Linkbelts

[Chuck Wintle]

I need to replace the v-belts on my saw and may go with the linkbelts. What advantages/problems could i expect from them and what size length should I get? I see there is 3/8 and 1/2 inch sizes. Thanks. :D

[Tom Leftley]

I use link belts on several power tools and have always had good luck. The tool run smoother, quieter and have yet to replace any of them.
Suggest you take the original v-belt with you to ensure getting the correct size.

[glenn bradley]

Size them using your old belts as a guide. My old contractor saw took 1/2" belts as does my DP. Some folks poo-poo them but I had immediate improvement and use them still.

[Chuck Wintle]

Size them using your old belts as a guide. My old contractor saw took 1/2" belts as does my DP. Some folks poo-poo them but I had immediate improvement and use them still.
Why would some poo-poo them?
I think the belts on my saw is 1/2 inch in width. That seems to be standard for Delta saws. I plan to mail order them so i need the length. But links can be added and removed to make the correct length? :)

[Lee Schierer]

Link belts will lessen the vibration in your saw. However I believe, they do not deliver the same rated torque as a regular v-belt. While you are replacing things, consider replacing the drive pullies if they are cast aluminum with machined steel pullies.

[Bill Huber]

I put one on my 54 year old Craftmans TS and could not believe the difference. The belt that was on it was only about 2 years old but when I put the the link belt on it was like someone turned the volume down. Now the shop vac makes more noise then the saw.

There have been people make the statement that they give you more power, I am not sure about that but the noise difference for me was just unreal.

[Chuck Wintle]

Link belts will lessen the vibration in your saw. However I believe, they do not deliver the same rated torque as a regular v-belt. While you are replacing things, consider replacing the drive pullies if they are cast aluminum with machined steel pullies.
The pulleys are machined steel already. They only had a small amount of surface rust on them.
If they don't deliver the same power as regular v-belts is it because they stretch while in use. Could it be that as the load on the motor increases they deform and lose contact with the pulley? Dunno much about them.

[Jerry Allen]

I doubt if they lose power if adjusted properly and are mounted in the correct direction. Mine seem a lot tougher than regular belts.
The only way they would lose power if if they were slipping. It could be the torque rating is lower, but I don't know. Check here: http://www.fptgroup.com/products/synchronous_belts.asp
I have seen posts where it sounded like the person didn't install it correctly. They are a little pricey (5ft. at Amazon is ~26$). And they are not bi-directional. The only poo-poos I can think of. Noise generally equates to wasted power. I can only say that I am very pleased with the performance on my band saw and jointer. Both machines never worked as well without them.

[Tyler Howell]

I had to chase my Cman TS around the shop on start up and shut down.
Linked belt and machined pulleys changed all that.
It's still a Cman but quiet and smooth.

[Chuck Wintle]

The appeal of the linkbelt for me is they go on without removing anything. With a regular belt I would need to dissassemble part of the saw to install them.

[glenn bradley]

Why would some poo-poo them?
I think the belts on my saw is 1/2 inch in width. That seems to be standard for Delta saws. I plan to mail order them so i need the length. But links can be added and removed to make the correct length? :)

I didn't mean to imply folks stated that they weren't good. I've read posts where folks have stated that they feel the cost isn't justified. All I can say is "ask an owner". I'm sold. Except for very unusual circumstances, they seem like they would be the last belt you ever buy for a machine; very tough.

[Chuck Lenz]

The appeal of the linkbelt for me is they go on without removing anything. With a regular belt I would need to dissassemble part of the saw to install them.
Charles, what type of a saw are you putting them on ?

[Chuck Wintle]

Its a unisaw, an older type, that requires 3 belts. The pulleys are machined.

[Chuck Lenz]

Charles, I'm not sure that you can use link belts on a Unisaw.

[Chuck Wintle]

Charles, I'm not sure that you can use it on a Unisaw.

What makes you say that?

[Chuck Lenz]

The question has come up in here before and if I remember right you can't use link belts on a Unisaw, aparently Delta doesn't recommend it.

[Frederick Rowe]

I put link belts on my new Unisaw and saw an immediate improvement. The saw ran smoothly on the factory belts, but jumped on start up and shuddered on shut down. Fenner link belts cured both. I recommend them.

[Steve Clardy]

I'm perfectly happy with my 3-link belts on my Griz cabinet saw.

I'll put them on again if they ever wear out. Its been 6-7 years now I guess;)

[Ken Shoemaker]

Best money I ever spent.

[Chuck Lenz]

I agree, I have the Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt on several of my machines and have been very happy with them.

[Brian Kent]

I'm perfectly happy with my 3-link belts on my Griz cabinet saw.

I'll put them on again if they ever wear out. Its been 6-7 years now I guess;)

Steve, what size and how long, if you remember? I am interested in putting some on my Grizzly 1023.

[Rod Sheridan]

Belts that are used in multiple sheave drives, are matched sets so that the belts share the load properly.

Link belts aren't available in matched sets, so aren't suitable for multiple sheave drives.........Rod.

[Kyle Kraft]

Rod, I respectfully disagree. Check the Fenner Power Twist info, and you'll see them used on multiple groove sheaves....I'm talking 6 grooves, maybe more. Also, my rep from Applied stated that "matched" belts really are a thing of the past, as the manufacturing methods and technology has improved so much that each belt is essentially matched to each other for a given size.

