Tenon and Back Saws - Rip or Crosscut?

[David Weaver]

What do you guys prefer for dovetail saws and tenon saws?

I like japanese pull saws for dovetails, but I would still like to try a gents saw or a small tenon saw to cut them.

I haven't had a chance to cut any tenons by hand, but that's coming soon.

I would assume that the work would be nicer if there was little or no set to the teeth, but I don't know for sure.

Can you guys help me out? I will be sharpening and setting the saws if necessary, so I could may change some things within reason, but I'd rather start with the right thing.

What should I be getting?

[Eric Hartunian]

Here are my thoughts, I'm no expert, so YMMV...
I continue to use both Japanese saws and western. I would recommend trying both, but make sure of 2 things: first, give each an honest chance, and second, use a quality western saw. My opinion is that relatively cheap, machine made Japanese saws are pretty good. By contrast, cheap, modern western saws leave something to be desired. Either get an old backsaw of ebay or a tool dealer, learn to file (it isn't too hard), or get a quality new saw from one of the "boutique" dealers (ie, LN, Adria, Mike W., etc...).
If you are cutting tennons, rip teeth. Shoulders would be best with a crosscut. Also, finer teeth, with no set, isn't always the best option. You really need to consider the size work you will be doing. I would not want to cut really wide or deep tenons wth my dovetail saw. It will work, but will take forever.

Good luck,
Eric

[James Mittlefehldt]

For DovetailsI use a Pax dovetail saw I bought from Lee Valley, with a bunch of teeth per inch. It would cut tenons but as Eric says it takes forever. For tenons I use a steel backed twelve inch rip cut R. H. Smith back saw. (circa 1910) For cutting the shoulder lines I use another R. H. Smith backsaw only brass backed and twenty years older, roughly fourteen teeth per inch, filed crosscut.

If you have the patience and are in an area with lots of antique shops and such I would try and get older saws but if going new than again as Eric said quailty is pricey.

Perhaps though if you are used to Japanese saws the straight handle of a gent's saw might be the answer for you for dovetails, but not too good for tenons.

[harry strasil]

I use only western style saws, for dovetails a thin blade with very little set cuts fast as you are taking less material out, have a narrower kerf and thus there is less chance of wobbling in the kerf and getting off the line if you start it right that is.

The set on most of my saws is the thickness of a piece of copy paper to either side.

I have a really old straight handled dovetail saw that is approx 19 tpi about very thin blade, it acts like a razor blade on paper, if I put lots of pressure on the saw I can cut the full depth of the blade to the spine in one push stroke on pine.

I also file my rip teeth 90 degrees to the blade on the front side and with an approx 5 degree angle on the cutting edge.