CA/BLO finsih, "puddles" of dry spots

[Nicholas Briggs]

Having more trouble with my CA/BLO finish. This is so frustrating because I used to have this thing down pat. I keep getting these "puddles" of spots where it looks like the CA didn't stick. Some times these dull spots don't show up for about an hour after the CA has cured. I've tried a few different methods, none seem to make a difference. Has anyone experienced this before or have a solution?

[Larry Crim]

I am having the same problem with a small cedar bowl about a hour after applying it there are a few dry spots intrested to see what replies you get. because I have no idea this is the first time I have had the problem.
Pat

[Rich Stewart]

Could the puddles of 'dry spots' actually be puddles of wet spots? The BLO will absorb into the end grain more than the side grain. The excess on the side grain would have to be wiped off. I think I remember my can of BLO saying on the instructions that excess must be wiped off or it will get gooey. Just a thought.

[Mike Vickery]

Nicholas.
The white hazing you are seeing is probably from oil or moisture trapped in the wood coming to the surface.
Wipeing down the blank with acetone and letting it dry before applying CA will help. Some times on very oily wood I will seal it with dewaxed shellac before CA finishing the pen.
- as a note I do not use the BLO just the ca to finish.

[Nicholas Briggs]

Is it possible this is caused by having a slightly bent mandrel?

[Alex Elias]

Is it possible this is caused by having a slightly bent mandrel?
No, that does not anyting to do with it.
Also I know what you're talking about first hand. Old CA can also cause problems when laying it. Some woods are more prone to do that as well; Ebony being one of them, this is one wood that is very difficult to get a good CA/BLO on it.
go to www.penturners.org (http://www.penturners.org) there are a few videos showing applications of CA plus tons of treads about it.
Good luck

[Richard Madison]

How long are you giving the BLO to set up before applying the CA? What wood(s) are you using it on, and what does it do for them? For ref., I use BLO on spalted hackberry to enhance the spalting.

[Nicholas Briggs]

I usually apply the CA right after the BLO, though I have tried other methods. I have had this problem mostly on box elder, and also a couple cherry burls. Right now the problem is with a cocobolo cigar pen. I use BLO to enhance the grain, and also (from what I hear) to spread the CA more evenly.

[Kevin McPeek]

I went through a lot of that but I now friction dry the BLO and usually let it set up overnight, if I'm not in a hurry, before I apply the CA. Then I apply 3-4 light coats of thin CA, which usually doesn't need to be sanded but now is a good time to check. Then I'll put another 3-4 coats of thick or medium CA then sand and MM.

[Richard Madison]

Nicholas,
Thanks for your response. Like Kevin, I "friction dry" the BLO with the application cloth and give it at least overnight to set up. Might be worth a try.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Nicholas I use the CA/BLO. If it is a oily wood I wipe down with mineral spirits good and let dry off. I apply the BLO and friction it for a minute. Then apply medium CA with a little friction. When that dries I do it over again for 3 or 4 coats. Haven't had your problem so far.

[Nicholas Briggs]

Thanks for the responses guys. What exactly is meant by "friction dry?"

[Stan Cook]

Try it without the BLO. An initial coat of thin CA will make the grain 'pop' but does not have the amber tint.

[Nicholas Briggs]

Pulling my hair out. I've tried everything mentioned here. No luck. I'm trying these new techniques on Ironwood, which has given me excellent results in the past. Is it possible that I am sanding to fine a grain before the application of CA? I often sand all the way up to MM 1200, perhaps this is preventing the CA from sticking?