How to drill perfect angled holes in 2x4's with NO drillpress?

[Niels J. Larsen]

I'm building lumber storage the same way a bunch of other creekers have done it - by using 2x4's bolted to the wall with iron pipes drilled into them at an angle functioning as the shelving.

Now to my question:

How do I ensure that all the holes (28mm diameter) in the 2x4's are drilled at the correct angle (about 3-5 degrees or so) and they doesn't "run" while drilling?

I don't (yet) own a drill press and I need this lumber storage done within about a week as I'm clearing space for my new bandsaw that will arrive the 27th.

Any help appreciated...

Regards,
Niels J. Larsen

[Rob Russell]

There are inexpensive drill guide attachments that you mount your drill in. The guides allow you to lock an angle into the base so you get consistently drilled angle holes.

Here's a link to one example Rockler Drill Guide (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2405).

Do an internet search on "drill guide" for brands and/or stores that would be local to you.

Rob

[Steven Wilson]

punch mark the 2x4 where you want to start your drill and then make a guide block for your drill bit.

[Rob Russell]

punch mark the 2x4 where you want to start your drill and then make a guide block for your drill bit.

A 28mm hole is a 1.1" hole - I'd guess that probably means a using a paddle bit instead of a twist drill. Holding something like that straight with a guide block could be fun.

[Dick Brown]

Get a Bullseye level from your lumber yard or hardware store, plumb your drill by chucking a long rod,bolt or bit in your vise, making sure it is plumb and then put the drill on it. Tighten the chuck, put a dab of silicone, 2 sided foam tape or? on the back of the drill, and stick on the bullseye so it shows level. Then elevate the 2x4 on one end to get the angle you want or tip the drill to the angle and note where the bubble is. then drill them all the same.
Dick

[Doyle Alley]

If you are using a speedbore bit it will be tough. If you are using a twist bit, I can show you a way - but it will require you to buy an extra long bit.

1. Using a small square (or two) drill a hole as close to vertical as humanly possible through the center of a 2" cube of wood.
2. Take the cube over to your miter saw and adjust the angle to the angle you want the hole to be.
3. Shave off enough of the cube so that one side is at the proper angle. Make sure the hole is horizontal so that you are slicing through it.
4. Place that cube against the wood you want to drill and use the now-angled hole as a guide.

[Steven Wilson]

A 28mm hole is a 1.1" hole - I'd guess that probably means a using a paddle bit instead of a twist drill. Holding something like that straight with a guide block could be fun.

I would go with a 28mm hole saw instead of a spade bit. Use a punch to mark the location for the pilot bit and then have the rim of the hole saw rub against the alignment block.

[Josiah Bartlett]

A forstner bit is going to be easier to get going at an angle and have it stay that way.

[Doug Shepard]

There are inexpensive drill guide attachments that you mount your drill in. The guides allow you to lock an angle into the base so you get consistently drilled angle holes.

Here's a link to one example Rockler Drill Guide (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2405).

Do an internet search on "drill guide" for brands and/or stores that would be local to you.

Rob


A forstner bit is going to be easier to get going at an angle and have it stay that way.

I would combine these two as well as mounting the drill guide on scrap ply and edge strips (there are screw holes on the base for this) to slip over the lumber. That will locate the center where you want it. It's just a little quicker than fussing with locating the guide for every hole and clamping it it place.

[joe greiner]

Make a guide block by drilling a prototype hole in a block of wood. Insert the pipe to establish/verify the hole's true axis, and transfer that axis to the surface of the wood. Measure the desired bevel angle with respect to the true axis, and cut the block to make the working surface. Clamp the block to the 2x4's, and drill through.

Joe

[John Schreiber]

I'd use one of the many tricks above which will work with a Forstner or a twist bit to start the hole. Then finish the hole with a spade bit. That way you get precision when you need it and speed for most of the work.

[Nathan Conner]

I had the same issue, tried on some scraps and had trouble getting a repeatable angle. Instead of mucking around with it after seeing my angle results, I redesigned the rack. It's bigger, yes, but sturdy as a rock. I can swing on any part of it, and I don't lose the face space (going to put a large cab up high on the face). I was at an advantage, though, because I have room to access from either side, and slide pieces in and out the side.

Lag-bolted the 4x4s to the wall, it sure turned out sturdier than I thought it would. 20 sheets of 3/4" will easily rest against the outside legs, and it doesn't even twitch. (I don't leave them there, though. Heard about a guy going through his in Seattle not long ago and being crushed to death when they got away from him and fell - yikes! Good reason not to stack on the short edge!)

Some photos. May not work for you, but it was up and full in less than an hour with about $40 worth of materials. If you have the space, I highly recommend it.

[john bateman]

Do you have a table saw with a miter gauge? Maybe you could somehow clamp the drill to the saw, aligning the bit with a miter slot. Then use the miter gauge with the 2 x 4 and push it into the spinning bit. At least the angle should be the same each time, if the drill doesn't move.

[Jerry Allen]

How about drilling all the boards at 90 degrees and then trimming the back on the table saw?

[Jamie Smith]

Do you have a plunge router? you could make a jig/template on an angled base, and 'drill' the holes with that.

[Niels J. Larsen]

and will try it with a spade bit.

If not I will have to find an extra long spiral bit and make a guide block.

I do have a plunge router - two actually, but it will not plunge deep enough for what I need.

Thanks for all your suggestions - this just proves what a great place the 'creek really is :D

I will get back when I've tried it out!

/Niels