Sanding and Finishing Steps

[Jonathan Harvey]

As it stands now I start with 60 Grit then move to 100, 150, 220 with a cleaning of DNA in between each grit. Should I be going to a finer grit as well or is it needed?

From this point what are my finishing options? I have used tung oil but that is about all I know. I see some bowls on here that almost have a mirror finish. I would love to know what my options are for finishing bowls.

any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks

[Mike Vickery]

If I was you I would go from 60 to 80 not 100 but it is close enough to the 50% jump rule that I am not sure it matters.

Is you want a high gloss on you finish I would say go to at least 400 but I recommend 600 or higher.

Pretty much any high quality finish can be used for your turnings so your options are wide open. Personally I keep it simple Watco Dansih oil and Miniwax Antique oil for most of my pieces.

For a high gloss finish I highly recommend a buffing system, they make a world of difference.

[Jonathan Harvey]

If I was you I would go from 60 to 80 not 100 but it is close enough to the 50% jump rule that I am not sure it matters.

Is you want a high gloss on you finish I would say go to at least 400 but I recommend 600 or higher.

Pretty much any high quality finish can be used for your turnings so your options are wide open. Personally I keep it simple Watco Dansih oil and Miniwax Antique oil for most of my pieces.

For a high gloss finish I highly recommend a buffing system, they make a world of difference.


The only thing I can find above 220 is automotive/steel. Does it matter?

[Paul Andrews]

There are a number of suppliers of sanding disks and paper designed for finishing wood. This supplier http://www.abrasivesasap.com/Woodturning/woodturning_catalogs/woodturning_catalog.htm
sells the blue sanding disks through 2000 grit. Klingspor sells a variety of disk and paper intended for woodturners and there are probably dozens more. Hope this helps.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jonathan,

There are a number of finishes that turners typically use. What are you finishing? How will it be used? How do you want to finish it?

There are finishes that can be applied on the lathe. These are typically referred to as "friction" finishes. Most are shellac based finishes that you wipe on......wait say 90 seconds and use a paper towel to smooth out and dry due to the friction of the project spinning and you applying pressure with a folded paper towel. Advantages...it's quick....when the project comes off the lathe it's finished except for maybe the smallest area on the bottom where the tenon was or if you are using a mortise..the mortise area. Most friction finishes are shellac based with wax included.....an example is Myland's Friction polish/ finish....there are a number of companies that produce them. I use this often on say a small projects that won't be handled a lot.

Other finishes are danish oil, antique oil, varnishes, dewaxed shellac, spraying lacquers and brushing laquers.

I actually have had good luck frictioning Deft brushing lacquer on the lathe.

Shellac and lacquers... when you apply multiple coats become one with the previous coats. In other words, multiple coats of shellac will build a thicker coat of shellac. Multiple coats of lacquer will build a thicker coat of lacquer. Varnishes however, will build multiple coats and you have to worry about sanding or buffing through the top coat. Lacquer is alcohol resistant...alcohol is the thinner for shellac....so I use lacquer on my bottle stoppers......Dewaxed shellac can be applied over any other finish and lacquer can be applied over dewaxed shellac....

The varnishes and oils I apply off the lathe and after the project is completely done. Recently I have become quite pleased with the results I've been getting with Miniwax antique oil. The more you apply, the higher the gloss....if that's the look you are looking for....

Good luck!

[Dennis Peacock]

Jonathan,

You have some very good info here and for sure some very good advice. I guess I'll toss in my 2¢ worth on the subject. ;)

You can mix up your "brew" of a finish if you would like. One that I've used and been satisfied with is equal parts of tung oil, mineral spirits, and gloss polyurethane. One bit of warning here.....this mixture will setup fairly quickly, so only mix a little at a time and use what you mix. It won't stay good in a container for very long at all before it starts to set up on you. DAMHIKT!!!

Dewaxed Shellac is a good base coat and can be topcoated with any other finish like lacquer, poly, and varnish to name a few.

Antique Oil is a type of a varnish blend and will build rather nicely on your turned pieces. One thing I do is apply a "thin" coat of tung or boiled linseed oil to "pop the grain" and then let that sit over night and then topcoat with my clearcoat of choice. Buffing will make a LOT of difference in your final appearance of your finish. If you don't have a buffing setup, then go to your local sewing center and purchase some standard "felt". It doesn't have a weave pattern to it and can be used to hand-buff your pieces to a nice luster/sheen.

