Info Needed

[Glenn Hodges]

Are any of you using a chainsaw sharpener/grinder to sharpen your chainsaw blades? The type I am referring to is the one you must take the blade off the saw in order to use. What type of brand, and how do you like it?

[Paul Engle]

Hey Glenn, I use a file while the chain is still on the bar, most sharpeners you take the chain off to sharpen on a fixture/jig that comes with the grinding attachment, check out local saw shop they will be happy to sell you one.

[Dick Strauss]

Glen,
I seemed to have read that some people say the $40 sharpener from HF is a little sloppy. I think most like the Oregon sharpener that runs about $250.

If it were me, I'd take a chance on the HF one and see if you get a good one. If you don't like it, you can take it back (assuming you live close).

[Mike Ramsey]

Glenn, I use the HF sharpener that I got onsale for $16 & it works very well for me.

[Fred Conte]

I have used my dremel with a cone-shaped stone, it's fast and yields good results.:)

[Benjamin Dahl]

Glen, I also use the Dremel sharpener and it has worked well for me. pretty simple to operate though not the type you are asking about.
Ben

[Dennis Peacock]

I guess I'm a bit old fashioned....All I've ever used is a round file. :eek: :D

[John Shuk]

The Oregon sharpener is very nice. My buddy has one and he does a chain in about 5 minutes.

[Jonathan Harvey]

I too use a round file.

[Reed Gray]

I use the round file also. Hints: Cut on the push stroke, pushing from the back of the bevel to the point, not a pull stroke. You want the cut to angle up a little bit, but with a little slack in the chain, and the bar being held down, this is kind of automatic. Wear gloves. I have slipped more than once, and have scars on my knuckles to prove how sharp my chain was. It doesn't take a whole lot of force, generally light strokes will do it. Try to take the same number of strokes per tooth. Sharpen all the teeth on one side of the chain, then rotate the saw 180 degrees, and sharpen the other side. After a number of sharpenings, the raker tooth needs to be taken down a bit, and there is a special jig for this, and a special file. I use the jig on one tooth to tell me how far down I have to go, then put the jig back, and take the same number of strokes on each tooth. You should flip the bar over every once in a while to get it to wear longer and more evenly. When the saw starts to cut nice arcs, it is time to take it to a professional. The sharpening machines will go through a chain faster than a file. Buy a box of files, and a handle for them. Never tried a rotary tool and a stone, but resharpened a chain for a friend who did. He cut more down into his chain than into the cutting edge. Now when I sharpen with some one looking who really knows how to sharpen, they no longer fall to the ground laughing, and there are still some chuckles, but the chain is sharper when I am done than it was before I started.
robo hippy

[Richard Madison]

Another round file advocate here. I chuck mine in a reversable, variable speed cordless drill, and lightly support the other end with a handheld scrap block of wood. My file "teeth" spiral around the file, so I use the drill direction that files toward the saw chain tooth, rather than away from it. Maybe better (when feasible) to sharpen off the saw, holding the subject tooth (teeth) firmly in a vice, and moving the chain every couple of teeth. Also keeps the filings out of the slot in the bar this way.

[Tim Fitzgibbon]

Dremel makes a sharpening stone bit specific for chainsaws. I use one in my Foredom flex shaft. Works great.

[joe greiner]

Oregon makes sharpening stones that fit the Dremel (and probably also the Foredom); in sets of three, so likely less expensive than one per pack. Owing to impatience and not using the sharpening jig, I'd been using the Dremel hand-held. Not a perfect solution, as is chucking the round file in a drill. When properly run (with respect to the chisel) they tend to climb out of the gullet and round off the chisel edge. Then you need to grind more. All this shortens the life of the chain. I'm now persuaded to use the round file instead. And only a few strokes for each sharpening. If done frequently and lightly, the chain should last much longer. The file can also wear down similar to the sharpening stone, so be prepared to replace it.

I mount the chain saw in a vise, clamping the bar, with the tension just enough to stabilize the chain; not so tight as to make it difficult to move by hand (wearing a glove, of course). Often, there's an odd-ball link in the chain to indicate where to start and stop sharpening. If not, mark one link with a felt-tip marker.

I have several chain saws, and sharpen all of them in a marathon session to avoid interruptions in use.

Joe

[TYLER WOOD]

I just return the saw to the owner!:cool:

buy a chain for him every year or so, depending on the ammount of use I give it. Works well for me!!!:D