Favorite tool?

[Mike A. Smith]

Just got a bonus at work. Not enough to make up for everything I did, but still a nice surprise! I've decided I'm going to purchase a couple of quality turning tools with part of it.

The 'nice' tools I've got include a mega-flute bowl gouge that I really like, a good roughing gouge, a Sorby hollowing tool and a Sorby multi-tip scraper. Everything else is from a couple of mini/midi sets.

I've turned everything from pens and chain pulls to bowls and hollow forms with these. I've started using the small skews a lot, so I figure I'm going with a good size skew and a quality spindle gouge. I'm still on a mini-lathe and I'm not ready for a big boy yet, so a single bowl gouge is enough. Not really interested in a hollowing system since I don't turn HF often and I'm not commercial, so I'll continue to do these the old fashioned way.

Now that I've rambled enough to put everyone to sleep...

All of this got me to wondering; what is everyone's single, number one favorite, can't live without it, turning tool?

[Bill Wyko]

Myself, I love an Elsworth grind. I probably use that tool more than anything else put together.

[Dennis Peacock]

My primary turning tool is a 3/8" P&N bowl gouge with the fingernail grind on it. :D

[Gordon Seto]

Mike,

For spindle work, I like the Thompson detail gouge. Because the flute is shallow, very little steel was milled away; the tool has more rigidity than any spindle gouge.
http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/tooltype.asp?TYPE=D
I personally use both this and the shallow detail gouge. The shallow detail has even shallower flute, it can be extended over the tool rest further without chattering, very useful for off-center turning.
They are made from A-11 steel with cryogenic heat treating. The only other tool that is comparable is the Glaser:
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=glaser&Page=2
The difference is Glaser comes in nice handle. If money is no object, I would go with Glaser. Unfortunately, ...


Gordon

[Jude Kingery]

I like a Crown 3/8" bowl gouge with a rather fingernail grind - I use that more than anything else. Nice handled, too. It'll be interesting to see what suggestios you have. Jude

[Paul Engle]

My go to gouge is a HT 3/8 ( 1/2 dia) double ground super flute with short fingernail at /43 deg angle 99% of the time.This is the one i want to replace with the Serious V gouge which is powdered metalurgy and cryo treated for about 20$ less then the name brands , unhandled . I have a 3/4 Ellsworthw/60 degree angle ( double ground ) and use it for reaching way over the tr.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I like the 3/8" and 1/2" Thompson V-flute bowl gouge.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Mike,

I turn on a mini. I have 2 favorites.

A Robert Larson 3/8" bowl gouge and a Robert Larson 3/4" straight skew. I often thought of buying a bigger bowl gouge but a more knowledgeable, experienced and talented turner than I suggested that it would be a waste on the h/p of a small mini.

[Sean Troy]

3/8" and 1/2" Glaser

[Robert McGowen]

Simple for me...... a round nose scraper.

[paul ashman]

My Discover Card

[Jason Beam]

My skew, for sure.

I like my 3/8" spindle gouge with fingernail grind, too, but if you're only giving me one, it'll be my skew.

[Jim Becker]

My Ellsworth gouges. No question. 95% of my turning gets done with them. Most of the rest is with a parting tool or a small, custom "pointy" gouge of Ellsworth attribution for parting and detail work.

[Gordon Seto]

My skew, for sure.

I like my 3/8" spindle gouge with fingernail grind, too, but if you're only giving me one, it'll be my skew.

I will need to learn how to do tight coves with a skew.

Gordon

[Curt Fuller]

I'm not going to suggest anything except that you steer away from the Sorby hollowing tool. It's called a Sorby Hollowmaster but I think Andy Hoyt most appropriately named it a Hollowbastard. And I second that opinion. There are far better hollowing systems available nowdays than that. If I had to name a tool that I thought was my least favorite tool, it would be that one.

[Scott Donley]

My fav ? My HF close quarter drill for power sanding. Best 18 bucks I have spent. Did I say I hate sanding:( I have had it about a year now and it just won't die.

