Need quick Craftsman table saw advice..

[Matt P]

I have hardly any space in which to work (i.e. a studio apartment in NYC), and just purchased the Craftsman 21802 benchtop table saw from Sears for $119+tax (which got pretty good reviews). I'm going to use it primarily for making jewelry boxes. Does anyone have any particularly obvious suggestions for using it safely? I'm not sure if it comes with a splitter, riving knife, etc. (probably not). It will be my first table saw and I am a little nervous about losing a fingertip or getting impaled by kickback!

Thanks,
Matt

this is the saw:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921802000P

[Joe Mioux]

You can purchase after market splitters, but this saw will probably come with a blade guard. With the blade guard you will probably have some sort of anti-kickback device.

Are you really going to use this saw in your apartment?

If so, you will want some sort of dust collection device. Healthy breathing is important! :)

Push sticks, feather boards would be high on my list of safety items.

I know this isn't part of your question, but you may find that some good handtools will be useful, quieter and possibly even more satisfying than powered tools for your intended jewelry boxes, i.e. a couple of saws, a set of chisels, and several types of handplanes.

[scott spencer]

Make sure it's aligned well. Get the blade and the fence as close to parallel with the miter slots as possible...any deviation should be on the side of the tail of the fence fading away from the blade by a hair.

A high quality blade appropriate for the task can make life easier too.

Good luck.

[Loren Hedahl]

I can't imagine using such a tool in an apartment -- at least more than once!

However, I could imagine using a small, quality band saw, that might be appropriate for making jewelry boxes.

Another idea would be to consider some of the Japanese hand saws. I find myself using one of these for a lot of cutting that I used to do with a power saw. They cut clean, efficiently, accurately and quickly once you get on to them.

Just my thoughts.

[Matt P]

Thanks everyone.. I use the tools in my bathroom to keep the dust localized, with a box vent fan in the window.. oh well, wish I had more space.

[Lee Schierer]

The best safety device for your saw rests between your shoulders. Think through every cut. Dry run every cut. If you feel nervous, look for a different safer way to do it. Listen to that little voice that says this cut isn't safe.

I also recommend aligning your saw. It probably isn't well aligned from the factory.

Never cut free hand always use the crosscut guide or the fence.

Never rip a piece that is wider than the length of the side against the fence.

Always use aoush sticks and feather boards when ripping.

Never stand directly behind the piece being ripped.

When making blind cuts, never plunge cut a piece onto a raised moving blade. Always raise the blade up into the firmly secured piece.

Always wait for the saw blade to completely stop before clearing pieces away from the blade.

Always wear eyeglasses or face shield when operating the saw. Don't forget the ear plugs either, particularly since you are in a confined space.

As Norm Abrams now says, read understand and follow the written safety instructions for your tools.

[David Weaver]

Thanks everyone.. I use the tools in my bathroom to keep the dust localized, with a box vent fan in the window.. oh well, wish I had more space.

I used a similar saw not that long ago. Immediate need was to replace the blade with something that cut truer. I got a forrest thin kerf WW II, though there are plenty of good combination blades out there. Most of the dust will go straight down, though it will make a mohawk of dust that goes in the direction of the blade. Use it with your back to the wall and you'll minimize that - if you use it toward an open room, it'll be everywhere. Even on a crappy saw, you can get glass smooth cuts with a good blade. it might be almost as much as the saw, but it's worth it.

Throw the blade that comes with it away or keep it for cutting through stuff that might be abrasive or have dirt on it.

It wasn't long until I had a cabinet-style hybrid saw with a biesemeyer commercial fence. I just couldn't take using that type saw with larger stuff, but with small stuff, it didn't actually do too bad.

* Get some ear plugs - it's going to be louder than you can imagine.

* Measure the distance from the blade to the groove front on the right front and back and make sure that if it's off kilter, that the back is farther from the groove on the right than the front is - but not by much. Next measure the distance of the fence to the same groove. Try to get the fence as straight as possible and move it to the right and back and lock it up several times and remeasure to see if the variation in squareness from front to back changes - it will not lock up exactly parallel each time, but it'll be close enough for small stuff. You just want to make sure it isn't unsafe.

* Use the splitter and guard, and a push stick if you can. It will fling small pieces across the room (or into you) as well as any other table saw.