Sanding....ah yes.....I usually start at 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600, and 800 grit. Believe it or not, there is a "noticable" difference in the look of your piece from 600 to 800 grit. Most of my sanding time is done at the lower grits and clean the piece between grits with compressed air or a damp rag wetted with mineral spirits or DNA. I've used a lot of automotive type sanding paper in the 600 to 2000 grit range. It works pretty good and works well if you keep the wood dampened with mineral spirits while sanding....a type of wet sanding if you will. The important thing about sanding? Is the removal of the previous scratch pattern in your wood before moving to the next grit.

Another key to a good sanding job is run the lathe at a very slow speed when sanding to help prevent heat build up during the sanding process. This can also be reduced by less pressure applied when sanding by hand with the piece spinning on the lathe. A lite touch of the sandpaper will allow the grit to do what its supposed to do and will aid in helping the sandpaper last a little longer during the sanding process. A lesson I learned the hard way is that "sanding with dull sandpaper only requires more sanding time and effort on your part".....so don't be afraid to use fresh sandpaper when a piece feels like it's not doing as well as it did a few minutes ealier.

Hope this helps instead of confusing you more. :D

[Jonathan Harvey]

Thank you all for your replies. I have a lot to learn about each individual finish. By the sounds of it I will learn a lot from just trial and error :)

In regards to finding these finishes, I know that I can buy a lot of the oils at my local hardware store but how about the Shellac and lacquers? Should I find them at the hardware store as well.

Looking forward to all my bowls drying so that I can get them back on the lathe and try some of this stuff out.

[joe greiner]

The only thing I can find above 220 is automotive/steel. Does it matter?

No. 220 is fine enough for sanding with the grain, but most sanding is cross-grain at one portion or another, whether turned in spindle mode or faceplate. That's where the higher grit is desirable. 400 and 600 fill almost immediately, so use fresh paper for each run. Above 600, some burnish with shavings held in hand, but a brown paper bag is equivalent to about 1200 IIRC, and less messy. A foam pad, e.g. Scotchbrite, is a convenient backup for the sandpaper or paper bag; just hold against the back of the paper. Use the lowest speed available for sanding; as high as you dare for burnishing, and stand nearest the headstock - not in the line of fire.

60 grit, and even 80, are pretty much shaping grits. With practice, you may be able to get a better surface from the tools alone, and eventually start at about 100.

Joe

[Jonathan Harvey]

some burnish with shavings held in hand, but a brown paper bag is equivalent to about 1200 IIRC, and less messy. A foam pad, e.g. Scotchbrite, is a convenient backup for the sandpaper or paper bag; just hold against the back of the paper. Use the lowest speed available for sanding; as high as you dare for burnishing, and stand nearest the headstock - not in the line of fire.

Joe

Could you please elaborate on burnishing? What is it, how is it done and what is it's purpose?

Thanks, Jonathan

[Dennis Peacock]

Could you please elaborate on burnishing? What is it, how is it done and what is it's purpose?

Thanks, Jonathan

Johathan,

Burnishing is done with "friction". As an experiment, put a piece of wodd between centers, turn it round, crank the speed up on the lathe to somewhere between 1,000 and 2,000 RPM, pick up some very fine wood dust from around the lathe and hold it to the spinning wood and keep it moving back and forth. The wood will surface will burnish and will have a smooth and shinny appearance. I've finished a lot of turned pens this way.
One word of caution though....make sure there's PLENTY of wood dust/shavings between your fingers and the spinning wood. That stuff gets HOT!!!!! :eek: DAMHIKT!!!!!! :o :D

[Jonathan Harvey]

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jonathan.........I buy Deft brushing lacquer and my waxed and dewaxed shellac at a local Ace Hardware store. They even ordered the Minwax Antique oil for me.

A word of caution...it will say on the can of DEWAXED shellac....100% dewaxed shellac.....The brand I use says it right on the logo on the front of the can.......regular shellac typically has waxes in it. Lacquer and other finishes don't like the waxed variety of shellac....