How to adjust pocket hole jig

[John Seiffer]

I have a pocket hole jig like this one
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/phjig3.html
(Not the Kreg). It works fine. I've noticed in blurbs for the Kreg that it talks about being adjustable for wood of different thickness. I've been using only 3/4 thick wood and it works fine. I'm sure mine would adjust to thicker (even thinner) wood but there are no instructions.

Can someone tell me what to adjust and in what direction? Do I adjust the collar on the drill bit so it cuts deeper? Move the pocket hole guides? Which direction, how much etc?

If I knew the concept I think I could figure out how to apply it to my jig.
Thanks.

[Vernon Taylor]

With the Kreg system they include a riser block for use when using 2x material, this installed by rmoving the wing nut threaded rod and inserting the rider block and reinstaling the piece with the guides, there is a guage on the support wings for setting the depth collar to the correct depth. They also supply a longer bolt to hold the assemblu togrther. I have used this a lot in building raised garden beds and sandboxes for the grandkids.
In looking at your jug I don't see that it accomodates this.

[frank shic]

when using 2x material, i've discovered recently that you do not need to drill pocket holes if you start the screw at a 90 degree angle and angle it sharply after it penetrates approximately 1/8". the term for this is "toe-screwing".

[Jim Becker]

when using 2x material, i've discovered recently that you do not need to drill pocket holes if you start the screw at a 90 degree angle and angle it sharply after it penetrates approximately 1/8". the term for this is "toe-screwing".

Yes, this works fine for construction/home improvement, but pocket screw holes help guide the screw without distorting the position of the materials that you've clamped together. Only a slight variation from pressure during insertion of the screw can rack things out of kilter. The pre-drilling helps to alleviate that. So if I were going to use 6/4 or 8/4 stock, for example, with pocket screws for fine furniture, I'd drill the pockets!

[Roy Clarke]

You may be able to download instructions. In the meantime, the idea is that the drill bit cuts a hole so that it would emerge along the centreline (English spelling :D) of the wood. The block that guides the drill can be raised. So put the block at the bottom, and draw a line across the base of the jig. Next put a piece of your wood against the block, and draw another line. The drill should hit mid way between the lines, so raise the block with drill in position until the point touches the mid way point. Then raise the drill 1/8" above the base and fix the stop collar so the drill can't get any lower than this when you're drilling.

If you do this for a number of thicknesses, you can mark the back of the block so the settings are easier next time, and you could make a block with a "V" groove to lay the drill in and mark the length settings for various thicknesses.


STRUTH!!!! you pay $7 for a replacement drill bit, we have to pay £11 in the UK ($22)!!!!!!!!!! :eek:

[John Seiffer]

Thanks guys! Turns out the guides on mine can't be raised (mine is not exactly like the one in the picture which I think can be raised using the knob on the end).

Mine is designed so the screw hole is always 3/8 from the edge of the wood. So if I use this with thicker stock, the screws won't exit on centre or even on center. ;) Don't know how terrible that will be but I'll take it into account.

Thanks again.