Nice and rustic or junky looking? (pics)

[Matt Campbell]

Here's a bench I completed last night. The wood is some very old, weathered oak that someone gave me. When I saw the top board, I just saw a bench. It was quite a fun and challenging project for a new woodworker like me. Of course it's not perfect, but it holds all 200 lbs. of me. I really enjoy the beaten, rustic look of the wood, but others may not. Please tell me what you think. I have more wood like this and would like to make several things to sell potentially. Do you think people would pay for something like this?

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL711/5021821/10993923/277743920.jpg

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL711/5021821/10993923/277743914.jpg

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL711/5021821/10993923/277743907.jpg

[Kyle Stiefel]

Matt,

I like it with the through and pegged tenons. I would think you could sell something like that without a problem. Have you seen a Pottery Barn catalog lately?

[Jason Tuinstra]

Matt, looks great to me. I can totally see someone buying something like this. Nice job!

[Ralph Okonieski]

My vote is for "nice and rustic". Nicely done!

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Hi Matt,

......"Do you think people would pay for something like this?"

Yep

A friend just sold one made very much like yours with the tenons. It was made with new material (pecan) but shorter and a bit wider. He got a hundred bucks for his. I'm not saying you could get that for yours, but I sold in a craft mall for several years and peddled who knows how many benches. I made mine four feet long with a 1x12 pine top and the last of them I sold (quite some time ago) went for about fifty bucks. They are very versatile, not only to sit on, but used as plant stands,etc.

If you're using the "rustic" wood rough sand it lightly (not much) to get rid of the "rustic" splinters or when someone sits on it they may use some "rustic" language and call you "rustic" names.

Good luck with the project.

[Art Mulder]

Matt,

Yes, I think people would pay for those. The grain on the top board is really nice, and the bench has a great rustic look.

The photo does not show the stretcher very well, but it seems to have a gap at the right side? That is something I would fix. I also would wonder about stability, since the legs appear to be solid. I would think about either putting some feet (little buttons or some such) under the legs, or cutting a notch in the bottom of the legs to give it 4 feet.

best,
...art

[Matt Campbell]

Kyle, I'm sure my wife has one around somewhere. I'll have to check that out.

Richard, I used my Stanley No. 4 to smooth the top. I was looking for some hand tool practice with this project. Prior to this, I had only cut 2 mortise and tenon joints so it was needed practice.

Art, I intentionally didn't mention the stretcher mistake just to see if anyone would catch that. That's the only part where I forgot to make the angled cut instead of 90 degrees. Also, the 4 feet idea is good. Right now I think I'll keep it the way it is. If it needs it at some point, I'll certainly utilize your solution.

Thanks everyone for the comments. They're very encouraging and informative for me, a beginner.

[Jim Becker]

I think it's outstanding in design and the material is perfect for the form! Yea, you could have made it shorter by removing the one end of the board, but that extra character really makes this bench sing. Really. Awesome work.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Matt, I was thinking along the lines of "barnwood", weathered boards that so many like. With them, the rougher and more weathered looking the better. If you smooth things down too much you risk losing your rustic apearance, but you do need to get rid of any projecting points.

The mention of cutting a notch in the legs is good. It will provide four feet for the bench and be more stable.

[Matt Campbell]

Actually, these boards came from my in-laws' neighbor's old woodworking shop. The man had a stroke a few years ago and immediately had to stop woodworking. I was invited to pick through his scraps that were lying inside and outside his shop. According to the man's daughter, the boards had been sitting outside for at least 20 years. They plan on tearing down the shop at some point. The walls and ceiling are all made of this same weathered oak so I'll be able to make several more rustic looking projects at that point.

[Dale Osowski]

You bet someone will pay for something like that. I make similar tables and sell 8-12 a year. The one pictured here is a simple Cherry table.

Dale

[Matt Campbell]

Dale, the pictures on your website influenced my design. I'd like to inlay a walnut bow tie on the split end of the top, but that's another thing I've never done before. Shoot, I guess I could try it.

