What can be used over BLO?

[Mike Conley]

I am working on finishing a craftman style end table. It is the one that was in Woodsmith a few years back.

I was planning on doing BLO, garnet shellac, and then varnish. I have already applied the BLO and shellac, however I am not satisfied with how the shellac is looking. There are so many corners and spindles that it makes it hard to prevent lap marks and ridges in the shellac.

If I can't get the shellac looking good, I may remove it and try something else. What can be used over BLO to add the color that I would have gotten from the Garnet shellac?

[Jim Becker]

What you are likely experiencing is the fact that shellac is not like varnish. You have to work quickly and not revisit areas...the wet edge is not optional. It's kinda a skill-building thing. Edges that are not slightly eased will also cause issues. But you shouldn't be trying to put on the shellac such that it looks absolutely wonderful. It's purpose in this finishing regimen is as a barrier layer and toner. One thin application is really all you need; two at the most if you lightly sand nibs in between. And if you have the option of spraying, go for it...much more forgiving although you have to avoid sagging and runs by not putting on too much for each sprayed coat.

You can also work on any visible laps and sags with some 320 paper and then very lightly wipe on some more shellac with a pad or lint-free cloth. Those pieces that I've used shellac as a finish (without spraying as I do now) all required some tender loving care to get to the right place...I don't finish often enough to have the skills down at this point.

If you want to use an alternative to the garnet shellac for toning, you could just thin and tint a little of your top coat, but you could very well end up with the same issue if you are not extremely careful in application.

[Howard Acheson]

If you are looking for the coloring of garnet shellac, you can use a phenolic resin varnish which is almost the same dark amber color. Waterlox Original products and Behlen Rockhard are both phenolic resin varnishes and will impart quite a bit of amber color.

As always, test out the finish on some scrap from your project. Sand and otherwise prepare the sample board the same way as your project. Then apply the finish and see how it looks.

[Steven Wilson]

you can block sand , use a card scraper, or a razor blade (at a steep angle like a scraper) to remove the ridges from the shellac. You really need to flow the shellac on quickly to avoid lap marks. If you're having issues of dark corners because of shellac pooling in them, then you should consider using a different brush without much of a reservoir. To get into corners I use a Windsor Newton #580 (Athena 7100 is equivalent).

[Mike Conley]

Please forgive me for these elementary questions.

After I sand and scrape the shellac, what should its appearance be before I apply the varnish. Should it have a consistantly dull appearance? Does it matter if some areas are not quite as dull in appearance as other areas?

The areas where I have to scrape ridges have more of a dull appearance than other areas.

I just would like to have an idea of what the surface should look like before I apply the varnish.

[Steve Schoene]

Ideally you want the consistent dullness since that indicates you have truely flattened the surface. (You are using a sanding block I assume.) If you are looking for the dead flat surface, shellac is easier to sand than varnish will be, so even if you need to add a coat or two to avoid cut through, sanding the shellac really flat will give you the most flawless surface in the end. If that's not totally necessary, every place should be at least scuffed since varnish depends on being mechanically keyed onto the surface for adhesion.

[Jim Becker]

Do note that as you use sanding and scraping to level the shellac, if you choose to do so, that you don't want to cut through and affect your oiled wood. It really WILL be noticeable then! (DAMHIKT!)

[Steven Wilson]

Mike, I do the following; block sand and use a card scraper to flatten the surface and get rid of shellac booboo's, apply another thin coat of shellac usually by rag (using the Windsor Newton #580 to do corners first), dull that finish with a scotchbrite pad (or steelwool) and then apply top coats.

[Mike Conley]

Steve - when you say you apply an additional thin coat with a rag, are you using a pad or are you just dipping a rag in the shellac and wiping it on?

[glenn bradley]

This may help; one of the things I like about shellac is that I can touch up (in reverse if you will) any ridges or lap marks by using denatured alcohol. The DNA liquefies the shellac and makes it workable again. For small corners, etc. I use an artists brush (horsehair for me but there are many natural bristles available). A soft lint-free cotton cloth wet with DNA can be used to remove ridges or lap marks.

As Jim points out, one of the tricks to using shellac is to have enough on your pad to keep it moist and workable and to work quickly and not 'go over' areas already done. If you need a thicker film, catch that spot on the next coat. I have a little voice in my head that tells me to 'walk away' when I look at a partially done piece and think about 'touching up this one little spot'. Do it on the next coat which will liquefy the previous coat and become one.

[Steven Wilson]

Mike, I suggest you use a pad. I've finally gained enough experience with shellac that I tend to use scraps of rags and it works fine. I'll have a couple cloth scraps, a squeze bottle of shellac, a squeze bottle of alcohol, some mineral oil, some scotch brite pads, a razor, and some sharpened but unturned scrapers plus the Windsor Newton #580 brush on the table when I'm working. If you're using shellac for color and are applying some other top coat then the goal is to get an even coat of color on your project to be a good, solid base. Whatever works, works. Over time you get a feel for doing this and how much time you have to work with the shellac before it starts getting gummy. Don't feel bad though, garnet shellac being as dark as it is can be tough to apply and get a good even color. Rubbing spots with a rag lightly dipped in alcohol to even things out or applying some Kusmi, Orange, yellow, or blonde to shade in, or even adding some transtint dye to some shellac to get the shade right can all be used to get the finish the way you want to. I really like to use card scrapers (without a turned hook) for leveling shellac. On suggestion on going into corners. Don't start with a loaded brush in the corners, use a brush where the reservoir is fairly empty as it's too easy to get a dark puddle in the corners.