New Member here with Unisaw Project

[Todd Ludwig]

Greeting guys ! I joined the forum as I just picked up a used Unisaw from the Habitat for Humanity store here in Phoenix. I went in the store looking for something else but this caught my eye and I picked it up. It was priced oddly at $248 and there was no tax either. It also came with a 52" Unifence and rail. It has a 3HP motor.

After getting it home and replacing my 230V receptacle to an L6-20, I plugged it in and it fired right up and sounded great. And after blowing off all the sawdust, it appears to be in better shape than I had anticipated. The belts need replacing for sure, as one was taught and the other 2 seemed real loose. They look pretty worn as well. I have many questions but I'll start with the basics.

1.) Where is a good source for belts? I found some on Mikestools.com for about $40 shipped. The current belts have Rockwell #49-124 printed on them.

2.) While I am at it, should I replace the arbor bearings since it will be in pieces for a while?

3.) Looking at the serial number (84H00476), is there a way to determine the date of this saw? Model #34-801

4.) Obviously, the motor cover is missing, but can you guys see anything else that may be missing? This is my first cabinet saw so if something else was missing, I wouldn’t even know it.

Here’s a link to my webspace with some pics. Hope this isn’t against the rules. If so let me know and I’ll edit this post. To be honest I wasn’t sure how to post the thumbails I see on here

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw (http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw)

I have been using a Rockwell Model 10 contractors saw for the last 5 years so this should be a nice upgrade for me. I have already ordered a mobile base online and will mount it up before rebuilding the saw. Basically I’m just looking for some tips to keep me pointed in the right direction with this project.

Thanks in advance. This forum is awesome with tons of information !!!

One thing I forgot. The wheel to tilt the motor is VERY stiff at first (takes 2 hands to move it) until it gets up to about 15 degrees, then it moves quite freely. I don't see anything obvious that would be causing this

Todd - Scottsdale, AZ

[Chris Rosenberger]

That is a very nice saw. It looks like it was very well taken care of. You got a great deal on it. I do not believe I would change the bearings unless the old ones are rough or make noise. It does not look like the saw has had alot of use. As for the stiffness in the hand wheel. Try spraying some lube on the bearing points & gear.

[Ed Falis]

Yeah, looks like you got yourself a super deal. Enjoy the refurb and the use!

[Frederick Rowe]

Welcome to SMC Todd. You've made a fine entrance with a gloat and photos. Your Unisaw looks to be in excellent condition, and at $250 a steal.

As for belts, I switched to link belts on my new Unisaw and found the saw to run more smoothly, and greatly reduces the start up jolt and shut down shudders. As far as the difficulty tilting the blade up to 15 degrees I'd first clean any debris from the worm gear, then watch the tilt shaft carefully as someone else turns the wheel. The shaft could be bent, or more likely, the collar may be jambed onto the worm gear. Make sure the mating teeth on the front trunnion are not damaged.

I pulled up the PDF owners manual and exploded diagrams for the 34-801 and emailed them to you, it might help in identifying parts. As far as when it was manufactured, I'd guess early 1980's. Check/post on OWWM.com (Old Wood-Working Machines) for a serial number look up table.

Enjoy your "new" Unisaw.

[Chuck Lenz]

As for belts, I switched to link belts on my new Unisaw and found the saw to run more smoothly, and greatly reduces the start up jolt and shut down shudders.
And here I JUST told someone in a different thread that I didn't think link belts worked on a Unisaw! Grrrrrrrrrr. There I go thinkin again. Is it Monday ?

[Todd Ludwig]

Well, one of the first things I did to my Model 10 was to put a machined pulley and link belt on it. I'll have to consider it for this saw. In any case, if I go with the regular belts, is $40 shipped a decent price? I don't seem to find a lot of sources for them.

[Frederick Rowe]

Hey Chuck, no worries. I think I read the same thing some time ago. According to the Fenner Drive web site, you can use them on any non automotive application.

[Burt Waddell]

According to Delta, They do not recommend link belts for unisaws. These belts should be a matched set. It has to do with how the link belts perform. Unfortunately, I don't remember the details.