[Dale Osowski]

Hi Matt

On this bench I think it would be better to leave the bowtie out. Reason one is because it would conflict visually with the through tenon. Reason two, if the seat does split it would go no farther than the tenon. If you are worried about splitting I would use a bowtie on the bottom of the bench. I think it looks great as is. Here is a pic showing bowtie thickness in relation to top thickness, I like to use beefie bowties.

Dale

[Rich Torino]

Great job on the bench.. I wouldn't change a thing. A better discription of your woodworking should be new & talented....

[Michael Schwartz]

I like it :D

Wood is rustic and natural. If somebody wants a high tech modern look that can be achieved with modern high tech materials. The astetics of a wayne edge on a board are un paralleled. The reason beeing it is a truely natural curve. You can not lay out a curve or shape or sculpt wood in a truly natural way. Defects are also just defects to the lumber industry. If they look good there is absolutely nothing wrong with them :cool:


I really appreciate it when people just use wood as it is and not try to use an imperfect material in a perfect state.

[glenn bradley]

I second the nice and rustic vote.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Wow...I LOVE this kind of woodworking....very nicely done!!

[Don Bullock]

I definately say, "nice and rustic." That's a very nice looking and well crafted bench. Sure people will buy something like that.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Sorry Matt--I gotta disagree with the masses. It's the ugliest thing I've seen on the Creek.;) I will, however, gladly take it off your hands (don't want you to be depressed each time you see it). You can ship it to me (prepaid of course) and I promise to take good care of it. My wife already has the spot for it cleared. Yes, it's nice and rustic--In fact it's very nice. I hope my feeble attempt at humor didn't offend you! I really like it!

[Jake Helmboldt]

On this bench I think it would be better to leave the bowtie out. Reason one is because it would conflict visually with the through tenon. Reason two, if the seat does split it would go no farther than the tenon. If you are worried about splitting I would use a bowtie on the bottom of the bench. I think it looks great as is. Here is a pic showing bowtie thickness in relation to top thickness, I like to use beefie bowties.
Dale

Dale, I have several cherry slabs that are very similar to what you do with your work. I've been contemplating the best way to design and join the legs, so I have a couple questions for you:

1. Do you use a through tenon(s)? The pics on your site don't, so I'm wondering how you joined those.

2. I was contemplating legs very similar (wany edge slabs) but was worried about strength and wracking. What do you do to provide adequate strength? I figured I'd need some kind of stretcher, but I want to avoid it if possible.

3. I've not done anything with wany edges before and I'm wondering what to do to prep them. Do you just give them a light sanding?

Great looking work. Jake

[Dale Osowski]

Dale, I have several cherry slabs that are very similar to what you do with your work. I've been contemplating the best way to design and join the legs, so I have a couple questions for you:

1. Do you use a through tenon(s)? The pics on your site don't, so I'm wondering how you joined those.

2. I was contemplating legs very similar (wany edge slabs) but was worried about strength and wracking. What do you do to provide adequate strength? I figured I'd need some kind of stretcher, but I want to avoid it if possible.

3. I've not done anything with wany edges before and I'm wondering what to do to prep them. Do you just give them a light sanding?

Great looking work. Jake


Hi Jake

I do not use through tenons, I use fox wedged. I also use multiple tenons vs a single large tenon, more glue area.

If your joinery is good you should not need a strecther. The Cherry table you see does get used as a bench by the clients grandchildren when they visit. Two or three will sit on it at a time, no problems.

For the live edges I use a drawknive to clean up the edge and remove defects or sapwood if there is to much, I follow the natural curve of the edge. When that is done I'll follow up with a spoke shave and then sand if needed.

Dale

[Randal Stevenson]

I look at it, and while I understand it is furniture, my mind keeps saying, why isn't this in the neander forum. Almost perfect saw bench.:)