I use the Power Twist belts on my JET cabinet saw and noticed a definite improvement in the vibration department

No, I don't work for Fenner, Applied, or Goodyear.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I'd like to hear from more people with linked belts on Unisaws. I have a 37-450 Rockwell and I replaced my belts with new ones from Delta. The guy I talked to at Rockler told me the same old story about link belts. I only use the saw one day out of the week and they develop a pretty good set and vibrate a lot until they warm up and soften. I suspect that the 3-sheave system is way overkill for a 2 hp motor anyway, and that load-sharing between belts won't be a big deal. In fact, I suspect that if you get the links all from the same manufacturing lot that the belts match pretty well.

[Chuck Lenz]

Maybe a guy should call Delta and Fenner drives and see what they both have to say about this issue of link belts on Unisaws.

[Matt Meiser]

Logically, I can't see why it would hurt to not use "matched" belts as long as you tighten the belts so that none are overtight. If one or two of the belts are slightly loose, you might lose some power transmission capabilities, but the experience from those who've done it seems to indicate otherwise. And there's a pretty wide range of "tightness" that works in real life.

There is supposed to be a difference between industrial belts and automotive belts according to the guy at my local auto parts store that stocks both. The price difference is pretty insignificant, and I don't recall what he said was different. I've also bought proper industrial belts at Tractor Supply (which is a pretty good source for pulleys too.) The numbering scheme is somewhat different.

[glenn bradley]

Its a unisaw, an older type, that requires 3 belts. The pulleys are machined.

Multiple pulleys are no problem:
http://www.fennerdrives.com/assets/ptp_baggage_handler.jpg

[Chuck Lenz]

The difference in a automotive belt and a electric motor belt is the pitch on the sides of the belt. Automotive belts aren't recomended for electric motors, the pulleys are different. Thats what I was told by a automotive parts guy when I brought in a belt to have replaced.

[Chuck Wintle]

Maybe a guy should call Delta and Fenner drives and see what they both have to say about this issue of link belts on Unisaws.

I called Fenner today and they said there linkbelt will work in the application I have which is the triple pulley Unisaw.:)

[Chuck Lenz]

I called Fenner today and they said there linkbelt will work in the application I have which is the triple pulley Unisaw.:)
Learn something new everyday. Thanks for leting us all know Charles. One more mystery solved.

[Greg Crawford]

Belts that are used in multiple sheave drives, are matched sets so that the belts share the load properly.

Link belts aren't available in matched sets, so aren't suitable for multiple sheave drives.........Rod.
The link belts are just a series of links that are all the same size. Unless their QC really sucks, if you put 30 links in one belt it should be matched to 30 links in another belt, shouldn't it? I have a Griz 8" jointer with 2 belts that I really want to put link belts on, and will do it when the budget allows. I have no reservations about the matching issue. My Unisaw will come after my drill press.

BTW, I think Grizzly has the best prices. I think it's between 5 and 6 dollars per foot. If there's a better price somewhere, a link to that would be great!

Greg

[Chuck Lenz]

I think Grizzly has the best prices. I think it's between 5 and 6 dollars per foot. If there's a better price somewhere, a link to that would be great!

Greg
I buy mine locally at Motion Industries. No shipping, and no waiting unless they are out of stock which hasn't happened yet. I started with Fenner Drives PowerTwist belts and I'll continue to buy them.

[glenn bradley]

The link belts are just a series of links that are all the same size. Unless their QC really sucks, if you put 30 links in one belt it should be matched to 30 links in another belt, shouldn't it? I have a Griz 8" jointer with 2 belts that I really want to put link belts on, and will do it when the budget allows. I have no reservations about the matching issue. My Unisaw will come after my drill press.

BTW, I think Grizzly has the best prices. I think it's between 5 and 6 dollars per foot. If there's a better price somewhere, a link to that would be great!

Greg

There are two Grainger's near me. One will sell it by the foot and the other won't. Both get about $6 a foot. Given the improvement and their longevity, they're really reasonable.

[Richard Butler]

No one mentioned the fact that the fenner belts rub up against the bottom of the table when the arbor is cranked all the way up on a Unisaw.

[Pat Keefe]

My powertwist belt also rubs on my generic contractor saw, so I lose 1/4" (6mm) off the maximun height of the blade. My Fidax Pedestal Drill has enough space in the head that the powertwist does not rub anywhere. On the lathe, it's rubbing, but I am trying to work out a fix, without removing the guard.

[Chuck Lenz]

My powertwist belt also rubs on my generic contractor saw, so I lose 1/4" (6mm) off the maximun height of the blade.
On my Delta 34-445 Contractors tablesaw when I used the stock V-belt I would have to back the blade down at full height because it would push the insert up. I allways thought it was because of the arbor flange. I never noticed if I lost any height with the PowerTwist link belt, I'll have to check it one of these days. I haven't noticed any wear on the top of the belt. What does bother me though is a couple times I put the blade all the way down and the arbor will rub on one of the trunion bars. If there is a adjustment for that I'd sure like to know where it is, I've never seen it in the manual.

[Matt Meiser]

Does anyone ever run their blade all the way up though? Especially on a contractor saw with a 1-2HP motor! Its good to know, but I don't know that that's a real limitation.

[Greg Mann]

Running up to the limit of travel is generally not a good idea. Many saws get in a slight bind at that point and skew the blade alignment. It seems there was a thread a couple months ago where someone found this out when checking their TS with a new alignment gauge. I can't remember what brand of TS it was. With all the other plusses the Fenner belts provide it seems like a slight price to pay that you can't do something you probably shouldn't do anyway.

[Chuck Lenz]

Does anyone ever run their blade all the way up though? Especially on a contractor saw with a 1-2HP motor! Its good to know, but I don't know that that's a real limitation.
If a contractors tablesaw can't handle a full cut, why do they make them in 10" ?