Scroll Saw Sanding Blade Advice Needed

[Jack Norfleet]

I just finished cutting a pattern into a music stand I am making as a gift. Looking at the sanding that will be required on all of the inside cuts is giving me nightmares.

Has anyone used the scroll saw sanding blades? If so please tell me if they save time. Also, what grits do you recommend?


The piece is a half inch thick piece of mahogany. The cuts weren't horrible, but I need to sand some wandering lines and some ridges.

[Lori Kleinberg]

Just used mine for the first time yesterday. I used a 120 grit to help sand some scroll baskets I am making. They worked okay. They are a great size for getting into tight corners. A little tough to clamp tight and they seemed to stretch alot. Since I can't think of any other way to do that kind of sanding I guess they will do. By the way I do have a mini file set that works really well, but this was too much to do by hand.

[Raymond Fries]

I have a Dewalt 788 scrollsaw and they would not stay clamped in the holder. The thumbscrew tightened right against the back edge of the plastic and it kept slipping out of the clamp.

I did buy one of these and really like it. It makes quick work on those inside cuts. The files do not wear out like sandpaper.

http://www.precisionhobby.com/Electro.asp

Not sure what blades you are using but if you have not tried reverse tooth or crown tooth blades, they will help minimize sanding as there is no tearout on the bottom.

Good luck with your project.

Scrollwork is a beautiful thing...

Post a pic when you get it done.

[Jack Norfleet]

Lori,

I also have several files and agree that amount of work is too much. Thanks.

Raymond,

Thanks for the link.

This is my second project on the scroll saw so I am just learning the terminology. I stumbled into a deal on a used Hegner 18 inch saw that used to belong to a serious hobbiest. There are well over a thousand blades in a couple of dozen tubes. I just picked a tube that had thin blades with reverse teeth on the bottom. Tearout isn't the problem. I was cutting out a 22 inch board on an 18 inch saw so I had to reverse several cuts and left ridges where the cuts met.

[Jon Lanier]

They do make the scroll sanders, needle files and file/riffle sets:

http://www.sloanwoodshop.com/scroll_sanders.htm

http://www.sloanwoodshop.com/needle_files.htm

http://www.sloanwoodshop.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm

When I first started scrolling I used the sanders to some good use. But I have found that nothing beats a good reverse blade and even better scrolling technique so you don't have to sand. I don't think I've used those sanders in about 4 years.

The sanders will work and probably the fastest way to make corrections if you can't do it with your blade skills. Some times just using one of those throw away nail files will work just as good. (more muscled needed for this technique. :o )

[Raymond Fries]

I have had real good luck with a situation like yours where I just used a really sharp blade and cut away the marks that needed sanded away. Not sure if you can do that on your pattern but just a thought. Correct TPI for your wood hardness and thicknesss can make a big difference as well.

It takes time to get good at it and as Jon said, if the technique is right there is not much sanding needed.

Good Luck.