Now the stupidest question ever

[Brian Brown]

I have sharpened my tools to the best edge I can get, and I am still getting some tearout in endgrain, even when shearscraping. So my question is, How do I know if my tools are really sharp? They are sharp enough to cut skin with little pressure, but are they sharp enough? Is there a test? Thanks for the help.

Brian

[George Guadiane]

I have sharpened my tools to the best edge I can get, and I am still getting some tearout in endgrain, even when shearscraping. So my question is, How do I know if my tools are really sharp? They are sharp enough to cut skin with little pressure, but are they sharp enough? Is there a test? Thanks for the help.

Brian
You might consider having a "play date" with a more experienced turner. Often, the tools can be plenty sharp, but if you are not presenting them to the wood properly, you won't get the advantage of that edge...
I had a problem with my fingernail grind gouges a while ago, and had to go for help. Took a few minutes of observation and, now, back to "normal."

[Christopher K. Hartley]

I have sharpened my tools to the best edge I can get, and I am still getting some tearout in endgrain, even when shearscraping. So my question is, How do I know if my tools are really sharp? They are sharp enough to cut skin with little pressure, but are they sharp enough? Is there a test? Thanks for the help.

BrianBrian, first off there is only one "Stupid Question", it's the one that doesn't get asked!:eek: No expert here but if it will slice the edge of a sheet of typing paper it is probably sharp enough. Tearout, however can happen even with sharp tools. When I have that problem now, I find the tearout is usually pretty small. Elm is a classic example of a wood that I have found to be bad about it. Try soaking the area in mineral spirits. Wait about five minutes and then using your sharp scraper go over it again very lightly. Your scraper blade will pick up some of the mineral spirits that has soaked into the wood and you should see a smooth surface after the cut. It works wonders for me anyway.:)

[Richard Madison]

Brian,
Assume you are making the lightest possible cuts when shear scraping. You should be getting very thin, feathery shavings. May take several passes to clean up previously rough areas. Would be willing to bet that you already knew this. Never mind.

[Martin Braun]

If the tool is fairly sharp, then it's likely a question of grain orientation, and/or the structure of the wood (punky vs firm). Are you spindle turning? If so, is the grain running off parallel resulting in alternating grain direction? Or does the wood have a lot of wavy grain in it? Sometimes if the grain is fine, but the wood is punky then it will just need to be stabilized to get a clean cut. Sanding sealer, wood stabilizer, etc. might help. This is what makes woodturning fun.

[Kevin McPeek]

I know this is going to sound weird, at least it did to me, but what worked for me was to spray a little water (from spray bottle) and cut or scrape right away. I would give it 4 or 5 squirts while the bowl was turning on the lathe and go directly to the tool. Worked great.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I do the same thing as Kevin does. I spritz it with water and then immediately go after it. One thing I have found is on bowls anyway I do like Mike Mahoney does and use a conventional grind gouge for the final couple of cuts. I got a 3/8" and 1/2" P & N bowl gouge with a conventional grind. These do not have the irish, ellsworth, etc. grind on them and seem to do the trick most times. If water doesn't work I put a little mineral oil or walnut oil on the tear out and go right in for the final few very very light cuts. Seems to work.