Tool Handles

[Mike A. Smith]

I'm looking at buying some tools sans handles, I like the idea of custom fitting my own. I've seen this mentioned in threads and have seen pictures of the results, but I don't recall having seen any details.

When you turn your own handles how are they attached?

This is a fairly elementary question, but the answers may help some of the other new folks also.

[Pat Keefe]

Friction Fit, drill a hole approx. the width of the tang, remembering to put the ferrule on. Insert the tang, tapping the end of the handle on a bench to seat the chisel. If it is a bit loose I do use Selley's Knead it (A Two part Epoxy Putty) to fill in the void between the tang and the handle.

[Glenn Hodges]

Hey Mike, you are a wood turner, make your own handles, drill them out, put on the ferrell, fill the void around the tang in the handle with epoxy, and you will be ready when it drys. BTW, I find them easier to drill when the handles are on the lathe anyway.

[Mike A. Smith]

Another silly question; do ferrules usually come with unhandled tools or do you buy them separate?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mike go down to a plumbing place and get some 3/4" or 1" copper pipe and make your own. I use 3/4" most time unless I make a big handle. I have did this on a least 8 handles I have made.

[Lars Thomas]

Another option for ferrules is a brass compression nut. I jam them on my lathe and file round. Certainly the pipe is easier, I just prefer the look of brass.

[joe greiner]

Ditto the brass compression nut for ferrules. I mount a same-size nipple in the pin jaws, and use an old file with the end ground (top, bottom, and end) to an appropriate relief shape for cutting. I turn a tenon on the handle to about the same size as the root diameter as the threads, and force it on by twisting with a piece of inner tube wrapped for purchase; sometimes add some epoxy or J-B Weld.

End caps for copper pipe have a rounded rim, which could look better than plain pipe; drill a hole in the end for tool access. I have a stash of these, but haven't used them yet.

Brasso works well on both materials.

Joe

[Mike Vickery]

I have always used epoxy for secureing the tool in the handles.

I have used copper water pipe connectors and they work fine.
CSU does actually sell brass ones for like a buck. http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Turning_Materials___Assorted_Blanks___Brass_Ferrul e___brass_ferrule?Args=

I used one of these last time and it looked a little nicer (my opinion) then the copper.

[Paul Engle]

Mike, I just finished 2, 16" apple wood handles and used copper 1 1/8 ( ID ) copper joints w/ stops small dimple mid point, parted them off with my small skew ( point up) and sanded with 600grt, drilled on the lathe and finished with 1 coat tung oil and buffed with cotton rag, the joints at the hdware store are 1.99, the pipe caps work very well also but only get one for the nearl the same price so hence the using the joints. I polished a dimple on one to line up the gouge so I can see if I am twisting it before starting a cut and ground a slight flat spot on the handle to keep from rolling around on work bench, lathe bed etc.Hope this helps. the flat spot is courtsey of Tim Yodder neat idea show.

[Mike A. Smith]

Thanks for all the tips guys, I'll let you know how things turn out!

By the way, I'm not sure any of these handles you guys turned actually happened (no pics)!

[Dennis Peacock]

Here ya go Mike.....all my fancy-schmancy turning tools and tool holder. :)

So see.....mine really "exist". Everybody else's must be vaperware turning tools. :p :D

[David Beeler]

Here are a couple of good tutorials:

http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/ww/chisels/tang/tangintro.htm

http://www.theturnersshop.com/

[Richard Link]

Here ya go Mike.....all my fancy-schmancy turning tools and tool holder. :)

So see.....mine really "exist". Everybody else's must be vaperware turning tools. :p :D

Those are really nice Dennis. Could we see some closeups of the lighter colored handles? Its a bit of a tease from so far away....

Rick

[joe greiner]

Pic 1: A couple Oland tools for deep hollowing. Vise grip for torque control on the 45-degree cutter. Press fit in the handle - no glue. Plain steel shafts, so removable for occasional powered rust removal (on lathe).

Pic 2: Collection of ferrule materials, before and after.

Pic 3: Close-up of handle end. Cherry; don't remember finish, if any.

Joe

[Andy Hoyt]

Dennis - That orange hook tool on the far right is awesome. How far beyond the rest can it reach?

[Dennis Peacock]

Dennis - That orange hook tool on the far right is awesome. How far beyond the rest can it reach?

ROFL!!!!! The reach of the red/yellow tool handle and tooling is about 4 feet. :eek: :p :D