Decommisioning Garage Door

[Greg Peterson]

I've ordered new garage doors for the shop (AKA garage to LOML). I'm planning on doing the install myself.

However, decommissioning the existing doors is an interesting prospect. It's the old torsion spring style and not sure what is the best method to relieve the tension on the spring system.

Any idea's?

[Greg Funk]

I've ordered new garage doors for the shop (AKA garage to LOML). I'm planning on doing the install myself.

However, decommissioning the existing doors is an interesting prospect. It's the old torsion spring style and not sure what is the best method to relieve the tension on the spring system.

Any idea's?

Normally, one of the ends has a sprocket with 4 holes in it. I think you can use a couple of old tire irons or other solid bars. Put one of the bars in a hole, loosen off whatever is holding the sprocket to the main bar and slowly release the tension by turning the sprocket 1/4 turn at a time.

Greg

[John Schreiber]

You can do it as Greg described above, but there is a lot of tension in those springs and they can cause a lot of damage. After my first try, (darn near wet my pants) I called a pro.

[Derek Tuchscherer]

As Greg funk described, I have relieved the tension off of a few garage door springs and it really isn't all that bad. The things to be sure of are...

- Make sure the bars actually fit the holes (don't use "whatever is handy") ie if the holes are 1/2" use 1/2 " steel bars.

- Have a helper to undo the lock bolts while you hold the bars tightly. (Especially if on a ladder)

- Release the tension 1/4 turn at a time (always use two bars if possible)

If you proceed like this you will find it to be actually an easy task...it is a little nerve racking the first time until you know for sure which way the bars are going, but once you figure that out it isn't that bad. The first one I did was my uncle's garage and the spring looked to be about 30 years old and welded in several places...now that was really nerve racking...just sat there and waited for the damn thing to explode.

Take your time, hold on tight and you shouldn't have a problem.

Derek

[Kyle Kraft]

That's some good advice from Derek. As long as your 2 bars (did I mention two bars?) fit the holes in the tensioner closely....a sliding fit, not a press fit you will do fine. Hold the bars firmly while pressing them into the holes and have a buddy loosen the set screws. Just hand over hand until the tension is off....no sweat. I use 1/2" stainless rods about 24" long and that will give you plenty of leverage. Just take your time and work safely.

[Greg Peterson]

Okey Dokey. I thought that was how it worked. Not one of those things where you want to find out after you get knee deep into it.

Thanks guys.

[Nancy Laird]

I will echo the BE CAREFUL warnings - those things are vicious. To the point that one of them took off against LOML's hand, broke three bones and a knuckle, severed a tendon, caused a 9-day hospitalization, and nearly cost him two fingers. Were it not for one fantastic hand surgeon at Naval Hospital Portsmouth (VA), he'd be known as three-fingered Dave!

Nancy (108 days)

[Lee Schierer]

SInce this door will be replaced with a new one.....

What would happen if you just cut the door support wires and let the spring unwind? It would probably make lots of noise, stir up some dust and shake off some rust, but it couldn't go anywhere can it? As long as you were clear of the wire as it is cut everything should be okay? Again if this is totally unsafe just say so.

I've never had to deal with one of these, but did have one break a wire at a place I worked. It was really loud and knocked the dust loose on the spring.

[Greg Peterson]

Thought about raising the doors and then cutting the cables. For about a second or two. Just doesn't seem right.

I replaced the struts on one of my cars a long time ago and using a spring coil compressor sure makes you feel alive. Springs and coil springs just have a tendency to keep me ultra aware.

[M Toupin]

Greg, There's several different mechanisms out there. Some Use a sprocket system, some a screw type tensioner and yet others a torsion bar. Figure out which type you have and then get the proper directions on tensioning/detensioning it. A google search on garage door repair should get you headed in the right direction or post some pics and someone can probably help you out. It's really not rocket science, but like anything, it can bite you if you don't pay attention.:D

Mike

[Greg Peterson]

Doesn't look terribly complicated. Couple big springs wound really tight. Just want to make sure that there isn't something not obvious in the system.
Last thing I need is a torsion spring coming apart in front of my face while standing on a ladder. Recipe for disaster.

[Jude Tuliszewski]

I removed and replaced the door of my two car garage a few years ago. It was much easier than I expected. I think most people are nervous about doing it themselves because of the hype of the door installers. I you take your time and practice sound judgment it should be no problem. The springs on mine door got 7 full turns, which didn’t seem like a lot of pressure when I was winding them up but the door almost raised itself. One thing I did was to beef up the long tube that the springs and cable wheels go on by putting ½ inch galvy pipe inside the full length of the tube. I did not want to worry about crushing the tube from tightening the spring set screws too much. With the galvy pipe inside the tube I tightened all set screws using German torque goodintight :D . I also used larger lag screws to mount the brackets that go in the middle top that hold the tube and springs as well as the tracks that mount to the front of the garage. To turn the springs I bought a 4 foot long ½ inch thick steel rod at the Borg and cut it in half, and it worked out great. Good fit in the holes, not to long but not to short. I took my time and made sure that the rod was fully seated in the hole before applying any pressure. It saved me around 6 bills by doing it myself.

[Steve Clardy]

As Greg funk described, I have relieved the tension off of a few garage door springs and it really isn't all that bad. The things to be sure of are...

- Make sure the bars actually fit the holes (don't use "whatever is handy") ie if the holes are 1/2" use 1/2 " steel bars.

- Have a helper to undo the lock bolts while you hold the bars tightly. (Especially if on a ladder)

- Release the tension 1/4 turn at a time (always use two bars if possible)

If you proceed like this you will find it to be actually an easy task...it is a little nerve racking the first time until you know for sure which way the bars are going, but once you figure that out it isn't that bad. The first one I did was my uncle's garage and the spring looked to be about 30 years old and welded in several places...now that was really nerve racking...just sat there and waited for the damn thing to explode.

Take your time, hold on tight and you shouldn't have a problem.

Derek


Yes. Great advice;)

I actually made a place to hang/keep my two 1/2" bars up above on the door header. I always know where they are at.

[Kyle Kraft]

Great idea Steve, on the rod storage above the door. That will keep my kids from leaving them in the yard!!!

[Derek Tuchscherer]

I hear you Steve, mine are in the bottom drawer of my toolbox...and I've leant them out about four times in a year to other people.

[Matt Meiser]

Great idea Steve, on the rod storage above the door. That will keep my kids from leaving them in the yard!!!

Hitting those with the mower probably hurts as bad as the springs coming loose. :)