[Todd Ludwig]

Try spraying some lube on the bearing points & gear.

What kind of lube? I'm assuming WD-40 is not the right stuff to use?

[Kermit Hodges]

Just take one of the belts to the auto parts and you get belts there. Thats where I get all mine.

[Matt Meiser]

On the age, According to the Old Woodworking Machines web site, Rockwell International was formed in 1973 and the stationary power tool business was sold to Pentair in 1984 and renamed back to Delta.

[Harvey Boshart]

Yuo can call delta with the model number and serial number and they can look up the date of manufacture as well as provide you with a faxed copy of a manual and parts list.

[Todd Ludwig]

Just take one of the belts to the auto parts and you get belts there. Thats where I get all mine.

Is this so? I have read so many times that they are a 'matched set' when you buy 3 for a Unisaw. Sounds like marketing hype to me but what do I know?

[Mark Berenbrok]

Try Grainger Industrial Supply for your belts. The three belts for my saw were less than $20.

[Chuck Wintle]

Try Grainger Industrial Supply for your belts. The three belts for my saw were less than $20.

Which model of saw do you have? Do you remember the belt number? And wouldn't the v-belts be the same for a particular model over the years. :)

[Todd Ludwig]

Mark, do you have the Grainger part number? I looked on there site and there are tons.

Charles - the saw is a 34-801. The belt is part number 49-124

[Greg Crawford]

Todd,

Most bearings you can now buy are made in China or Taiwan, even the brand names, like Timken. I've not had good luck with them, so if your bearings seem sound, I'd keep them.

[Dennis Peacock]

Todd,

Welcome to the Creek..!!! Great bunch of folks here, so just wade right on in and keep us posted in pics on the new TS setup.

[Todd Ludwig]

Yes I will. And after cleaning up the gears and lubing them up, everything turns very freely. If I spin the front wheel it continues for about 3 revolutions before it stops. Of course, that's with the motor off :) I've already rewired the switch to the control panel. The old one just crackled and fell apart when I took the switch off. I'm getting excited about this saw now.

[Mark Berenbrok]

It's a rebuilt 1951 model. The Dayton belts from Grainger were 4L290H.

[Matt Meiser]

What kind of lube? I'm assuming WD-40 is not the right stuff to use?

I've been having good luck with Teflon lube for stuff exposed to dirt. I'm sure you can buy it elsewhere, but I got mine at Lowes right by the WD-40, Liquid Wrench, and other lubes. The Teflon spray drys and doesn't attract dirt like the oily lubes.

[Todd Ludwig]

It's a rebuilt 1951 model. The Dayton belts from Grainger were 4L290H.

Are you sure? Unless my saw takes different sized belts or has different sized pulleys. That's a 29" belt. The belts I removed from my saw seem to be about 26" in outside length. There is also a part number 4L260 that seems to be the same except it is 26" instead of 29"

[Dave Laird in NM]

You should have a local Black & Decker service center there in your area.

Since it is a Unisaw and they now own Delta and Porter-Cable you will be able to get any available parts for your Unisaw directly from them (and they know how to get the correct part too).

[Dan Boschen]

Are you sure? Unless my saw takes different sized belts or has different sized pulleys. That's a 29" belt. The belts I removed from my saw seem to be about 26" in outside length. There is also a part number 4L260 that seems to be the same except it is 26" instead of 29"

That's right. Chances are the 1951 Unisaw has the 1725 rpm motor which has a 5.25 inch sheave, which takes the 4L290 or A27 belt. A Uni with a 3450 motor (like your saw) has a 3.25 inch sheave which uses a 4L260 or A24 belt.

As far as the link belts go, I would not recommend them for a Unisaw as it uses 3 belts and getting 3 link belts to be the same length is difficult (I speak from experience). One of the link belts in my Unisaw did not engage fully in the sheaves and provided no drive to the system. They are great for single groove sheaves, but do not use them in multi groove situations.

