Problems with Delta BS riser block kit

[Dick Strauss]

The problem I'm having is that the holes drilled to accept the original studs aren't drilled deep enough. As a result, the riser block won't mate to the base (it leaves a gap of about 0.050). The studs measure about 0.050 longer than the depth of the holes drilled in the riser block so the issue isn't mine. Granted I could spend some time grinding off the studs but it doesn't seem like I should have to do this to solve Delta's problem.

Has anyone else had this problem with their riser block kit from Delta?

Unfortunately I bought the kit some time ago from Amazon. Because my Timberwolf blades lasted so long, I didn't want to make the switch to the riser sooner. I plan to contact Delta about a replacement Monday.

Dick

[Doug Shepard]

Double check to make sure that your problem isn't powder coat related. You'll have to have bare metal on both mating surfaces as well as the pins and holes. A gap of only 0.05 suggests to me that it might be just excess powder coat and not actual pin length problems.

[Tim Morton]

I think I had the same issue a few years ago and cleaning up the powdercoat solved the problem.

[Dick Strauss]

This is not a powder coating issue. The bare metal studs are going into a bare machined hole. The top arm that came off didn't have any noticeable gap. I put the upper arm/wheel assembly back on to verify that there was no gap. The gap will make the upper assembly a little unstable since it doesn't have the large mating surface that it is desgned to have.

Am I being too picky? I don' think I should have to file/grind down the studs or drill the holes deeper to fix Delta's issue. Isn't that why you buy the Delta kit instead of an off brand?

Thanks,
Dick

[Jerry Allen]

No Dick, you have every right to expect it to fit right especially considering that it costs twice what it's Taiwanese kin do. (They may be made in the same shop, but Delta's QC is supposed to be superior.)

However, just because you're right doesn't mean much. You lose no matter what. Sending it back, paying for that and the delay sound worse than grinding or drilling .05. Personally I'd do the grind to avoid opening the holes.

I bought a Grizzly riser for my Taiwanese (Summit) band saw which was built in the eighties. I anticipated a potential mismatch and was willing to to redrill the mounting holes if necessary . As it turned out the pin spacing matched, but the edge spacing for the pins was off ~.10. I though about it for awhile and then just decided to leave it alone. Looks weird with the little offset, but it aligned just fine.

[Ray Knight]

The studs may not be threaded in completely. Double jam nut them and see if they thread farther in, if so your problem is solved. Alternatively while the double jam nuts are on, just turn them out, buy some studs just shorter enough to solve your problem. You are absolutely right this shouldn't be your problem, but life has enough hassles already. Let them know when you've fixed it, and let their response help guide your future purchases. Ray

[Bob Wingard]

Trim the dowel pins if you must, but DON'T try to drill the holes any deeper .. .. they are factory reamed for a precision fit .. .. if you drill them without the aid of a mill and locating fixture, you run the risk of elongating the holes and the dowels will not fit properly. The dowel pins will be hardened, so you can't file them .. . you'll have to either remove them and use a grinder, or drive them to their stops and use a side-grinder or something similar.