Finishing Mahogany with Danish Oil

[Marcus Lawrence]

In our home office I have just finished doing a remodel that includes a full wall of built in's (bookshelves, cabinets, and a desktop) as well as all new crown and base moldings all done in mahogany. Everything is sanded and ready to be finished, and I am having a difficult time deciding what to do for the finish. Anyone have any opinions on Danish Oil as a finish for this project..? Any concerns with using it..? I have hvlp spray equipment and I usually spray finish, but this being in the house I am not too excited to spray it, and I dont want to have to fill the grain if I can help it. Anyway, I thought I would take a shot and see if anyone has opinions on this, or any other suggestions for finishing this project.

Thanks

Marcus

[Jim Becker]

A Danish oil type finish would look lovely, IMHO, as it's a soft sheen and easy to apply given you wipe on the product. You will need quite a few coats, but again, it's easy application. (You'll get virtually zero grain filling with the oil-varnish mixture, so the texture of the mahogany will show through)

[Marcus Lawrence]

Jim - Thanks for the reply, I have never really used Danish Oil - how durable of a finish is it and how many coats are needed to get a good solid finish.? For the desktop that is built in should I coat over the danish oil with something a little more durable or the Danish oil suffice..?

Thanks

Marcus

[Jim Becker]

"Danish oil" is a varnish product...don't be confused by the name. It's as "durable" as any varnish, depending on how many coats you wipe on. Generally speaking, 3 wiped on coats is more or less similar to one brushed on coat so a typical finish will be 8-12 wiped on coats. "Danish oil" doesn't need to be top coated with anything.

[Steve Schoene]

I can't think of any of the Danish oils out there that are varnish products instead of being oil/ varnish mixtures. Watco is one example, as is the Deft Danish oil. As a consequence these should be wiped on AND all the excess wiped off, leaving no measurable film on the surface. The one I know that isn't an oil/varnish mix--Tried and True--is polymerized linseed oil, also not a varnish. It probably takes 3-4 coats to get a fairly even sheen. On the first coat, make sure you stay on top of "bleed" back, with oil creeping out of pores to form shiny spots that are easy to keep wiped off, but a bear if they are allowed to harden.

Now, there are plenty of "Tung Oil Finish" products, including Formby's, that are wipe on varnish, with no oil at all. (Once oil as an ingredient has been chemically reacted with resin it isn't oil any more.)

When the oil is added to the mix durability suffers considerably. It takes film thickness to really provide protection, and Danish oil can't do that. But that's not to say that Danish oil doesn't provide fully sufficient protection. Of the things you mention only the desk top is very likely to need more protection, unless you never drink coffee at the desk.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for the clarification, Steve. I did mean to say oil/varnish, but failed to do so. My bad...

[Marcus Lawrence]

Couple more questions on the Danish Oil - do I wipe it on fairly thick and let it sit for a bit and then wipe off or do I wipe it on and wipe off right away..? Also, on the desktop what would be a recommendation for giving it more protection (something over the danish oil or a completely different finish all together..?)

Thanks

Marcus

[Jim Becker]

First coat you can let sit for a few minutes, but subsequent coats...wipe on...wipe off any excess. You should get to the point that you are able to wipe on just the right amount for the subsequent coats without revisiting the piece much, if at all.

Please describe what you need "protection" from relative to the desk. Danish oil is a film finish in the end...

[Thomas Barron]

What about staining/finishing wine bottle cabinets? I have a job I am starting, and it includes 20 lf of 8' tall wine bottle units, along with library cabinets and 8 interior doors.

Can this finish be sprayed on and then wiped off? There are A LOT of 1/2" x 1/2" dividers for all of the bottles.

Any suggestions?

[Steve Schoene]

Yes, you can spray and then wiped off but if you have spray capabilities you might want to think about finishes more directly intended to be sprayed--that can be sprayed and that will dry quickly without needing to be wiped or have any overspray remain sticky for hours and hours.