Once you get it set up and you fiddle with it and get a good blade on it, you'll be surprised how nice the cuts are.

[glenn bradley]

I have hardly any space in which to work (i.e. a studio apartment in NYC), and just purchased the Craftsman 21802 benchtop table saw from Sears for $119+tax (which got pretty good reviews). I'm going to use it primarily for making jewelry boxes. Does anyone have any particularly obvious suggestions for using it safely? I'm not sure if it comes with a splitter, riving knife, etc. (probably not). It will be my first table saw and I am a little nervous about losing a fingertip or getting impaled by kickback!

Thanks,
Matt

this is the saw:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921802000P





I enjoyed the pics of your bathroom shop and admire your gumption. The saw will have a built in splitter as part of the blade guard. If it comes with anti-kickback pawls (the spring-loaded, spiked do-jobbers) you will have to decide if you want to deal with them or not. I remove them as they scar the wood.

For safety (along with what others have said) I will re-re-re-emphasize your setup. However you mount that saw, mount it solid. There's been plenty of threads on TS alignment here. A properly setup saw will be the foundation for safe cutting. The built in splitter is usually too thin and can be a little weird to line up but please, take the trouble to do so.

Always use your miter gauge or fence. No free hand cutting even though you are in your bathroom with a little saw. It doesn't take much HP behind a saw blade to separate the meat from the bone. Keep us posted on your ongoing inventiveness and be safe.

[Seumas McCombie]

Every angle covered regards table saw safety
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=62716
or www.youtube.com (http://www.youtube.com) and search table saw

[Jim Becker]

A good blade that is properly aligned as well as a zero-clearance insert should be on your list of things to do to make your saw best suited to the work you describe. It does come with a combined splitter/guard, but that must be removed for non-through cuts. The fences don't necessarily stay aligned on these inexpensive benchtop saws, so be sure to measure often.

There is a line of small project oriented tools available that might be a better choice for doing small boxes and so forth, I believe they are sold under the brand name of Proxim, but could be wrong on that. firms who specialize in miniatures often carry them or similar.

[Matt P]

Thank you everyone for your helpful comments! One last thing - the saw comes with a 36 tooth carbide blade (seems like a thin-kerf blade). Do I definitely need a better blade (e.g. Freud, Forrest)? I will be using the saw only occasionally and will only be cutting pieces and bevel cuts for jewelry boxes, shoe boxes, etc. out of small exotic hardwood boards (e.g. 3' long x 4" wide x1.5" thick).
If so, any blade suggestions (e.g. Freud LU88 - will thin kerf still cut good miters?)
Thanks,
Matt

[scott spencer]

Thank you everyone for your helpful comments! One last thing - the saw comes with a 36 tooth carbide blade (seems like a thin-kerf blade). Do I definitely need a better blade (e.g. Freud, Forrest)? I will be using the saw only occasionally and will only be cutting pieces and bevel cuts for jewelry boxes, shoe boxes, etc. out of small exotic hardwood boards (e.g. 3' long x 4" wide x1.5" thick).
If so, any blade suggestions (e.g. Freud LU88 - will thin kerf still cut good miters?)
Thanks,
Matt

The LU88 is a really nice blade that sounds like it's well matched to your projects. An excellent choice IMHO if your saw has sufficient power. If you think the saw is on the weak side, then perhaps the LU86R010 or LU83R010 are better choices for your saw going through 1.5" material.

Amazon is currently offering 20% off saw blades automatically at checkout. They're also offering 10% off Freud products...be sure to enter code "FREUDIOP" in the discount code box. You have to be sure that Amazon is the seller....if a seller like Timberline Tools or other shows as the main vendor, you won't get the discounts. If that's the case just click on the hotlink that says: "# used & new available from $##.##" and add it to your cart with "Amazon" as the selected merchant. Be sure to choose free shipping too.

[Matt P]

Thank you. UPDATE: I received the Craftsman 21802 table saw - the table isn't even flat! Off by 1/4" over the length of the table. Looks like the curve of the horizon. Cheap junk. I am sending it back and ordering the Jet Benchtop table saw.

[Tyler Howell]

Work in the bath room:eek: .
I've heard it all now
Good luck Matt;)