Take the above part numbers to Graingers or a good auto parts store to get your belts. Check them visually as you pick them up to ensure they match in length. Make sure you get power transmission belts and not automotive belts.

Dan Boschen
Amarillo, TX

[Chuck Lenz]

As far as the link belts go, I would not recommend them for a Unisaw as it uses 3 belts and getting 3 link belts to be the same length is difficult (I speak from experience). One of the link belts in my Unisaw did not engage fully in the sheaves and provided no drive to the system. They are great for single groove sheaves, but do not use them in multi groove situations.

Dan Boschen
Amarillo, TX
Dan, What brand of link belts were you useing ?

[Dan Boschen]

Dan, What brand of link belts were you useing ?

I was using the Fenner Drive Power Twist Belt (red belt). I use them on all of my other tools with single groove sheaves, but I saw an improvement in my Unisaw when I switched from the link belts to the standard belt. Vibration was decreased as the loose belt was eliminated from the drive train. My Unisaw is a 1949 model with a new Leeson 3450 rpm motor. I don't know how the link belts would affect a 1725 RPM motor, but they are already smoother running than a 3450 RPM motor due to the slower speed. Some day, I will find a good single phase bullet motor and find out.

Dan Boschen
Amarillo, TX

[Peter Stahl]

I would go with the 3 belts too. Also don't over tighten them as this will put stress on the bearings. Just tight enough so they don't slip on the pulleys. Good luck with the new saw and remember them powerful saw can throw the wood back at you a lot faster them the smaller saw. Safety first, you only get 10 fingers (usually anyway).

[Todd Ludwig]

I have my saw nearly complete. Pictures to follow soon. However, I cannot find my dial indicator. What is the next best method to align the table without an indicator? Also, the insert for the table, although a little beat up, will have to do for now. On my old Model 10 contractors saw, the insert bolted to the table. Apparently on a Unisaw, the insert does not bolt in. Is it supposed to just sit in there loose? There seems to be a lot of movement in it if it just sits on the table. And how in the world would I be able to make a zero clearance inserts if it can't fit in the slot tight? There are 4 set screws which seem to be for height adjustment. What am I missing here?

[David Duke]

On the insert there should be a couple of set screws in the side to adjust for horizontal movement. I bought ZC inserts and they have the same adjustment screws, if you build your own you could do the same thing.

[Ed Falis]

I don't have a Unisaw, so there may be some detail I'm missing. Sometimes the throat plates have set screws on the side or front or back as well as the ones for levelling. Those can be used to snug the fit a bit. Or you can cut your own or order blanks online for a zero clearance insert. The plastic ones are only about $10. There are also fancier alternatives made of metal with replacable wood inserts in them. Even if the fit is loose, you just clamp the cuttable ones down with your rip fence (being careful about where it is relative to the blade), turn on the say with the blade down, and slowly bring it up through the insert to make the kerf.

I've never tried to align one without a dial indicator, so can't help you there. Actually, I'm pretty sure Howard Acheson has posted a way of doing it somewhere on the net using a brass bolt and nut. May want to google for it.

[Todd Ludwig]

Here's a pic of the insert. No set screws. I guess this is not the right insert for this saw? It has a number stamped in it 422-04-063-2001

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw/insert.jpg

[John Lucas]

Here's a pic of the insert. No set screws. I guess this is not the right insert for this saw? It has a number stamped in it 422-04-063-2001

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw/insert.jpg

It has been a long week. I looked at the picture of the insert and saw the beautiful grain behind it and immediately thought that it must be the Unisaw top...why not, granite ones are coming.
Anyway, from a person who sold his Unisaw one week ago and is suffering from withdrawals, you got a real gem. Way more than a bargain...a super real gem. The left handwheel for tilt will always be the harder to turn. Just clean it good like you have it now and use a dry lubricant on it. One other thing that worked for me, you will find set screws on the trunion to be set for 90º and 45º. When sawdust gets in there, it will be hard to get to either stop. While you can keep it clean, I found it easier to set both stops a degree further and use an engineers square to set the 90º and 45º. Incra has great 90 and 45º "squares".

