blade opinions wanted...

[nick brigg]

about to buy a table saw blade/blades...should i buy the freud fusion for ripping and crosscutting or get a dedicated rip and dedicated crosscut blade? are there any limitations for a "do it all" kinda blade, such as not having a flat bottomed cut? i think i may have already answered my own question but any opinions are welcomed!

[David DeCristoforo]

As with any "do it all" tool, "combination" blades will do everything but not as well as single purpose blades. I would suggest a "set" of three blades, a combination blade for general use, a ripping blade for....well...ripping (when you need to do a lot) and a really good crosscut blade for those fine "glass smooth, chip free" cuts. If you can only afford two blades, forget the combo. If you can only afford one, forget the other two....

[Bill Huber]

I have a Forest I and Freud Diablo and for my saw the Diablo really does a lot better, it is a thin kerf and that helps with my under powered saw.

The Forest I really make a very nice cut and it is just a little smoother then the Diablo but the Diablo really cut very smooth, crosscut and rip.

I am waiting to get a Premier Fusion when they come out this fall with the 8 inch model.

So I think you would be very happy with teh Fusion.

[Jim Nardi]

It's written on quite a few blades that they are designed for 1" stock. I've always owned a rip blade with very few teeth for ripping thick stock.

[scott spencer]

Choosing separates or a general purpose blade is really a matter of preference that we each need to decide on, and can be influenced by what we cut. I find that a top quality general purpose blade will leave a suitably clean edge in hardwoods and most sheetgoods, so I'll use one for over 90% of the tasks. If I do change blades, it's likely to be for a 24T dedicated ripper that is simply more efficient for thick stock and easier on my saw. I own a good Leitz 80T crosscut blade that I rarely use or need.

If the quality level is comparable, the dedicated blades will do a better job of their specific tasks, but they have very limited capability outside of their range. Also note that a bulk ripper for thick stock will typically leave a rougher cut. If the quality of the dedicated blades isn't top notch, then blades like the WWII (http://www.epinions.com/content_145552674436), Infinity Combomax (http://www.epinions.com/content_380232306308), Ridge Carbide TS2000, Tenryu Gold Medal, etc., will outperform the dedicated blades in their dedicated cutting ranges, and will offer terrific versatility in addition. The benefit of the general purpose blade is that it doesn't need to be changed very often. If you think you'd prefer to try just one blade, I'd strongly suggest a 30T Forrest WWII (http://www.epinions.com/content_384567447172).

Since it's likely that you'll want a general purpose blade around anyway, I'd suggest getting one plus a bulk ripper and see if you think you need a cleaner cut, then you can add something like an 80T Hi-ATB blade like a Forrest Duraline or Freud LU80R010.


As the saw blade turns (http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=61724&highlight=blade+turns)

[Jamie Baalmann]

The 40T WW II are on sale on the zon right now, oh and you may consider thin kerf or full kerf depending on your table saw power

[nick brigg]

wow thanks guys! i think a combo blade and a flat ground ripper is what ill get, the combo for pretty much everything and the ripper for tenons and grooves(i dont have a dado set nor do i plan on getting one).

[Gary Keedwell]

I would say that is a good combination. (pun intended). ;)

Gary K.

[nick brigg]

Gary! i rolled my eyes so hard they're bleeding! that was AWFUL!

[glenn bradley]

I'm a little late but I agree with what others have said. Combo blades are leaps and bound above what they used to be but cannot compare to dedicated function blades. As always, what you are going to do is going to drive your choice.

I have several blades but primarily run an 80 tooth crosscut and a 24 tooth rip. I've got a couple of 40 tooth combos that do a very nice job but I wouldn't want to build a dresser with them.

I don't look at it as an 'extra' $50 blade or an extra $100 blade; I look at it as a $50 piece of wood that is going to come out like I want it to over and over again. You don't have to run back to the lumberyard for another few board feet of walnut to make the cost of an 'extra' blade pay off.

If I had to limit myself to two blades I would keep my 80 tooth Freud and my 24 tooth Lietz. All my blades are thin kerf and perform well on my 1 3/4HP saw. I used the same blades on my previous 1HP contractor saw with very good results.

[David Tiell]

then you can add something like an 80T Hi-ATB blade like a Forrest Duraline or Freud LU80R010.
Not to hijack here, but can someone tell me the difference between the Forrest Duraline and the Forrest MiterMaster blades? I see the MiterMaster blades are almost double the price of the Duralines.

Thanks,

Dave