How do I install this sink???

[Alex Elias]

I can't seem to find out how to attach this to the granite. There are no attachements on it. I figure caulk, or liquid nails, but if any of you have any better ideas I will really appreciate the help. As you can see there is not a whole lot of gluing surface on the edge itself since it comes like a dome so the portion resting on the granite is the thickness of the coper.
Here are the pictures.

Thanks in advance for the ideas.
Alex

This is what is supposed to look like when installed
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q185/alxe24/Sink-03.jpg

Here is a view from the bottom

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q185/alxe24/Sink-04.jpg

Here there are two pics of the sink out of the cabinet

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q185/alxe24/Sink-01.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q185/alxe24/Sink-02.jpg

[Owen Gregg]

How much of the lip will sit on top of the granite? I installed granite and sinks for years. We always used 100% silicone in self rimming and undermount sinks. On rare occasions when the cutout was just a bit wider than what it should have been, but still small enough that the lip would cover; we reinforced the silicone with chem clips under the top.

Edited to add:

The dome shape of the lip will actually help with your installation. It's gonna pull the silicone in instead of push it out like nearly all undermounts.

[Belinda Barfield]

Go with Owen's advice. Whatever you do, don't use Liquid Nails as it can cause permanent staining of the stone (especially with a light color as you have). I'm part owner in a granite and marble fabrication business.

[David Cramer]

Use caulk with "adhesive" in it. Then put a blanket or something on top of the sink that won't scratch the sink top (outer rim) and put a 2 by 4 or 2 by 8 with weight on top of it (a bucket of drywall mud or any bucket with weight it in works well). H.D. and Lowes both sell the almond/white/off white caulks, but if you look at the tube closely, the one you're looking for has "adhesive" on the outside.

Putting the weight on it is sometimes not even needed. It just depends on how well (flush) the sink sits on top of the counter. The caulk with adhesive has glue in it and will bond it to most countertop surfaces that I have faced in the past. The Peachtree Forge sinks from H.D. are mounted exactly the way I described above. The are a plastic type of sink with no mounting hardware. I don't really care for those sinks:mad: .

I'm sure you can guess what I do for a living:) . Well, one of the things anyways.

Dave

[David Cramer]

Owen and Belinda are also right. If I used silicone, I'd do the same thing with some weight on it and peel/trim away the excess silicone the next day. The colors that I described might not work with your sink, so doing the same thing with silicone is probably better. Sorry, I just thought I'd better add that.

Dave

[David G Baker]

Alex,
Use 100% silicone as has been suggested. You may also want to use the blue painters masking tape around the outside of the sink to keep as much silicone off of the counter in case it does shoot out.
In California I had a synthetic marble shower surround mounted professionally in my bathroom. The installer used silicone to adhere the marble to the walls. He said that it was required by code due to the earthquake potential. The older style adhesive would dry out and in case of a quake the surround could separate from the wall but the silicone remained flexible.
I have removed silicone fastened items, that stuff is strong but fairly easy to remove by cutting it and will adhere to most surfaces.

[Belinda Barfield]

Alex,

Sent you a PM to share a trick of the trade. Hope it helps!

[Mitchell Andrus]

Silicone will hold your car up on the ceiling.

[Alex Elias]

Well seems like silicone is going to adhere the job. Thanks you all for your imputs.
I'll show pics when finish

[Owen Gregg]

Alex, Weight is sometimes needed to hold the sink down, but I often found that I did not need it. Even pressure with your hands should do the trick.

I'd be leary of weighting that particular sink on top because of the height of the outer lip and what appears to be an antique copper finish. Dings in the finish show up like a brand new penny. The only thing worse is actually putting impressions on the lip of the sink because the weight was too heavy or the metal was a lighter gauge than what was expected.

Belinda may have already told you this in her PM, but I'll share a couple things that may help you.

When you do get ready to silicone it, have a roll of clean paper towels and a bottle of rubbing alcohol. Test the rubbing alcohol on a spot under the sink to be sure it won't mar the finish on the sink.

After you've cleaned the gluing surfaces and let them dry, apply the silicone and install your sink. Immediately look for squeeze-out from the silicone and wipe it off with a clean paper towel. You will need to change paper towels often to ensure your not just smearing it around and creating a bigger and faster drying mess. When everything looks clean, soak a little bit of a paper towel in the alcohol and give the perimeter a final wipe down.

It's MUCH easier to clean up silicone while it's "liquid". Some sink installs look seamless because people knew what they were doing in the application and cleanup process. Others look less fantastic because installers have allowed the silicone to skin over, and that makes a new sink install look 5-10 years old immediately. It's crappy and shouldn't happen, but does. The worse part is being called to redo it. Dried silicone is tough stuff to get rid of on any sink, let alone a sink with that particular finish.

Best of luck.

[Mitchell Andrus]

I agree with Owen, and.... don't apply any weight because when the weight is removed rebound may occur and stress the part of the gap that needed the clamping pressure.

[David G Baker]

Owen,
I have been using rubbing alcohol for years but I put it in a small spray bottle. I run a bead of silicone, spray it with alcohol, smooth the bead with my finger and wipe the excess with paper towel. I also am a firm believer in masking tape. If there is any alcohol on areas that have not been siliconed yet, it must be dry prior to adding the silicone or it won't adhere. This doesn't apply to Alex's situation but may help others.

[Phil Thien]

Clamp it. Drill a hole large enough for the drain stem and long enough to span the sink. Cut two pieces of wood as long as the sink protrudes beneath the surface, and screw one on each side of the first piece. Now place the contraption over the drain and use a nut to pull the sink into the opening.

Kinda hard to explain. I wouldn't tighten it a lot. Just enough to keep the sink from lifting up.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Well seems like silicone is going to adhere the job. Thanks you all for your imputs.
I'll show pics when finish

Does that mean it's too late to suggest 10 penny nails?