[Andy Hoyt]

You got that right, Curt. I hated that thing.

My new favorite is an old experimental 5/8" Glaser bowl gouge that a good friend gave me because he didn't like it. Holds an edge very well and weighs a ton.

[Gordon Seto]

You got that right, Curt. I hated that thing.

My new favorite is an old experimental 5/8" Glaser bowl gouge that a good friend gave me because he didn't like it.

Andy,

Where can I find those friends? I think it is easier to find friends that didn't like me and good to their Glaser.

How was it different than the production 5/8" Glaser? Just curious.

Gordon

[George Guadiane]

Just got a bonus at work. Not enough to make up for everything I did, but still a nice surprise! I've decided I'm going to purchase a couple of quality turning tools with part of it.

Not really interested in a hollowing system since I don't turn HF often and I'm not commercial, so I'll continue to do these the old fashioned way.
what is everyone's single, number one favorite, can't live without it, turning tool?
I am going to go "off the board" here and suggest the Rolly Munro mini hollowing tool... :eek: WAIT!!!:cool:
I use it for all kinds of things, inside and out (it cuts like CRAZY). I have a Delta Midi and a mustard monster, I wish I had had the hollower when I first tried hollowing, I might still be using the Midi (ok, not really, BUT...) that thing is my favorite. I have considered getting a bigger hollowing system, but I am already doing 9+ inch diameter by 6+ deep hollow forms, no steady rest, no gigantic rigging - just the tool, the lathe and the wood. I will add a steady rest at some point, but I'm in no hurry to get bigger (not better) hollowing tools, I really don't see NEEDING anything more.
That tool is VERY responsible for the amount of and quality of the hollow forms I do. It comes with one articulation link, I got a second and can get VERY far inside without any trouble.

[Raymond Overman]

I'm ignoring your single tool question but here's my opinion on must have kit.

For a variety I would say one each of the 10 MM and 16 MM P&N gouges and two of the 12 MM (3/8", 5/8", & 1/2" x 2 respectively) All total about $150 delivered from Lee Valley and in my opinion the best money you can spend for making average sized bowls.

As for boring bars and hollow forms I'm a big fan of rolling your own with 1/4" x 1/4 x 2 1/2 M2 bits from WT Tool and 3/4" drill rod for a straight and angled boring bar. All total you can make two for around $20 and they will last a long time.

So for less than $200 you could easily cover your bowl and hollow form making if you don't mind making the handles.

Congrats on the bonus by the way. It's always good to get a little extra, especially if the darling wife let's you use some of it the way you want to.

[Andy Hoyt]

..... How was it different than the production 5/8" Glaser? Just curious. Gordon I really don't know. Except that it's quite old and isn't shot-loaded.

[Jonathon Spafford]

1/2" skew... love the curlies it can make!

[Mike A. Smith]

Re: The Sorby "hollowing tool". I went back to Sorby's site to make sure we were talking about the same thing. What I actually have is not one of their hollowing systems. It's just a medium sized half-round tool with and adjustable round nosed Oland-type tip. It's what I generally use for end grain hollowing, like goblets. I haven't had any issues with it, of course I'm pretty inexperienced so maybe I just don't realize it could be easier!

[Mike A. Smith]

I am going to go "off the board" here and suggest the Rolly Munro mini hollowing tool... :eek: WAIT!!!:cool:
I use it for all kinds of things, inside and out (it cuts like CRAZY).

That's very interesting George. Does it do end-grain? And do the cutters have a good life span?

[George Guadiane]

That's very interesting George. Does it do end-grain? And do the cutters have a good life span?
HMMMmmmmmmm...
Eats end grain for breakfast and comes back for more. The cutters are very good, as far as I'm concerned. They are easy to sharpen and seem to last a really long time. I should say, that they have a round cupped cutter head and rotate to a new edge fairly easily. The thing I like the best (overall, there are so many things to like) is the articulated head.
The tool cuts like a gouge, making a shearing cut, if you work it properly.

