Got a Rockwell 34-450 Unisaw

[Grant Vanbokklen]

As some of you might know I was wanting a new saw to replace my contractors saw. Found one online nearby where I live. It is estimated that it only has about 15hrs total operating time on it, and it is from the mid to late 70s. 2hp 220 single phase 3450rpm. And it looks almost new. NO rust, paint and everything near perfect! Everything was included, original belts, fence, miter, operating manuals, uniguard, etc. a complete package. Because I' had been considering a Hybrid, I'd just like to say thanks to those that said to hold out for a Unisaw! All for a few hundred less than a Hybrid on sale!!! :D

[Chris Rosenberger]

You got a very nice saw Grant. Have fun with it.

[Mike Langford]

Great Grab.....Keep us posted with pics when you get her put together!

Did you get one of the 30" Biesmeyer fence deals from Lowes?

[Grant Vanbokklen]

Yes, I picked up both a Biesemeyer and Unifence, both 30". I've had good luck at Lowes lately too thanks to you guys here!!! I'm going to have to decide what fence to use. Not sure If I should sell both and get a 50" fence. For what I've been doing mostly I think the 30" will work fine. But I'm wanting to get a mobile base and figure out the best way to maximize dust collection. But I'm going to take it almost all apart and check it out and put it back solid and totally cleaned up. Will keep you posted.

Anyone know how either fence might fit on this saw using both cast iron wings? And anyone know of some posts or websites that show upgraded dust collection for older Unisaws? I got one of the Delta 1200cfm Lowes deals.

Needless to say I'm VERY thrilled with this purchase. I've wanted a Unisaw for many years.

[Jim McCarty]

Congratulations! You're going to love it. I've had my 3 hp Unisaw for over 25 years without a single problem and I've worked it really had as a general contractor. I went from a Jet-lock fence to a 50" Unifence about 23 years ago, and a couple of years ago got a great deal on a 66" Biesemeyer fence. The Biesemeyer is heavier to take off for using a sled but it's bullet proof. The Unifence has its strengths also. They're both excellent. Let me know if you need any help. I'm in Anaheim Hills.

[Grant Vanbokklen]

Thanks Jim, Mike Chris. I started working on things this morning. I want to get the insides in top shape. It is not bad, there are squeeks and creaks and it has never been re-lubricated. And there appears to be some surface rust inside.

I'd like to get this baby in top shape. But I'm not sure exactly where to start to clean up all moving parts inside. Can you relube the trunnion bearings? They don't spin real freely, I'm guessing that the lube in them needs refreshing. What can I use to clean things up that wont hurt the paint? Should I take it all apart and clean it up real nice and try and stop the rust that is there? This is a shot after blowing it out.

[Chris Rosenberger]

When you say trunnion bearings. Are you talking about the sawblade arbor. The arbor should not spin freely. As long as it feels tight & feels smooth when you turn it it should be fine. I like a WD40 type of substance to clean things up. What I use is an Amsoil product that is similar to WD40. It is a good cleaner & lubes things up.

[John Thompson]

Evening Grant...

Whoa.... that "old dog" looks like a young puppy with only 15 hours of play time. You did yourself proud on this un!

BTW.. I would shoot it with carb cleaner or WD40 to clear any old dried lube. Penetrating oil if you have any locked parts caused by rust. Just keep at it and move the parts to help free them. Just keep at it till it gets smooth and then re-lube. I really prefer graphite or candle wax on parts exposed heavily to saw-dust.

Regards...

Sarge..

[Grant Vanbokklen]

Chris, I meant the Arbor bearings :o . I just took both yours and John's advice and shot the areas that move with Tri-Flow, and when that ran out Boeshield, and kept moving things till they freed up.

Also shot some in the areas, both sides where the arbor bearings are and that seemed to help too. So I'm thinking at this point tomorrow I'll just work to get the old dried up grease off the worm gears and sprockets and lube them with something that will not collect wood dust so easily and leave it at that. And just start putting things back together. I'm over the feeling that I need to take it apart completely.

The history of this saw is that it sat unused till about 5yrs ago. The second owner that used it for 15hrs did no lubing it up prior to using it. I wonder if the arbor bearings are able to soak up some of the Triflow? Those arbor bearing might have been a bit dry for the usage it had. I'm wondering how a good set should spin. Before I shot it with Triflow it would make less than one revolution when I tried to spin it, now it makes about three. The motor though sounds fine when I spin it :)

I've got a contractors saw for sale cheap ;)

[Mike Wilkins]

Great find there. I have the same model saw, with a born-on date of May 1964. I got rid of the original tube-type fence and replaced it with a 50" Unifence, which bolted up perfectly with no modifications needed.
I often wish I had gone with a 30" fence, as the added length has never been used since getting the saw, except for piling more magazines on.