Crosscutting bench top

[Jared Cuneo]

I'm looking for some suggestions on the best way to trim the ends of my newly glued up benchtop. It's 1.75" thick and birch, so its not light :) Not sure if I want to run this over the table saw as I don't have enough side support, though I guess I could get a helper. I'm just not sure the feed would be consistent (or safe) with 2 people pushing the top through the blade.

I have a circ saw I guess I could use with a straightedge but its blade leaves something to be desired, is that a better method?

Thanks!

JC

[nick brigg]

humm...i saw a method which ill be using on my bench top soon enough. you make a track for a router with a straight bit, and sorta hog out a groove on both sides of the benchtop. then i guess you could use a flush trim bit to even things out. donno if that makes sense, but it does in my head :)

[Justin Bukoski]

You could use a router with a straight edge and a flush trim bit. Cut half way through on each side.

[Max Lucciola]

I did mine with a circular saw and straight edge and had pretty good luck. I used a new "finish-type" blade to ensure good results. My top was a bit thicker than yours so I could not cut all of the way through. I sawed the underside 1/8" wider and cleaned it up with a flush-trim router bit.

[Emmanuel Weber]

If you can't use your table saw I would start with the circular saw and finish with a router mounted with a flush trim bit (if needed).

[Jason Beam]

I did mine with my router and a straight edge to start, then a flush trim bit for the rest. My top is 2 1/4" maple so pretty similar to what you're working with. My circular saw helped, too.

Trim with your circular saw as much as you can - get it close like you're routing a pattern and rough cutting with a bandsaw. Otherwise your router will have to work overtime to take full width cuts and you may run into issues.

Best way I can describe this process was this: Stright bit in the router, using a guide, run as deep as you can without vibration. Then come in with a pattern bit and no guide to deepen that rabbet so that there is only about 1/2" or so left to go. Then flip the whole mess over and use a flush trim bit to remove the rest.

I have a really long straight bit with something like 2 1/2" cutting length, but I found that even with a 1/2" shank, the end of that bit vibrated enough to leave a rough surface. This is why I switched to flush trim and pattern bits.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

A friend is in the process of making a trestle table (among other things) and wants to breadboard the ends on which means he has to flush the end where the boards are not completely lined up. He has tried using a flush trim bit but is having problems with chipout and the top is too thick for him to use a backer with the bit he has. You might keep that in mind and try the router on some scrap if you have any to see how it works first.

[glenn bradley]

As much money in wood that a top requires I wouldn't hesitate to use it as an excuse to buy a good crosscut blade for my circ-saw. Then use a straight edge for guide.

I'll assume we're talking end grain so a guided router could be used with a very sharp bit (large diameter pattern bit preferred) and sacraficial blocks to avoid blowout at the end of the cut. You would cut within 1/8" to 1/16" of the line with a jigsaw or circ-saw (watch for tearout, don't use your so-so blade) and clean up with the router.

[Tom Hargrove]

Here is a slight variation on the router technique.

Using a straight edge as a guide and a straight router bit (I use 1/2"), cut a dado with the inside shoulder at the point where the end of the table edge will be. However, cut the dado only about 1/4" or so deep. Use a backer board at the end of the cut, and leave it in place through all steps. At this point, the straight edge can be removed.

Using any kid of portable saw (jig saw, circular saw or hand saw) cut off the waste, cutting through the middle of the dado. You will have about 1/16" to 1/8" waste left on the end of the table.

Switch to a top bearing pattern bit of the same diameter as the one used to cut the dado, and use this to cut off the waste left by the saw. It may take multiple passes to clean up the entire table top thickness.

Good luck.

You do not need to use a razor sharp saw blade, since chipping and tear out will be limited to the bottom of the dado, or defeated by the backer at the end of the cut. However, the router bits should be razor sharp. This method does not require long bits and their attendant vibration, and leaves a nice finish that can be cleaned up with a scraper or hand plane if necessary. It can also be used on circles or other irregular shapes.

[Jared Cuneo]

I'm surprised at the amount of router suggestions.

I'm open to this method, but would buying a new blade for my CS be a better option (cleaner cut with less post cut work)?

The router option seems to be a lot more involved and a greater chance for error....

JC

[Peter Stahl]

I'm surprised at the amount of router suggestions.

I'm open to this method, but would buying a new blade for my CS be a better option (cleaner cut with less post cut work)?

The router option seems to be a lot more involved and a greater chance for error....

JC

With a long straight bit and a good straight edge/board for the router to run against you can make a really nice edge. Just go about a 1/4 inch at a time. If you use a CS score the wood with a razor knife to help with tear out.

[Mike Spanbauer]

The circ saw should work fine with a good blade. I would recommend the same method as a professional shop would use on sheet goods though to reduce the tear out.... clamp a straight edge tightly to the top. then proceed with a shallow cut (1/4-1/2") for your first pass and then proceed to cut through it completely on the 2nd.

You will want a fresh blade and I've had stellar luck w/ the Freud Diablo TK 7 1/4"'s from HD. Also, to avoid the blow out at the backside / exit edge on both cuts, I would recommend some backing material as well on the edge attached with double sided tape or you could clamp it as well.

It can be done, just not going to be as baby heiny smooth as a router bit. It'll be as smooth as anything else on the top though I'd bet.

mike

[Jim Heffner]

I think your best bet would be to buy a new circular saw blade, use a good straight edge guide, clamp it down securely, take your time and check everything twice before making the cut and go to it! Jim Heffner

[glenn bradley]

Cheap Guided Circular Saw System:

[Doug Shepard]

I did mine with a circular saw and straight edge and had pretty good luck. I used a new "finish-type" blade to ensure good results. My top was a bit thicker than yours so I could not cut all of the way through. I sawed the underside 1/8" wider and cleaned it up with a flush-trim router bit.

I'm going to have this same problem before too long and so far this is one
getting my vote. Dont recall off the top of my head how deep my 7-1/4 CS cuts though. My top is going to be 4".

[Jared Cuneo]

I wound up using a CS with a new 40 tooth carbide blade (Irwin), I took Peter's suggestion of a 1/4" cut to 'score' it, then went full depth on 2nd pass. Worked like a charm. Incidentally, on the other side, I did NOT cut a scoring cut and I got some tearout.....However, this was an experiment and was not cut to length on that pass, just wanted to see the amt of tearout it would generate.....

It works, make 2 cuts :)

JC