[Todd Ludwig]

Thanks John. Sorry to hear you are missing your saw. That is bubinga veneer that I put on a set of huge Klipsch La Scala speakers a couple years ago. It is beautiful wood.

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw/ls13wl.jpg

[Chris Rosenberger]

Here's a pic of the insert. No set screws. I guess this is not the right insert for this saw? It has a number stamped in it 422-04-063-2001

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw/insert.jpg

That is the correct insert. I have not seen an OEM Unisaw insert the had set screws in the sides. I have purchased alot of Unisaw OEM inserts over the years. Some fit tight & some did not. I also have had a few that I had to grind on to get them to fit. The openings in the tops vary in size & the inserts vary in size.
I like that wood.:D

[Todd Ludwig]

I just went to a nearby woodworking store and they wanted $49.95 for a new insert. Instead I just bought a couple of the blanks for $10 each to make my own. You are correct though, there are no set screws on any of the Delta inserts. I also stopped by Harbor Freight to pick up a $10 dial indicator. The woodworking store had 3 used Unisaws for sale, from $999 up to $1299. Mine looks better than all 3 of them :)

[Josiah Bartlett]

I like the Rockler inserts. My local store has them on sale every 6 months or so, so I get a few then. I have 5 of them, one set up like the original, on zero clearanced for my rip blade, one for my combi blade, one for the dado, and one set up at 45 degrees for miter cuts.

You can drill and tap some set screws in your stock aluminum insert. I was going to, but it was warped anyway.

[Todd Ludwig]

Well, here it is so far. I just need to build my extension table. I am quite amazed at how quiet and smooth this saw runs. Can't wait to run some wood through it.

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw/Picture1.jpg

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw/Picture3.jpg


http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw/Picture4.jpg

[Todd Ludwig]

I am looking for extension table support legs. Preferably with a metal frame that will stiffen the extension table. Something like this:

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw/UnisawExtensionFrame2.JPG

only I would want the legs to go straight down to my mobile base. (see pics in prior post) Is there a place that sells anything like this, or would I have to make it?

Also, what kind of material is best for the table top? Melamine? MDF? What do you guys use?

Thanks, Todd

[Nancy Laird]

Todd, see if you can find a countertop shop that makes laminate tops. Most of them will have some kickbacks or throwaways stashed back and will let you have them for cost or less just to get rid of them. You won't have much choice of color, but you can cut one of them down to make your extension table. You'll have to make or buy a rear rail for it, but for the price you'll pay, it can't be beat. Just edge it with some hard maple and you're set.

Nancy (96 days)

[Dwayne Watt]

Matched belts are matched in length to more exacting standard than three belts of the same part number might be. The length tolerances for a given belt can be as must as 0.15" different and still be in spec. Putting these type of belts in a multi belt situation means that one or two belts could be carrying the load force intended to be on all three as in this Unisaw case due to difference in belt tensions. This means belts will have a much shorter life than designed. The amount of use a saw experiences in a hobbyist shop can be relatively small compared to an industrial application, so the belt life (in years of age, not use) might be acceptable. I doubt that proper matched belts would ever wear out in a hobbyists shop. They might degrade (rot), but never fail due to life/load condition.
Poor quality belts that have non-uniform cross-sectional properties are the most typical source of vibration on woodworking equipment. For the record, I am neither condemning nor condoning link-belts usage in a single belt application, but a good quality v-belt does not univerally exhibit the nasty vibrations broadly associated with them on table saws. In this case, it sounds like a new set of matched v-belts is in order.

[Grant Vanbokklen]

Todd,
Nice saw and great deal. I too just got a saw similar to yours, maybe a bit older, and for just a tad more than you paid. To follow Nancy's suggestion you could just get a piece of angle iron for the back and paint it delta gray. That is what I've seen other do, but not sure if the posts were here or elsewhere. Anyway I just found this site that shows recommended tuneup. Probably a bit late for your project but for future refrence anyway. I'm going to try some of the lubricants they suggest. And the belt tension. What belts did you go with?
http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/TableSawTune.pdf

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I do not recommend link belts for a multi-belt set up like yours. Link belts may not seat themselves evenly between the three belts. A good choice is a cog belt which is available from Grianger or McMaster-Carr (both have websites). You need to measure the belt length using a string and the belt width.

