Installing the Biesemeyer 30 commercial fence

[John Gregory]

I got the fence package today from Lowes. They even honored a 10% discount from a Home Depot promotion. So the cost was $72.00 plus sales tax.

My table saw is a Ridgid TS2424. The stock fence has worked fine, but who could pass this Biesemeyer deal up? Some time ago I moved the stock fence 10" to the right so I have 14" to the left and 34" to the right. I seldom use my fence to the left of the blade.

My question, The Biesemeyer shows when installed 12" to the left and 30" to the right. Can this be changed and shifted more to the right? I would be happy if I could get an extra 4-6" to the right of the blade. Has anyone done this yet?

Thanks

[Jim O'Dell]

I've read that it can be done, might have to cut a notch in the mounting rail for the miter slot so there is no interference. Might be able to mount the notch for the left miter slot to line up with the right miter slot, and not have to cut anything. Best bet is to hold it up there (no easy task!!) and check. I want to mount it as far to the right as I can on my Rigid 3612. I never use anything to the left of the blade. All I need to do is verify that I can get the fence to the blade, or reasonably close anyway. Jim.

[Matt Meiser]

If you move the fence, you will need to purchase a new stick-on tape for the front tube.

My Bies. is the 30" model as well. On the rare occasion that I need to cut something slightly larger I use one of two methods.

First is to measure what I would need to cut from the other side minus the blade kerf to get a meausrement so that the offcut is the piece between the blade and fence. The other trick which give me 34" capacity is to set the fence to the setting I need minus the width of the fence, which for me is 4-1/16". Then I clamp a straight board to the table snug against the outside of the fence, remove the fence, and make my cut using the board as the fence.

[John Gregory]

Jim,
In the instructions they show holding the rails on with pipe clamps. I might be able to test the position doing that. Set it as the instructions show, then see if I move it to the right, what happens with the notches etc.

Thanks


I've read that it can be done, might have to cut a notch in the mounting rail for the miter slot so there is no interference. Might be able to mount the notch for the left miter slot to line up with the right miter slot, and not have to cut anything. Best bet is to hold it up there (no easy task!!) and check. I want to mount it as far to the right as I can on my Rigid 3612. I never use anything to the left of the blade. All I need to do is verify that I can get the fence to the blade, or reasonably close anyway. Jim.

[John Gregory]

Good suggestions Matt. It isn't often I need to cut something more than 30", but it does happen. I do have a very good straight edge and circ. saw for sheet goods


If you move the fence, you will need to purchase a new stick-on tape for the front tube.

My Bies. is the 30" model as well. On the rare occasion that I need to cut something slightly larger I use one of two methods.

First is to measure what I would need to cut from the other side minus the blade kerf to get a meausrement so that the offcut is the piece between the blade and fence. The other trick which give me 34" capacity is to set the fence to the setting I need minus the width of the fence, which for me is 4-1/16". Then I clamp a straight board to the table snug against the outside of the fence, remove the fence, and make my cut using the board as the fence.

[Gary Muto]

Maybe I should start looking at indtuctions before I start instead of after I fail....:confused:

[John Gregory]

Used to be.....I did not read the instructions first. But I learned from doing and redoing the same tasks.:mad: that the instructions are helpful


Maybe I should start looking at indtuctions before I start instead of after I fail....:confused:

[glenn bradley]

The rails can stay in the stock position. The front guide tube is moved to the right one set of holes. Add a new tape and pick up another 10" of capacity to the right. You will need a table top out there to support the fence glide.

Here's a cute idea to make your rule easier to read:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=55575&d=1169337075

[John Gregory]

Great idea Glenn. I will try it. 40" to the right would be perfect for me. More than that would be awkward in my size shop.




The rails can stay in the stock position. The front guide tube is moved to the right one set of holes. Add a new tape and pick up another 10" of capacity to the right. You will need a table top out there to support the fence glide.

Here's a cute idea to make your rule easier to read:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=55575&d=1169337075