Roofing question

[Jim O'Dell]

I'm going to redo the other leaky side of the shop starting tomorrow morning. Because of the uneven depth from eave to ridge of the 2 sides that form the valley, how do I integrate/weave the shingles? One side has 21 rows from eave to ridge, the other has 29 rows. The tops of the 2 ridges are the same height, which means the pitch between the 2 sides is different. (main building is 20 X 24, the porch that was added on is 12 X 14. See post 14 here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=14427&highlight=coolmeadow+creations for a floor plan to make this easier to understand.)
Do I do an extra row every 4th row on the side that has 29? Or do I just match the spacing as I weave the valley and one side ends up with a shorter spacing between the shingles? I need to see how I did the other side as I'm sure it had the same problem, but since the gable end of the main shop ended with that edge starting at the bottom of the valley, it my not have posed as much of an optical problem as this side does. Thanks for any insight you can offer. Jim.

[Chris Rosenberger]

What type of shingles are you using?

[Wes Bischel]

Jim,
I know weaving vs. flashing is a long standing argument as to which is better, but in this case, wouldn't it be easier to go with flashing and ice shield? I say this in part because my default has always been flashing - that's how our current dormers are done.

Just a thought,
Wes

[Jim O'Dell]

Chris, standard 3 tab shingles.

Wes, we don't do the ice dam down here. On the other side, I put down flashing, then did the weave with the felt and shingles. I had the flashing left from another project. It was my last piece. I'm using 30# felt, and I'll double that as the valley flashing, then weave the horizontal felt and shingles. This is how the shop and house already were done (weaving) so when I did the first side, I wanted it to match this side, because this side was not leaking at the time!!! Didn't think I'd have to do both. In retrospect, I imagine all the running around on the roof I did doing the first side created this second problem. Believe me, I won't go near the first side if at all possible!!:D Jim.

[David Duke]

Jim, I'm not a roofer butr have nailed down my share of shingles. As far as the weave I would say that since your putting down 3 tab whatever you do is going to be noticible, I would lay them out both ways and determine which would look the best.

Your're probably right about causing the leaks while redoing the other side, I always try and stay as far away from the valleys as possible.

[Chris Rosenberger]

Jim I quit doing the weave on roofing many years ago. A friend taught me a new way (new to me) to do a valley. I like it alot better. You roof one side of the valley at a time. I put 24" coil stock in the valley before I start roofing. This is insurance against someone stepping in the valley & punching a hole through the shingles.
On the first side, I lay the roofing & let it run about 18" past the valley center & onto the unroofed side. Do not cut the shingles in a straight line on that side of the valley. Just let them end randomly & do not nail within 12" of eather side of the valley center. After the first side is roofed, chalk a line 3" off center on the unroofed side of the valley. Now roof the other side & cut the shingles to the chalk line.
I am attaching a picture of my shop valley. I hope this is helpful.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Flashing is always best if you can get copper or lead in a nice thick gauge.

However - - - The modern Aluminum flashing I have purchased and seen on job sites is in my opinion mostly garbage. It's too thin. I have had the stuff fail from acid rain in less than 5 years.

[Eric Brenneman]

PM me and I might be able to explain how to do it.