[Gordon Seto]

The Hunter tool and Eliminator work around the same principal. The only difference is Munroe has a protective cap and articulate arm.

Gordon

[Curt Fuller]

Re: The Sorby "hollowing tool". I went back to Sorby's site to make sure we were talking about the same thing. What I actually have is not one of their hollowing systems. It's just a medium sized half-round tool with and adjustable round nosed Oland-type tip. It's what I generally use for end grain hollowing, like goblets. I haven't had any issues with it, of course I'm pretty inexperienced so maybe I just don't realize it could be easier!

I'll agree that the Hollowmaster works alright for some things. But when you're trying to hollow through a small opening and you get any kind of a catch it turns into a woodturners rodeo. You never know if the tool handle is going to beat you to death, the HF is going to explode, or if the chuck will just let go. But it's 8 seconds of excitement for sure.

[Keith Christopher]

Skew.

Once I developed skill with this tool I've never stopped using it.

For bowls the superflute.

[George Guadiane]

The Hunter tool and Eliminator work around the same principal. The only difference is Munroe has a protective cap and articulate arm.

Gordon
I'm not familiar with the Hunter tool, but I have used the Eliminator. It also has a hood over the cutter. The articulation is what makes th Munro a good value, with the eliminator, you need different shafts to do the job, Munro, one shaft, and an allen tool that is included. As I said, I ordered and use an extra link on the small one (I have them both)... Rolly was concerned that the extra reach might be more than the tool can handle, might be difficult to control. That has not been my experience. I have had little, if any problems keeping the tool where I want it.

[Mike A. Smith]

Thanks George! You've got me interested, this is going on the list of 'possibles'.

[George Guadiane]

Thanks George! You've got me interested, this is going on the list of 'possibles'.
(I hope that's a good thing) If you go that way and need some help on "taming the beast," let me know... I have already asked most of the questions and understood most of the answers.:D

[Don Orr]

I LOVE my Crown Pro PM 3/8" spindle gouges. I use them all the time. I have a long bevel fingernail type grind on them. They take and hold an edge very well. Very versatile for spindle work, end grain, and detail work on bowls.

But I have not tried any of the Thompson tools yet.:D

[Gordon Seto]

I LOVE my Crown Pro PM 3/8" spindle gouges. I use them all the time. I have a long bevel fingernail type grind on them. They take and hold an edge very well. Very versatile for spindle work, end grain, and detail work on bowls.

But I have not tried any of the Thompson tools yet.:D

Don,

Glad to meet you at the Escoulen demonstration at Yankee Symposium. If you do any of the off-center turning, the Thompson shallow flute detail gouge is beyond comparison. I have the Crown Pro PM spindle gouge and the Sorby spindle gouge; they have deeper flute than the Thompson shallow detail.

Here are the data:
Crown Pro PM: 0.254" steel remains underneath the flute
0.485" bar diameter

Sorby Spindle: 0.217" steel remains underneath the flute
0.496" bar diameter

Thompson shallow flute detail: 0.415" steel remains underneath the flute
0.517" bar diameter

Since the gouges have different standard on gouge size. I use the percentage as comparison: Crown 52%, Sorby 44% and Thompson 80%.

http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/tooltype.asp?TYPE=SD
His web site states 20% flute (but I can't measure the part that was milled away)

Even we disregard the difference in the quality in steel; the mass underneath the Thompson tool makes it a more rigid tool. It can overhang the tool rest far more before it starts chattering. On the other hand, a wider flute makes the gouge easier to control on long flowing curves.

Doug is a woodturner. I have been to his shop, he showed me a lot of experiments he had done with his prototypes. It is not just a better steel.

Give it a try, he has a buy-back guarantee. I'll bet you won't want to give it back.

Gordon

I have no financial interest in Thompson tool. Just like others, I have to pay for my Thompson Tools tee shirt. Proud to wear it.