I want to turn a sink

[Tom Keen]

Im installing a half-bath and am thinking about making a sink..basin...or as Lowes calles them a "vessel".

Has anyone done this? Im not sure what kind of wood to use or how to put a finish it in a way that would make it durable and waterproof..

Any help would be appreciated!

TIA,
Tom

[Rich Souchek]

Tom,
Try a goggle search on the web for this.
Remember seeing and reading about this, but do not remember where.
What I do remember was some people who were using home construction scrap wood to build sinks, and bathtubs. They laminated the scrap 2x4s into rough shape, then ground and sanded them into the shape they wanted. Believe the finish was epoxy to keep the water out.
Looked like douglas fir or pine scap 2x4s about 8" long were used.
Rich S.

[TYLER WOOD]

I think most any wood, as long as it is epoxied, would work fine. Just dependind on the look you are wanting, if you want it laminated or if you want a solid chunk.

[Paul Heely]

I think some type of epoxy is what you would want for the finish. I would start with a boat yard if you have any near you, I live near the coast in New England so we have them by the dozens. I would think they would know as much about waterproofing wood as anyone.

[Don McIvor]

I have been tempted to turn a wood sink, but haven't convinced myself it would be worth the effort. I've seen a number, including several that Chris Wright has turned and posted over at turnwood.net. I think you can get away with a wood sink if it is not heavily used--a guest bath or lightly used half-bath would probably be about the right amount of use. I have seen them made out of walnut, maple, birch, etc., but personally I would pick a material that is dimensionally stable and has been historically used in high water exposure situations (teak, mahogany, redwood). Epoxy is the most waterproof finish for wood, letting only about 3% water transmission. Getting it to adhere to oily woods can be a challenge. The other option for a finish is to go with a penetrating oil like tung oil.

Good luck, and post a picture for us!

[Kevin McPeek]

I've thought about this as well.
I thought they used Spar Varnish on wood boats... either way, whatever works.
As far as wood goes, I think I'd go towards a stable, tight grained wood if you are going to do it as a solid block, seems like it would be easier to get it sealed up well. Or I suppose the next bowl that goes a little deep would be fine for a prototype. I'd use mesquite myself because it's fairly easy to get around here and is pretty stable.

[Jim Becker]

I've thought about this as well.
I thought they used Spar Varnish on wood boats...

"Spar Varnish" is formulated to be very flexible and soft so that it can stick to the moving...spars...of boats. It's not special in any way relative to moisture/water exposure

A resin is the best bet for "waterproofing" this kind of project and so is the choice of species. With some tropicals, you may not even need the finish...or be able to get it to stick well with water involved.

[Bill Wyko]

I've seen a segmented wood bathtub before but I don't rember where.:o

[Bill Stevener]

Most folks don't like turning it, but they use Oak for barrels and they don't leak.
You can try the the two part mix that is used in decoupage for a coating. Expensive but it holds up well to water.

[Dave Dionne]

My brother went to school to build traditional wooden boats and I know a couple of guys that make custom canoes and Kayaks and they all use the West system epoxy.
You can get is mail order easy enough

Good luck can't wait to see it.

Dave

[Dick Strauss]

Tom,
I'd suggest you thin the epoxy for the first few coats to get wood penetration. Some use DNA...others use solvents.