Silicone wax and wood finishing question.

[James Suzda]

After reading Nick’s post on using silicone based wax on his saw brings to mind a question. Has anyone actually had problems finishing any projects that were prepared on a machine that had silicone applied to its surface and was rubbed out, or is this just an “old wives” tale?
I could see problems of silicone being transferred to the wood if there were gobs of wax left on the tool or if the tool’s surface wasn’t buffed out and there was a wax residue that could be transferred to the wood.
(Inquiring minds need to know! ) :p
Jim

[Al Navas]

Hi, James.

You actually don't need gobs of wax or silicone to contaminate the surface of the wood. Like they say, a little goes a loooong way!

The way I see it, why risk screwing up your finish, if alternatives are available that are much safer?

You might want to run a quick test: Many people use WD-40 to help them remove rust from cast iron surfaces - I used to, until I ran into the silicone problem. Now, apply some WD-40 to you table saw surface, work the surface well, as if you were removing a rusty spot. Then, clean the surface really well, but leave a small area near the blade where the WD-40 is not removed so well. Now, go through the entire process as if you were going to finish the test piece. Apply some shellac, to seal the surface- you are likely to see fish eyes, indicating that the shellac has not wetted the surface properly. This is the problem with silicones.

I have completely removed all silicones, including WD-40, from the shop.


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[David G Baker]

At one time I thought that WD-40 would protect my saw top from rusting. I was wrong. I now use it to clean some things but never my saw top. Furniture wax for protection and manual labor with scotch bright for removing things.

[Gary Keedwell]

At one time I thought that WD-40 would protect my saw top from rusting. I was wrong. I now use it to clean some things but never my saw top. Furniture wax for protection and manual labor with scotch bright for removing things.
I would be very cautious of furniture polish. You would be surprised what is in that stuff:eek: :D

[Dan Tipton]

Silicones and finishes do NOT go together. Automotive manufacturing does not allow silicones in any shape or form in their paint shops -- just to avoid the fisheye problem. At one plant I was in, the paint shop manager required the HVAC contractor to remove and clean sealant with silicone from an HVAC duct, AND pay for cleaning the entire paint shop....

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Not a myth.

And silicones are in almost all automotive waxes.

Most good auto painters will insist on stripping the paint from a car before painting it. Inter alia, it's the silicones that are pandemic in the industry that forces this.
In the old days of lacquer painted cars you could be pretty safe just using a good wipe down with lacquer thinner to strip away to first few layers of lacquer and get off any contaminants but not today.

I still use WD40 but, I use it to do a thing it does very well - it displaces water and cleans. But Kerosene does this every bit as well as WD40.