By the way...nice score. The Unifence must have been added since they did not become available until the mid 1980s long after Rockwell became Delta.

-Jeff :)

[Todd Ludwig]

I don't know. The fence says Rockwell Unifence, with the older Rockwell logo. It doesn't say Delta on it anywhere. But it may well have been added. I like it though.

[Todd Ludwig]

That looks like a real nice condition saw too. I noticed it says Delta on it though, so it may not be older than mine. I really don't know what the time line is, but I thought they added the Delta name after Delta bought Rockwell.

I just built an MDF extension table today with some wooden support legs, just so I can use the saw to build a better one. It's a sacrificial extension, if you will. The angle iron sounds like a good idea. I was looking at it at Home Depot not 2 hours ago.

I bought a set of belts from a seller on ebay. They were $17.50 for the set. They seem to be a perfect fit

[Grant Vanbokklen]

Did you also get that base and the fence system in the original deal from Habitat for Humanity? Or did you pay more for that stuff than you did the saw? Now I just need to get a base, and all the prices I can find are a fifth of the price of the saw...just for a small base :eek: !

[Todd Ludwig]

Yes the 52" fence and rail came with it. I bought the Delta 50-289 mobile base on ebay also, for $80 + $27 shipping. The base, belts, inserts and blade are the only things I have bought so far. I figure by the time I finish the extension table, I'll have about $500 into it.

[Keith Beck]

You picked that up at a Habitat for Humanity?! Why don't any of my local Thrift stores have stuff like that? That's a heck of a gloat! :D

Keith

[Todd Ludwig]

LOL - I know I don't usually find bargains like this either. I put my Model 10 saw up on Craigslist. I actually sold it yesterday but last week a guy came to look at the contractors saw. My mistake was the Unisaw was sitting right next to it in the garage. He spent more time looking at the Unisaw than the Model 10. Needless to say he didn't even make an offer.

[Jack Holt]

I replaced mine with the kind that you add links to. Twist together type. I have never regreted it. Jack:)

[Don Meyers]

Hi, I am a new member here and have been reading about your find. Looks great. I have the exact same saw. It was given to me. It sat in my storage container for about 10 years before we cleaned it off and cranked it up. You are really going to like this saw. Anyway, I guess my point is I have had to get a few things for it (i.e., throat plate, wrenchs, dado insert, etc.) and found two good sources on the net. One is sawcenter.com...they know alot about these saws and have, or seem to be able to get parts. I think they are in western MA. The other site is webberwoodworking.com. I have never ordered from them but they look like they have a bunch of parts available. The original laminate covered particle board extention table was damage recently and I ended up making my own out of birch ply. I think the legs you want can be ordered and easily mount to the bottom of the table. Mine are adjustable. Best of luck with it.

[Todd Ludwig]

Thanks for the tip Don. I made my extension table from 3/4" MDF laminated with formica and edged in walnut. My local woodworking store happened to have a set of support legs and rails on hand for $50. (The color is a little different) I will probably make a lower shelf for it as well when I get the time since I have the brackets for it now.

http://tjludwig.com/misc/unisaw/extension.jpg

[Don Meyers]

Todd,

That really looks great. Once you get it going, I'd love to know what you think of the dust collection (if you are using a system).

I made a motor cover with a 4" port in it and hooked it to my system, but still found that I had a good deal of dust accumulating inside the saw. I then added another port to the back lower area, with only marginal improvement. I'd be interested in your experience.

[Todd Ludwig]

Thanks Don. I do not have any type of dust collection set up. I normally roll whatever tool I am using outside of the garage, and when I'm done, I sweep up what I can. The rest gets blown into the neighbor's yard with a leaf blower:) One day I hope to have a dedicated shop where my tools can be more stationary.