watling]

Very nice. Much nicer than my setup (which isn't done yet).
What type of wood did you use for the 4x4s? Is that cedar?

Cedar it is.


didn't foresee ever saying this but, "nice rack Wayne!".


My wife hates it when I say this, but Nice Rack! I think I might copy your design.


Thanks for the kind words gents :o

Best,
Wayne

[Kent Parker]

Great job Wayne!!

Now you just have to finish those pipes up by painting them to match your tools :D

Cheers,

Kent

[Tom Leasure]

Built a rack real close to yours. I used 1/2" black pipe 18" long but it tends to stain the wood sitting on them. went ot the local box store & purchased some thin wall 3/4" pvc - cut to length - went right over the pipe supports - problem solved

That's my 2 cents

Tom:cool: :cool:

[Wayne Watling]

Built a rack real close to yours. I used 1/2" black pipe 18" long but it tends to stain the wood sitting on them. went ot the local box store & purchased some thin wall 3/4" pvc - cut to length - went right over the pipe supports - problem solved

That's my 2 cents

Tom:cool: :cool:

Tom,

Thanks for the tip, much appreciated. At the moment I'm just storing very rought lumber but I might get PVC for one or two full racks and use that for any milled material or higher quality material.

[Bruce Benjamin]

Hi Bruce,

Its not as difficult as it might seem, you just need to employ a few methods to ensure you get everything lined up at each stage of contruction. No jigs were necessary.

THat was a little convoluted but the devil is in the detail and that is how you will get it smack on accurate. There are probably 100 other ways it could be done but this worked for me.


Best,
Wayne

Thanks for the details Wayne. Mostly I was wondering if there was some sort of spacing jig on your drill press of if you just eyeballed the tip of the bit onto the cut line. Nice and careful sounds like the trick for sure. Thanks again.

Bruce

[Nino Maini]

I'm mlooking to build the same type of rack system. I have a basement shop with poured concrete walls, I was going to go every 24" on center. Do you think I need to bring it down to 16" on center as the wood might sag? I have a free supply of old 6X6 and 1" OD pipe, so this will be very strong.....

[glenn bradley]

I had every 24" and moved to every 16". not so much in fear of sag along a long board but I always seems to end up with a board end that hung 22" out in space. Even that was OK till you started stickering other boards on top of it. Just my experience. Your use and mileage may vary ;-)

[Jim Eller]

Wayne,

That's a nice functional rack!

Question about the Gorilla filter stickin' out the wall. I take it that was to save space? Where's the plumbing??

Jim

[lou sansone]

great rack, but one word of caution.

black pipe is only painted with a crappy paint. if oak gets next to any type of iron/ steel and there is the least bit of moisture you are going to get a very nasty black stain on your lumber. if you have a section for oak, you might consider sleeving those pipes with some pvc pipe to prevent this from happening

lou

[Doug Carpenter]

I like the rack, but I can't stop looking at the tools!

Nice.

[Dan Gill]

I made a similar rack, only I used 2x4's on edge, and mine is only on the upper half of the wall. Under it I have my plywood and cutoff cart. I cut pieces of ordinary garden hose to cover the pipes so the metal wouldn't mark the wood.

What is the plastic sheet for?

[Rick Moyer]

just a thought-- if you go 24" it is easy to see how long a board is from a distance. I have occassionally found this to be a nice feature when needing a certain length board. (2-4-6-8-10-etc.)

[Ben Hatcher]

I build a rack like this a few weeks ago. 2x4s on edge are more than adequate even for 1" black pipe. 4x4s are overkill, but they do look nice.

[Joe Jensen]

I need a new rack solution. I had considered building something like this and ruled it out because I thought the crappy walls of my tract house might fall down with the weight. Now I see that a lot have built these. Anyone do anything special? my walls are 2 by 4 studs. I'd be storing about 500-1000 bd ft.

[Karl Card]

that is just slicker than,err well you know, just downright awesome..

[George Sanders]

Excellent work. Looks like it is built to last. I find one fault with your shop though. It's TOO CLEAN!! :eek: Get in there and make some sawdust! :D

[Chris Nolin]

Wayne, that rack is bomber! Nice work! Taking those 4x4s all the way to the floor would take any shear forces out of play on your lags.

Like others here, I'm also impressed with your shop and would love to see a shop photo-tour some time!

[Jeff Bartley]

I built something very similar to this using jointed and squared 2x4's sandwiched between 2 1/2" x 7/8" oak. This forms a sort of i-beam. These beams were then clamped next to one another and holes for the pipe were marked every 6". Beams were glued and screwed placing a screw between every pipe hole.
After the beams were ready I leveled a PT 2x6 on the concrete floor, attached a 2x6 to the ceiling and treated the beams like wall studs, cutting each to fit. As the bottom plate was level and the reference for the holes was from the bottom all the holes lined up.
I've built two of these now for different walls of the shop and the only thing I'd ever do different (provided I had the space) would be a double sided rack.
I'm curious if anyone can tell me if there's a difference in strength between galvanized pipe and the regular black pipe?
I just joined SMC recently; it's cool to see how others have implemented very similar designs!
Jeff

[glenn bradley]

I'm curious if anyone can tell me if there's a difference in strength between galvanized pipe and the regular black pipe?

I can't speak to the strength question and don't mean to just blurt out information but, black pipe can stain your material where galvo doesn't. The savings in cost between the pipe product would be quickly eaten up by fouled material I would think(?).

[Jim Rimmer]

Jeff:

Can't answer your question, but, welcome to SMC.